I am going to do this job, putting it off until the first part of march when i get back from D.C.  Don't want to start to tear into it and then forget what I did last week, and besides I have been working 6 days aweek and 9 plus hours aday and tomarrow the weather will be dry so I am going crusin' period!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

One question that keeps coming up is the mark the distrubator?  Can some one explain that to me, simply like, I am a meat cutter, so pretty slow joe here.  Is it as intense as people are making out to be or is it something that can be explained, hope that makes some sense to some one. 

Thanks to every one who has offered advise and encourgement, that's what makes this site so great, you all are the reason that I log on to this site at least twice a day.  Thanks again. Larry

I'll try to help, I'm sure one of the guys will jump in here and help.
Pull your cap off and look at where the rotor is pointing, mark the spot somewhere on your car so you will remember. (that's what I do anyway) If you want to bump your starter and point it at number 1 that will be fine also.
That way when you put your distrubator back in you know just where it goes....just point the rotor at your mark and drop it right back in place.
When you take the cap off you can put it back out of the way and not even take the wires off. Just make yourself some marks!!
Hope this helps...
Good luck
Ken

I also put a small mark at the base of the distributer and a matching mark on the intake manifold. Also, when you pull the distributer up out of the motor, the rotor will turn a bit. I always mark where the rotor is pointed at THIS time. I put a mark on the distributer housing where the rotor points as it is pulled.   I'll be pulling the intake on my 78SA this weekend to stop a tiny water leak at the rear pass. side. Pulled and sealed the rear bolt, helped but not totally. Leak is so minor but I can't stand it!!  Mikemkapp787938405.9388541667

you guys are wimps !!

i think its much harder to get a ford stabbed properly..

Personally, I don't mark them.  I bring it up on the dedired timing marks (timing specs) on number one cylinder (not TDC), then when I reinstall  I line up the position to number one, and match the pickup reluctor or turn the dist until the points just start to open.  This will put you within a few degrees of desired timing. I don't exect you to do it this way.

Marking the distributor to the intake won't help if you change the intake.  But using the one on the car makes it easy.  When a new manifold is installed, just make a mark toward the firewall, and line up with that.

You will need a timing light when it's all back together.  One of the most important things to do is make sure the surfaces are clean before reassembly.  I agree with Ben, the seals at either end are a pain.  Use brake parts cleaner on the end surfaces, and then apply a bead of silicone sealer.  The brake parts cleaner leaves no residue.  Almost all other automotive cleaners leave a residue that prevents good bonding of the silicone to the metal. I prefer Ultra  Blue for this, but any good silicone will do the job.  You may want to use the Ultra Black just for appearance sake.  High heat silicone is not needed.

It's not really that bad.  With air tools it can be done in about 2 hours.  Granted, you will take a bit longer.

One caution.  There are cleaning disc that go on a dye grinder to drill to clean surfaces.  If you use these there are a few cautions.

First, be VERY gentle using these abrasive disc on aluminum.  They can quickly erode the surface into a warped surface, and ruin any chance for sealing.  It takes a lot to hurt or wear the cast iron.

Second, the grit can/will cause damage if it is left inside the engine.  Be sure to lay some rags in the valley of the engine after removing the manifold before you start cleaning.  This can stop the debris and grit from getting down in the engine.  If you get some antifreeze or crud in there, and you will to some degree, use some cleaner or fresh oil and wash the debris down in the oil pan, and change the oil right away.  Don't let it settle and stay in the pan.  Don't drain the oil first. You won't get all of the old oil out of the pan, and you want the crud that is there as diluted as possible, so you get as much out as possible.

Before you start, send me an e-mail, and I will send you my phone number and cell phone number.  An intake hot-line if you wish.

kstyer38406.378275463

what works for me is super black silicone, after cleaning I let it dry, I first 3M the gaskets to the heads,let them dry, then I put a uniform bead of silicone about 3/16"- 1/4"front and rear where the rubber end seals used to go,there is a 3/16 tang on the gaskets on all four corners that used to sit on top of the rubber seals, I smear a drop of silicone on the tangs and a very very thin smear around the water openings on the manifold side of the gaskets, I let the silicone "skin" for about ten to fifteen minutes, with the carb off the manifold,I drop it in place, try not to move it to much, try to get it centered with the bolt holes the first time, in your case you might want to pratice a few times before you put on the silicone, tighen the bolts by hand starting from the center out,cris-cross each bolt, the last four bolts you tighten should be the two in the back and the two in the front or visa versa, go around several times, set the manifold with the valve covers off, buy the thick valve cover gaskets with the steel shim in the middle, a little more money but worth it, they don't squeeze out or break if the are a little over tighten, 3M then to the valve covers first smear a verythin coat of slilcone on the head side,install.

I want to thank all of you for your words of help and encouragement, I am sitting at sea tac airport waiting for my flight to D.C. going to be looking over the info that was sent to me as some in flight reading.  Take care all.

Larry

If you want to bring the car up to Everett, I'll do it for you.  The most important thing is to get all the old gasket off.  If you don't it will suck air and be very hard to start.  Of course, putting the distributor back in can mess you up.  We could do it on a Saturday or Sunday.

Mark

I don't want to scare you, but when I was removing my intake, one of the bolts resisted, then turned just a little too easy......it had broken off in the head, I guess some water had gotten into the threads from the failing gasket.  Luckily there was enough of it sticking out that I was able to use a sears bolt remover to grab the end of it after using penetrating oil and letting it sit for a few days.  I wouldn't suggest doing it without leaving alot of extra time for things like this to happen.

One of my best tools is a 3/8 inch reverse cut drill bit.  I've use it on starter bolts and exhaust manifolds.  It turns the same way a bolt screws out, so when you are drilling it out, it actually bits and back the bolt out.  I've never seen anything works so well and broken starter bolts.