Okay every one got me a question, had the lube and oil done today at the local chevy dealership and in thier inspection they found that I had a small intake leak. 

I was looking over the shop manual and such and to be honest with you all this looks a little over my head to tackle myself unknowledgeable self.

Is this a tough thing to do for someone with NO EXPERIENCE, looks like you have toremove alot of important crap that if I screw it up the car won't be going any where for a long time.

Would really like some honest feed back.  Thanks guys.

 Larry, Any mechanical repair to some one with no experiance is intimidating. My first attempt was a 283" that I had bored to a 302". I built the engine with virtually no help, had 3-2barrel carbs and an aftermarket ignition, as well as being cammed up some what. I spent a lot of time reading a Motor's manual, they didn't have specific books like they do today, as in building a small block, big block ect. It ran well, the only problem I encountered was getting the distributor in correctally. That is the only thing that some one with no experiance may have trouble with. The rest is just unbolt, clean, check surfaces, bolt back together and time it. Granted, you need some specialized stuff, like a timing lite, and I torque my intake bolts, so a torque wrench is necessary. But, I believe that with some tools, a good referance book and a little patience, any one could do the work. If I was closer, I would come and look over your shoulder while YOU do the work and learn. Drivin them is fun, but workin on em and drivin em yersef is more satisfying. My .02, oh yeah, I was 18 at the time, but that was 2 centuarys agoPumps38402.6805208333

I replaced the intake on my '78 with very little experience doing such things. It wasn't tough, but you need to be careful. Make sure you have the proper tools handy and follow a good manual.

What I did when disconecting all the hookup's and vacuum lines was to tag each and every one where it went. You don't want to guess when hooking everything back up. Taking some photos before starting is a help as well.

It is also a good time to decide if you want to make any changes while under the hood. If you're not concerned about complete originality, you can do as I did and install a modern intake manifold and remove the EGR and associated parts (the AIR pump was missing when I bought the car). It made for a cleaner appearance under the hood and a better running car.

It's really not difficult. If someone with as many thumbs as I do can do it successfully, anyone can.

Make sure you mark on the outside of the distributer where the rotor is pointing,and do not crank the engine over,and it will slide right back into place when you put it back in.make sure the front and rear seals that go across the block are solidly set and they dont slide off when you set the manifold down.look down in the ports of the heads and make sure none of the old gaskets dropped down in the heads.it should be a piece of cake

Its not tough if you have done it before, its also not tough if you have a friend who has done it before to help you along, the important part is not to drop anthing down into the valley or pan or intake ports, the end seals might be a little tricky, should use sillycone, and of coarse the dreaded distributor,but with a buddy who's done it before its a piece of cake,really don't need special tools,a good set of combo wrench's, socket set, tubing wrench's,scraper,knife,screw drivers, rubber hammer,newspaper masking tape, paper towels,you can get a torque wrench if you want,but some times you can't get to all the bolts, you can torque to 25lbs with a box end wrench,OR pay the dealer I'am guessing maybe $700+ to do it, if you do it by yourself, take your time, don't force anything, ask questons here from your familey at C3VR anips38403.7734143519

I think you're in pretty good company here, We've all had our first times at engine work. When I did my first intake swap, I didn't have this bunch to ask for help. It got done and ran trouble free.

Take the plunge brother! You'll have all the help you need right here!

Well thank you each and every one for the words of wisdom.  Here is the thought so far----  I figure total cost for everything estimated at $50.00 dollars compared to four or five hours of labor at the local shop @ $60.00 an hour equals Low estimate total cost $500.00.  The savings would more than cover my cost of the lifetime membership here, and I joined here to learn, nervous and scared sh**less but I am going to do this job myself.

Not whining here but I really don't know or hang out with anyone so I am going to be flying solo, except for my "brothers from another mother".  I have wireless internet here so I think the laptop with work out in the garage to send out any 911 calls.

I do have a few questions (starting already):

can any one give be a list of common parts that I will need to get from parts store beside the main intake gasket?  What is the best sealer to use?  Will I have to replace any gaskets under the thermostat housing? Carb?  If I am correct the engine has been fitted with alum. heads and intake manifold ( have the orginals box up that came with the vette) I am running the orginal hooley carb, the carb and manifold do not match up for a choke system, carb won't take electric and manifold won't take the stem type choke ( from what I was explained ) could I install the old manifold on to the alum heads or is that a stupid question, I would really like to have a choke.

Thanks look forward to the responses, one more thing time frame, how long will this take a novice, reason I ask is need garage space for daughter wheel chair lift on the van.  Thanks all.  Looking at starting this on Wednesday, I think that is my day off this week..

Larry, One thing I do is to remove the carb first when I pull the manifold. Makes for less of a mess, keeps any dirt in the bottom of the float bowels, yeah some does get by the filter. Should replace the thermostat and gasket, need an intake manifold set, rtv silicone sealant, I use some gasket cement, just a dab here and there, to keep the gasket in place. Carb mounting gasket, and see if you can get the manifold off with the valve covers on, sometimes they have to come off also, makes needing valve cover gaskets. As far as the choke problem, I would have to see the situation to tell for sure, but if all else fails, is a manual choke possible? I would opt to keep the aluminum intake. I just took my intake off and back on in about a day, but that includes a good cleaning and spraying clearcoat on the manifold. I'd say you would figure on a little more than that.

one suggestion i will make is not to use the front and rear gaskets that come in the box..  they suck.. and almost always leak..

just use a layer of silicone for the front and rear.

I usually take the carb off too..  but not always..  use some high tack silicone to hold the gaskets in place..  this really is one of the easiest things you can do as a novice..

i dont understand how "professional" auto mechanics can turn this into a 5 or 6 hour job..  2 hours tops if you have the right tools..

be sure to torque the manifold bolts in the right order..

On the same topic.....a fer instance....the intake on my Tahoe sprung a leak last month. Since it was 10 degrees outside, and quite a bit more involved than old chevy, I paid the dealer to do it....$819.00 Ouch, but it was done in two days and I did not have to hurt myself except in the pocket.

I did an intake/valve job 35 years ago as my first automotive project in a Cougar and it was easy.....except I got the distributor in wrong....

So, from that day forward, I can say I am an expert at timing a V8 and was so cool seeing her run good again.

Go for it...we will help in anyway and your confidence level will increase ten fold for the next project. Take your time, and plan on it taking twice as long as you think...the standard formula in my restoration manual.