Paul, do your heads have screw in studs for the rockers arms?
Were the heads machined for larger valves/springs?
Does the anti-freeze you see look like it has mixed with the engine oil at all(milky-ish), or is it straight green(or whatever color you used)?
How much a-f is it? Just a small puddle, or quite a bit?

I have seen a couple of instances where the screw-in studs for rocker arms penetrated into the water jackets of the heads.
It's hard to say where the AF is coming from, if it hasn't mixed with the oil(yet), but is just running on top the head. It's possible it's wicking up from the head bolts/studs, but....
So now it won't even start????
I'd suggest pulling all of the plugs, and checking for water/anti-freeze in any of the cylinders, then do a compression test.
Also, depending on the carb, a backfire thru it could blow gaskets, or other components(power valves on Holleys) that would make it difficult to start, but shouldn't keep it from starting eventually.
Check the dist. to see if it has twisted around. That could cause a bf and a no start. Also check to see if the rotor is turning when you crank it. Just because the cam is turning doesn't mean the dist gear is...if it ain't you got no oil pressure, either.
It's possible your ignition system took a doo-doo, to. Check for fire at the plugs.
Hope it's something simple...


also...if you're running a roller cam, you must use a bronze distributor gear. If you don't, and you use a "normal" iron dist. gear, it will destroy the dist. gear, and the cam gear, in a very short time...I hope this isn't what happened, but, just for info, and future reference...Adams' Apple2009-02-08 08:05:45

I'm going to attempt a compression test this morining. I know I have fuel and spark. Very odd that the dist seemed to no longer be in alignment with the #1 at TDC. But the pointer on the balancer in relation to the valves seems to be in the right relation. Could a brand new timing chain jump a tooth from a burp out of the carb?

that rots paul. hope it is something simple that can be fixed quick. it's a pain waiting so long for the engine and then having something like this happen. hope everything works out. dave

Joel,

IF the AF is wicking up from the head studs, I'd recommend they be pulled, and sealed at the source...where they thread into the head. I know that ain't exactly the easiest thing to do, but....what are the consequences of NOT fixing the leakage?
The af may also be coming from the head gasket directly close to the head studs, and blowing up into the top head. You can have a head gasket leak, and it NOT mix with the oil...it all depends on where it is leaking.
This is gonna be one of them thar head-scratchers(no pun intended), as far as the AF situation. It could be that it had a small leak at first, then it has sealed itself, and what you see is simply residual. If it is just a small puddle, not getting larger, and is not mixing wid da erl(dang you Tux...), you may be fine on that.

It would be hard to believe that a new timing chain had jumped, but...it could happen. Was the block align-honed?

OK - compression check is great on all cylinders. Block was align honed.

[QUOTE=LukesVette]OK - compression check is great on all cylinders. Block was align honed. [/QUOTE] Paul, first...words cannot express how bad I feel for you. When a guy's car isn't running right....he is truly not feeling right. (People who know me can tell by my demeanor if my car's ok or not)....So to the point, you can try the Bar's Stop Leak, if you want..........but I would really go down to the source. I would remove the head and stud. Think about it. Keep us informed, and best of luck to you. corvette440hp2009-02-08 09:26:56

I assume the head has to be taken off to do this? If that's the case, Might as well redo all tyhe studs to be safe...

[QUOTE=LukesVette]I assume the head has to be taken off to do this? If that's the case, Might as well redo all tyhe studs to be safe...[/QUOTE] Paul, now you are thinking on the right path.........

Good news. Set the timing at the damper at 14 degrees advanced and turned the dist so the rotor was pointing right at #1. Changed the oil, primed the oil filter, primed the carb,