I found out why my 454 had oily plugs. Rockers out of adjustment. One pushrod was broke, the other on the same cylinder was not even in the rocker. I replaced all the pushrods, now I need to figure out how to adjust them properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I put it all back together and started it up, and the clicking was too much. I shut it off immediately as I must not have adjusted them correctly. I read something about the distributor being on number one cylinder fire, but I'm not quite positive. Could improper rocker adjustment also leave oil deposits?? Thanks as always guys.

blackbigblock said: I found out why my 454 had oily plugs. Rockers out of adjustment. One pushrod was broke, the other on the same cylinder was not even in the rocker.

first and foremost..

does the 454 have pushrod guide plates or does it use slots in the head ?

if it uses slots in the head they may be worn round and it will jump pushrods and bend as many rods as you put in if that is the case. the solution ot this is to install guideplates.

if you have guide plates and your valves arent stuck.. then you can adjust one of two ways.. statically which is tedious but easy and dymnamically which is more accurate but messy.

this is for hydraulic (more common) if you need solid.. tell me.

static

loosen all rockers... turn each cylinder to TDC and do the following..

tighten nut until there is tension spinning the pushrod then tighten one full turn

dymnamic..

tighten all rockers

start car with valve cover off..

one by one do the following

back off the nut until the rocker rattles (you cant miss it) then tighten one half turn

go through all sixteen valves and optionally do it a second time

this will get you setup

|UPDATED|7/26/2004 12:39:34 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

You can do the same without the engine running. Bring number 1 to TDC and you can set the hydraulic lifters by very carefully turning the rocker nut until you have zero lash in the push rod. Then go the extra 1/2 turn. With new lifters go 1 full turn. You can actually do 1/2 of the the lifters in the engine, turn the engine 1 turn, and do the other half.
But let me caution you. Getting to zero lash is a very touchy adjustment. If you don't have a good feel, do it with the car running as Ben suggested.

And yes, see why they bent. Are the guides worn? Was the engine overrevved? You don't want a repeat performance.

kstyer said: You can do the same without the engine running. Bring number 1 to TDC and you can set the hydraulic lifters by very carefully turning the rocker nut until you have zero lash in the push rod. Then go the extra 1/2 turn.

thats the first method i decribed.. the second method is much easier if you have a junk set of valve covers to cut slots into .. this makes it alot less messy.

You can also get "rocker stoppers" There are several different kinds from different tool suppliers. They clip over the rocker and stop oil from splashing while making the adjustments. Oil is deflected and just drips straight down and draing back in the engine. Very easy to use.

If you use the clip-on "rocker stoppers".....resist the temptation to blip the throttle just to see how it runs after adjusting the valves. The clips will stay on at idle....but not much higher....

I attempted the static adjustment on my small block but got them too tight and the valves didnt shut all the way. Ben told me about the dynamic and I thought it was alot easier to do and fixed my problem. Just make sure your engine is cold while you do this because hot oil hurts like a B**CH! or the holes in old valve covers sounds like a better idea. I didnt have any to cut up.

Tumarr said: Ben told me about the dynamic and I thought it was alot easier to do and fixed my problem.

my grandfather (auto mechanic) swore by this method....

in my personal experience.. ive never set the valves statically without going back and doing while running and seeing an improvement.

might just be my mind playing tricks on me.. but I prefer the messy method..

Martin72 said: If you use the clip-on "rocker stoppers".....resist the temptation to blip the throttle just to see how it runs after adjusting the valves. The clips will stay on at idle....but not much higher....

6.99 for a set of 16

http://www.bobstools.net/Store/LS35500.html

I like the static method. Much neater. I have the valve cover sealed before starting the engine. I also have the timing within about 2 degrees. Much easier to start the car when everything is right.

BUT, I have been at it a long time, and it is tricky. Very easy to screw up. Most people do the first few times. If you don't have a very touchy feel, do the running method.