Topic: Replace Spark Plug Wires
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Very nice. I like new stuff. It use to be that all th contacts in the distributor cap were copper but not anymore. A good cap, rotor, and wires make everything better.
Brian - NCM Lifetime Member
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Question on running the spark plug wires:
If they are run parallel for a relatively long distance like suncountry's, is there a risk of the voltage jumping to the adjacent wire and firing the wrong cylinder?
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Mounds View, MN - USA
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That's the way the factory did it with no problem. If you have a higher voltage ignition system, there is a greater chance of that inductive firing, but not with a factory system.
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I was wondering about the same thing I've seen a lot of pictures of the wires being wrapped or twisted around one another and I thought that was a no no. I was always under the impression you couldn't randomly cross the plug wires or you would get crosstalk from the other wires going on.
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Moses Lake, WA - USA
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[QUOTE=dwright]Question on running the spark plug wires:
If they are run parallel for a relatively long distance like suncountry's, is there a risk of the voltage jumping to the adjacent wire and firing the wrong cylinder?
[/QUOTE]
Dave
I will let you know if I have a cross firing issues once I am up and running. Didn't think it would be an issue as the factory ran all 4 plug wires right next to one another down under the block. But you never know
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The only wires you really need to watch for are #s 5 & 7...you don't want them running next to each other anywhere in the run. These two plugs fire one right after the other, and are the cylinders that are next to each other. If these two wires run close enough, they will cross-fire. You should always separate these two wires with another wire in between them. If you look closely at any factory plug routing(on mouse engines), you'll see they were run like that...always with another wire in between them. It don't always look good, cosmetically, but the benefits outweigh the cosmetics. 
Joel Adams
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Moses Lake, WA - USA
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Vette(s): 1976 L48 4-spd, Mahogany Metalic exterior, Buckskin interior 350ci/350hp, 3rd owner, fiberglass spring, 255/50-16's Torq-Thrust II
Thanks for the tip Joel
, I moved the #5 plug wire in the clamp by the dist which leaves only a couple of inches where #5 & #7 run parallel. If I was to get an induced spark, does it show up under load or at idle?
, I moved the #5 plug wire in the clamp by the dist which leaves only a couple of inches where #5 & #7 run parallel. If I was to get an induced spark, does it show up under load or at idle?Former Member
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Mounds View, MN - USA
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Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
The induced voltage has to jump the spark plug gap, and that is easiest under the least load, so you would most likely see it at idle or during higher RPM deceleration.
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[QUOTE=suncountry]Here is what I am doing
[/QUOTE]
That looks awesome! I dont like the look of my wires running all over the hood, mind telling me what setup you have for the brackets and what wires you got to run them like that?
Thanks!
in Forum: C3 Engines
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