Topic: Stock 1968 327 high idle speed
in Forum: C3 Engines
I have a high idle, 1000 RPM, at operating temp of 180 degrees. This is without the PCV connected which adds another 400 RPM if connected. The engine is starving for gas and acts like a vacuum leak but plugging everything and spraying any carb cleaner makes no change. The advance is 0 degrees, 30 dwell. Plugs show normal color only on one side of insulator and the other side is as white as when they were installed. Compression is 160 hot on all cylinders but # 7 has started to show an increase and is now at about 200??
This is all with Edelbrock performer and 600 Holly jetted with 68's. Original QJet was running like in a full flood and my mechanic said I had a big vacuum leak. So It's not the carb or manifold. Bad Cam??
Need any advice, Thanks
I'm guessing you mean with the PCV line plugged. If so, the carb is running too rich. Perhaps float level? You can have internal leaks in the carb. If you have power brakes, you could have a leak in the brake booster.
In any event, the vacuum/fuel leaks/adjustments are not right.
As far as that one cylinder with 200 psi, you may want to check it again on a cold engine. I suspect you have some carbon buildup. This could also be a result of some messed up mixtures, or a valve seal bad on that one cylinder.
My first,
I also had an idle problem after I re-installied my carb. Turns out that my new "correct" return spring was too weak. I put the old sprngs back on & it idles nicely.
Just my 2 cents,
Anthony
I'd put a little intial advance into the engine. Should be areound 10 to 12 degrees. Not zero. That can cause bad idle issues because its not getting spark soon enough to burn the fuel correctly.


10 to 12 is conservative for timing IMHO..
check out the recent thread called something like "i hate timing lights"
Some engines use the timing chain marks at 12 and 12, others use 12 and 6 o'clock positions. If you get it backwards, the distributor will be 180 degrees out, and the car won't run. Your car ran.
You can't get the cam 180 out. All that means is if you turn the crank one turn, the cam turns 180, and is back where it started. With both valves on #1 closed, it is correctly lined up at # one position.