hi everyone,
does anybody know the best way to remove rusty bolts from the engine?
i bought a complete 1972 454 that has been sitting in a garage for 7 years. it ran fine before it was taken out of the car.
i need to disasemble it , and i already snapped one head off a bolt that holds on the alternator bracket. i am especially worried about taking the exaust manifolds off. they look really rusted in. also concerned about the intake manifold bolts.
whats best to do? squirt them with penetrating oil?, heat them up?
any info is appreciated.
thanks,
joe

Soak 'em all down with WD-40, Zep45, etc, and let it sit for a day or so, and keep them soaked. On the bolts you can get to, take a solid steel shaft of some sort, or a really large pin-punch, and with an equally large hammer(bone displacement tool )whack the heck out of the bolt heads, straight on. This almost always loosens them up.
Also...invest in a good set of drill bits...you may need to drill a few out if you wind up twisting a few bolts off. Adams' Apple2006-11-17 21:39:33

hey, thanks!
i would never have thought of hitting them straight on. i have been soaking them, but i want to make sure. i've never used zep45, where do you get it? is it better than wd40? the engine is on an engine stand, so it's pretty easy to get to.
thanks again,
joe

ZEP45 is great stuff. I don't know if it's available at parts store or not...I get if from my supplier at the shop.
There is a good penetrant also available from your local GM dealer. I can't recall the part #, but it is used for freeing up stuck heat riser valves in the exhaust...

If a Liquid wrench/wd-40/zep45 and a hammer smack or three doesn't work you might try heat. Just use a propane torch and heat up the bolt head then use beeswax on it. It will soak in and loosen up a stuck bolt. An old mechanics trick.If that doesn't work then go to higher heat with a acetalene torch. Get the bolt head cherry red hot then let cool. Come back in 15-25 min and bolt will easly comeout unless it is galled. (I usually go to this step when I have a stuck bolt). When wrenching out the bolt work it back and forth as you bring it out so debris will not load up in thread area. A shot of penatrant will ease the withdraw. This works for me. Adam is also correct in getting drills for broken bolts.You might need a set of easy outs too.They are used to get out broken bolts. Don't get to heavy handed with the easyouts cause if you break them off in the hole then you do have a problem.Do yourself a favor and ask for left handed drills and some center drills.The c-drills will help with starting the drill. You might have to special order the left handed drills but they will help removing a bolt.Sometimes the left handed action will drive out a bolt that is not too terribly tight. Remember when taking out a stuck bolt, if it doesn't come out with elevated pressure then stop! Don't think by overpowering the bolt it will come out. Work it back and forth when it starts to get stuck.Use a lot of penetrant.The smaller the size bolt the easier it is to snap. Belive me I've been there ,done that.
Hope this helps

PB Blaster has worked phenominally for me in every instance... Exhaust manifolds should be the most challenging. Adam's procedure is the real deal!

guys,
thanks !!
you all are such a great help. sounds like CUSTUM76 has had a few rusted bolts in his lifetime !!! lol
any idea you carrys pb blaster ?? advanced auto?, auto zone ?
thanks again ,
joe

i just saw that advanced auto carries pb blaster.
i'll pick up some tomarrow.
thanks
joe

I use Hoppe's #9 Gun Solvent. It really soaks in and cuts rust..

PB Blaster is the best I have used so far. Let it soak over night and I have have always had good success. The hitting the heads straight on also works great when you can get a good shot at it. Good luck.