here is a spreadsheet that summarizes the acuracy of desktop dyno when compared to the real dyno results aftershark reported..

the average variance is roughly 2%

http://www.direclynx.net/~cthulhu/corvette/misc/CompareRealvsDesktop.xls

Cool. I was talking to the builder of this engine, because they are doing some further product testing for us and he said that the engine has broken in further and is now making 425HP and slightly more torque.

Very cool.

I was looking at the chart. Not sure why they dyno software shows it going to 8000, the 30142 cam is not designed to make power past 5800 to 6000, starting to pull hard at 2800.

The O7104 in the SysteMAX II kit is designed to make power from 1600 to 6000.

I don't have the seat to seat specs, those are only contained on the cam card. I guess if I had the time I could obtain that info through Lunati Tech.

After Shark said: I was looking at the chart. Not sure why they dyno software shows it going to 8000, the 30142 cam is not designed to make power past 5800 to 6000, starting to pull hard at 2800.

I used the seat to seat specs from the 07104 on the 30142 to get me in the ballpark..

to calculate lifter ramp rate it needs both settings.

this may be throwing it off

with the full specs and your new results i could re compute this and see if it gets closer to what you expect.

After Shark, thanks all the information. I've been all over the map with engine choices, from BB to crate to you name it. Your suggestions and approach are by far the most cost effective way to build reliability into a high street hp/tq engine. I was seriously contemplating a 430HP/425tq crate from the engine factory. College tuition bill for my two kids caused me to rethink a $5K spend. With your approach I can spread the cost over time and end up with someting that is rewarding to accomplish. Would you suggest that when ordering a short block I upgrade to hypereutectic pistons?

Its a toss up. A hyperuetectic piston has a higher silicon content and has to be forged. Therefore they are a more durable piece. You also have the option of using a full floating wrist pin. The price difference between cast and the hyper's is minimal.

So the question is will it make the engine last any longer, well thats hard to say. Look at how many small block chevy's are out there now and how many miles they have on them with no failures. Those are cast pistons. If you think about it the only time a piston gets damaged is if it drops a valve, jumps time, or gets too hot (usually from pre-detonation). I'm sure there are other times they get damaged, but these are the most common.

I recently caught word that TRW is about to release a new line of forged pistons that is going to be super affordable. I have no other details, just rumors.

So would I spend the money? Depends on my plans. I have another 355 going together that has forged 2618 aluminum alloy pistons in it. I chose those pistons cause this engine is going to have nitrous on it. If money is an issue I wouldn't worry about it. If you have an extra $150 laying around (thats all it should cost) to upgrade to the better pistons then do so. Either way it doesn't cost big money to a good high performance street engine only matching up the right parts.

Many thanks for your advice. I'll post more about the rebuild sometime in late fall or early winter.

We bought our new engine from A&R Racing in Sumerduck VA.
(350/400 SB)

Here are the specs...

400 hp @ 5600 RPM 400 ft lbs torque 5200 RPM
All new internals
Professionally prepared block

Machine Work

Select Hi Tin block 2 bolt main machined 030
Align bore &/or check for run out, full race clearancing
Mag-Check pressure check
Hot Tank - Jet Wash
Bore Torque plate Hone
Clearance block - casting flash only
Shotpeen rods
Dynamic balance assembly
File fit rings - blueprint clearance
Press - pistons to rods
Install cam bearings & freeze plugs
Port blueprint cylinder heads
Final assemble full rotating & top end
Parts including final torque clearance & geometry of all parts

Performance Internal Parts (All New)

Keith black hyperutectic pistons 10.3 to 1 piston set (Pump Gas o.k.)
Nodular race prepared crank with superior wear sized & indexed
Childs & Albert - zz gapdura moly file fit rings
Durabond cam bearings
GM pink forged steel rods
ARP wavelock rod bolts
Clevite bearings tri metal 77 rod & main
Comp cams custom high output cam lifter set
Cloyes true roller set
Comp cams cam locks
Comp cams xe chrome moly pushrods
Dyna Gear racing oil pump
Dyna Gear pickup
ARP steel drive
After market oil pan baffled 5qt
After market timing cover
Pioneer/ARP head bolts
ARP rocker studs 3/8
Fel Pro blue gasket sets

Power Making Featured Parts

Dart Iron Eagle heads with revised combustion chambers
severe duty 1.924/1.60 valves plus 1.25 springs
7 degree super locks Comp cam parts... good porting... 3/8
Hi Performance longslot rockers 1.6 ratio
Comp cams custom series - muscle car cam
110 center line, 488 - 490 lift corrected 1.6 ratio = 520/522 lift 226/228 dur @ 050
2000 stall

Anybody know of where I can get a good short block in NJ or PA?

I would call a couple places that do auto repairs and ask them where they get their replacement engines or short blocks. I would check the yellow pages.

Shipping short blocks is not that expensive if you decide to go out of state. I think they average 100 to 150 on the ones I've had shipped.