Topic: starter heat
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Have a 1968 big block 427. Once car has run for a while and engine heats up , and I stop engine , and try to start back up it barley turns over. However let engine cool down , starts right up. I was told this was normal for the big blocks. I have installed the heat shield around the starter, has not helped replaced all wiring, and even replaced with a new starter , still same thing. Someone mentioned to me they ended up replacing the starter with a new high torque style, and it seemed to work. Any idea's out there ???
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Lifetime MemberTemple City, CA - USA
Joined: 10/3/2010
Posts: 365
Vette(s): 1969 Daytona Yellow. 350 / Automatic.
Have you got headers running close to the starter heating it up? If its any consolation, I had a 53 Chevy Wagon with the same problem. I never solved it.
Jim
Jim
Is the starter original or a rebuild/reman?
Have you done any voltage tests at the terminals on the starter when its hot?
Heat can cause havoc on old wiring. Heat will also wreak havoc on old starters or rebuilt ones that weren't actually rebuilt properly. The armatures can drag inside when hot or the armature windings might not be up to par on a rebuilt unit.
I would start with checking voltage at the terminals when cold and then hot to see if the starter wiring is whooped. If the voltage is low when its hot then try jumpering the positive battery cable to the solenoid and see if the starter spins the engine over normal. If the starter still cranks slow then I'd suspect the starter is tired. Let us know what you come up with.
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The positive cable on older chevy tends to erode over time so they will not carry the proper current especially when the wire gets warm, but you say you replaced all wires. A mini high tq starter will solve the problem..put one on my 68 & 73 for the same reason.
Alan
No I don't remember, it was any yrs ago, but any mini starter from a good reseller shrould be fine. I bought one for my Dodge a few yrs ago off of ebay & it still work fine & that engine is a high compression engine that puts out more heat than the 454. A big plus is they are very small & light which make the install easier. If the starter ever goes in the 77 a mini will replace it & I'll just have the factory one rebuilt.
Alan
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You need to make sure you have a high torque starter on your car to start with. ALL big blocks came with them. If the starter has ever been replaced in the past, chances are it was replaced with a "regular" starter.
I've cured this same issue on MANY big block Chebbies by using a Ford starter solenoid, and a minor wiring modification. The real problem is usually NOT the starter motor, but the solenoid itself.
I've cured this same issue on MANY big block Chebbies by using a Ford starter solenoid, and a minor wiring modification. The real problem is usually NOT the starter motor, but the solenoid itself.
Joel Adams
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Had the exact same problem. To the point that if I had to stop my engine, I would make sure it was parked in a spot it could stay there for an hour or 2 and there was a restaurant nearby so I could go sit down and have a snack while the car cools down.
I first replaced the solenoid, but the isolating rubber was dry and fell of on re-assembly; which means that on my first start after installing the new solenoid; I had a mini firework and fried the whole thing.
I took the entire starter off and did a core trade-in against a rebuilt one (identical for big block) at a local ACDelco shop. It was a while ago, but I think I paid less than 100$ with the core exchange. Worked on first start and never had that problem again.
Lifetime MemberModerator
Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Lilfur said:...and even replaced with a new starter , still same thing.
I missed that on the first read. That statement in itself would lead me to think there is a wiring issue. Could be the main battery cable from the battery to the starter solenoid, or the "start" circuit from the iggy switch. The purple wire on the solenoid MUST have 12v while cranking to fully engage the solenoid, and make the starter spin. Same with the battery cable on the solenoid.....if voltage gets below 10v, the starter will not spin at full speed.
One of the reasons using a Ford solenoid works so well is that it eliminates a problem with the iggy switch, and low voltage to the "start" terminal on the solenoid, plus, it removes the solenoid for the heat that can cause that.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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in Forum: C3 Engines
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