My, ain't it purdy up here?longhorn2942008-07-26 21:23:29

Listen to those voices

if you stoke it be carefull not to go blind sorry had to.....

Dwain here is a write up that Nosal1 did on the stroker characteristics that is real good:

    "I might be able to answer some of your questions regarding a 383..As in the days of old, the 327 block was used with a 283 steel crank to make a 301.45 cc in '67 to make the engine that beat all engines in the Can Am races, where the cubic inch was restricted to 302 cc for the race,hence came the Camaro Z28 with all it's glory and under stated HP..Stated HP was 290hp when in fact it was closer to 390 hp..
        The 383 goes the other was by using a 350(stroke 3.47 ) block with a 400 crank or an aftermarket crank with the main journals already for a 350 main caps.If you use a 400 crank you have to have the main cap journals turned down to a 350 main spec's,which is an additional cost,however you increase the stroke thereby increasing the HP,with additional goodies,i.e. 64 cc heads or less 2.02 intake valves if you are going to use dual carbs 1.94in. valves are great for the street and then be sure to use 1.6 or 1.65 exhaust valves as you want to expel the exhaust fast and effectively. Also in the assembly of the engine you have to assemble one of the pistons(no rings on the piston)with the crank in place,torqued(piston and crank) and rotate the engine until the rod cap and nut clear the block.Usually the last two cylinders are the ones that touch,however I do all of the cylinders to be sure they all clear,and after you grind down the portion of the block that the rod touches and have checked all the holes and you are satisfied you have clearance,then you dismantle and have or clean the block with a highly surface active surfactant (Simple Green detergent) to be absolutely sure you have all metal fines out of the block..Unfortunately all this has to be checked after the machine shop has done the boring, unless your machine shop is going to set this up themselves.I build these and all types of engines and do the setting up a 383 myself.
      There is a special cam that does a great job,however if interested in this application we could talk more later..
       Heads are important..We were very fortunate with VETTER BOB '69 Vette engine as it has original 186 heads(last three digits) and they are the finest breathing heads ever made,they are so great the aftermarket copied their flowing profile and that is what most of the aluminum heads are patterned after....
       I have bent your ear and calloused my fingers typing,however thought I say in closing the 383 Stroker engine is by no means a cheap engine to build however, coupled with a good to great tranny( beefed up 350 or 400 tranny )and a 3:42 or 3:55( you probably have a 2:73 or 3:07 ) gears limited slip rear end you will get the ride of your life.Your Vette will try and get away from you when you jump on the throttle..
        As in all things automotive one thing leads to another,so be ready for an expensive but rewarding engine,tranny,rear end grocery getting Vette.
        If I can be any assistance or answer any questions,please do not hesitate to ask...
                     Sal      nosal1

When you posted that title "Stroken Longhorn" I new u wuz en troubbbllll.

Stroke that puppy, Dwain!

[QUOTE=Tuxblacray]Dwain here is a write up that Nosal1 did on the stroker characteristics that is real good:

    "I might be able to answer some of your questions regarding a 383..As in the days of old, the 327 block was used with a 283 steel crank to make a 301.45 cc in '67 to make the engine that beat all engines in the Can Am races, where the cubic inch was restricted to 302 cc for the race,hence came the Camaro Z28 with all it's glory and under stated HP..Stated HP was 290hp when in fact it was closer to 390 hp..
        The 383 goes the other was by using a 350(stroke 3.47 ) block with a 400 crank or an aftermarket crank with the main journals already for a 350 main caps.If you use a 400 crank you have to have the main cap journals turned down to a 350 main spec's,which is an additional cost,however you increase the stroke thereby increasing the HP,with additional goodies,i.e. 64 cc heads or less 2.02 intake valves if you are going to use dual carbs 1.94in. valves are great for the street and then be sure to use 1.6 or 1.65 exhaust valves as you want to expel the exhaust fast and effectively. Also in the assembly of the engine you have to assemble one of the pistons(no rings on the piston)with the crank in place,torqued(piston and crank) and rotate the engine until the rod cap and nut clear the block.Usually the last two cylinders are the ones that touch,however I do all of the cylinders to be sure they all clear,and after you grind down the portion of the block that the rod touches and have checked all the holes and you are satisfied you have clearance,then you dismantle and have or clean the block with a highly surface active surfactant (Simple Green detergent) to be absolutely sure you have all metal fines out of the block..Unfortunately all this has to be checked after the machine shop has done the boring, unless your machine shop is going to set this up themselves.I build these and all types of engines and do the setting up a 383 myself.
      There is a special cam that does a great job,however if interested in this application we could talk more later..
       Heads are important..We were very fortunate with VETTER BOB '69 Vette engine as it has original 186 heads(last three digits) and they are the finest breathing heads ever made,they are so great the aftermarket copied their flowing profile and that is what most of the aluminum heads are patterned after....
       I have bent your ear and calloused my fingers typing,however thought I say in closing the 383 Stroker engine is by no means a cheap engine to build however, coupled with a good to great tranny( beefed up 350 or 400 tranny )and a 3:42 or 3:55( you probably have a 2:73 or 3:07 ) gears limited slip rear end you will get the ride of your life.Your Vette will try and get away from you when you jump on the throttle..
        As in all things automotive one thing leads to another,so be ready for an expensive but rewarding engine,tranny,rear end grocery getting Vette.
        If I can be any assistance or answer any questions,please do not hesitate to ask...
                     Sal      nosal1
[/QUOTE]  Thanks, Tux.... and Sal

Iffin money is no object, I'd have to agree....poke it out. I know a few locals with strokers, and there are a few here(C3VR) too. Don't think the fuel mileage is a priority on them, tho...
I think with the head/cam/intake you got, it should run just fine without the extra inches, for less $$$ and labor, but then again, the extra HP/Tq would be cool too....
The big issue on yours would be the diff ratio, as no matter what engine ya wind up building, the diff still has the high ratio, which will be good on the road, but may be a wee bit doggy in town. If the engine makes good torque down low(1500rpm), then the diff ratio may not be as big a factor.

Whut jest happened here? Where in the heck did Strollin Tru Da park Come From? Ah thought that Should I Stroke It? was appropriate.... Thar weren't no funny business in any of da replies... Everything was purty business like.

This topic don't seem ta fit..... I HATE ALWAYS BEING POLITICALLY CORRECT!!!!!! Dadburn silly crap!

Uh sorry jest had ta let that go............   

 Well, I'll just go wid it and see how it comes out. Iffin it has to have a different diff ratio, I'll deal with it then.  Think I'll stroke it. I ain't gittin no younger, so, go for the gusto...  Besides the extra torque couldn't hurt with that diff, right?