Has anyone ever had a problem with their starter? I have an 81. When we bought it we knew that the starter was probably not long for this world. There were alot of marks on it from the previous owner tapping it to get it going. I had to do it a few times until I got nervous that I was running out of "taps". I went to the local auto parts chain store and bought a new (READ..REBUILT) one. It was good for about 6 - 12 starts. Is it just that I got a bad one? The parts place will replace it. It's just a hassle having to keep replacing. Has anyone else had this problem or do I just have bad starter luck?

make sure you shim the starter properly..

also.. did you replace the solenoid at the same time ??

starter and solenoid. Shimmed and all.

I would say you got a bad starter, i bought a rebuilt one from checker, lifetime warranty for 50 bucks, corvette catalog it will cost you 200. Mine's working fine

Is it only when hot or is it always hard to start. I had mine rebuilt, was ok when cold but hard to start when hot. Put a heat shield on the starter, but didn't help. Took it back to the re-builder and he checked around and found there is a kit with stronger spring for 350 starters. Has been fine since.

I agree with "blackbigblock"...bad rebuild.
I took my starter to this well known old timer that owned an auto electric shop. He personally rebuilt my starter and beefed it up a bit. 4yrs later...still going. Under a $100 and has a lifetime warranty.
Sarge

81vettegirl said: starter and solenoid. Shimmed and all.

had to ask.. ive seen too many people do it wrong..

I agree with the others... take it back..

It does sound like a bad starter, but be sure to check the battery cables and connections as well.

And keep in mind there are different levels of "Rebuilt"

Remanufactured is everything new except the hard non moving metal parts. The housings for example. Everything else is new.

Rebuilt is all the electrical parts replaces, new bearings etc. Very complete and a good unit. Cheaper cost then Remanufactured. It does reuse some functional components.

Reconditioned. This is a used unit that has been cleaned and repaired. What ever was wrong was fixed, and nothing more. Just above used. Way below the others.

I stay away from reconditioned.

For Example at AutoZone
Duralast Gold, Remanufactured. Lifetime warranty. Good stuff.
Duralast, Rebuild. Lifetime warranty ( I usually use this)
Then by various names, One year warranty. Reconditioned. Okay for a tight budget, but thats all.

Which did you buy? Any one of them can have a mfg problems. Bad ones slip through once in a while. That a pain, but it's what warrenties are for.


As a plaque I once saw stated

"We sell only the best quality oats. For that you can expect to pay a reasonable and fair price.
But if you want oats that have already been through the horse, they are considerably cheaper."

|UPDATED|10/8/2004 7:46:06 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

I assume "shimming" the started involves shims between it and the block? Is that to achieve a certain tolerance between the started and flywheel teeth? If so, what is the gap and how measured? My only past experience w/ most of my mechanical work was a '69 Camaro with an older 283. Don't remember any kind of shim with it. Maybe it was missing. I'd just be curious, so that I am informed when the time comes...

The shim does go between the starter and block. The intent is to set the clearance between the starter drive gear while engauged and the flywheel. There is a small rod that is used as a gauge, but almost impossible to use on most cars.

If the starter gear has too little clearance it will bind and make a whine sound. If it is too loose it will growl. Either way will wear out the teeth on the starter drive and flywheel.

Usually if there were no shims, and the starter sounds good and works well, you are okay.
If it had shims, put the same ones back in.
This works well most of the time.