Topic: Stuck intake manifold
in Forum: C3 Engines
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What started out to be just replacing a water pump has suddenly snow balled from a leaky radiator "which is out and re-cored" to having to pull the intake. To make it easier and to repaint I decided to remove the smog pump bracket and the bolt broke off. After carefully drilling and soaking in PB blaster for a week I snapped the EZ out off. I decided it would be easier just to remove the manifold and had two more break. I now have all the bolts out but the manifold won't budge. Is there a safe way to pry it free from the gaskets and sealer? I'am 99% sure that it has never been removed.
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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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Some intakes can be stubborn, for sure...
Make sure the valve covers are not holding it down...the top edges of some vcs hang over the edge of the intake, so it's usually best to remove at least one of the vcs when removing the intake.
A long, sturdy prybar will get it loose, or you can wedge a screwdriver in between the intake, and the top of the block at the front edge, between the heads, to pop it up.
hth

Make sure the valve covers are not holding it down...the top edges of some vcs hang over the edge of the intake, so it's usually best to remove at least one of the vcs when removing the intake.
A long, sturdy prybar will get it loose, or you can wedge a screwdriver in between the intake, and the top of the block at the front edge, between the heads, to pop it up.
hth

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]Some intakes can be stubborn, for sure...
Make sure the valve covers are not holding it down...the top edges of some vcs hang over the edge of the intake, so it's usually best to remove at least one of the vcs when removing the intake.
A long, sturdy prybar will get it loose, or you can wedge a screwdriver in between the intake, and the top of the block at the front edge, between the heads, to pop it up.
hth
[/QUOTE] All of what Joel said and swearing can help also! Good luck

Make sure the valve covers are not holding it down...the top edges of some vcs hang over the edge of the intake, so it's usually best to remove at least one of the vcs when removing the intake.
A long, sturdy prybar will get it loose, or you can wedge a screwdriver in between the intake, and the top of the block at the front edge, between the heads, to pop it up.
hth

corvette440hp
Oh , and u must throw a few tools across the shop as your swearing to make the ritual complete .....lol 

As Ron said... I just did your exact repair (replace radiator, water pump and leading to the manifold. The Edlebrock unit is an exact exterior dimension as stock, it offered some uuumph and fits under the hood using the stock carb.

Oceanside, CA - USA
Joined: 11/19/2003
Posts: 191
Vette(s): 1978 Silver Anniversary model. Original L82 engine, 700r4 trans, edelbrock intake, thorly headers, rack&pinion steering, mono rear and front spring, MSD 6A box
I know your pain. Last night I was putting on a bracket that holds the brake booster vacum line, took out the two rear maniforld bolts(left side) put the bracket on put in the first bolt hand tighten then the back bolt again hand tighten, torqued the first bolt (30fp) tried totorqued the back bolt it won't tighen. Pulled it out threads look good. Closed the hood, went to bed. Look at it again tonite.
Eddie, stupid question...are both the bolts the same lenght?
Were the bolts that broke the ones adjacient to the water passages? Did just the heads break off? If so, did you get the entire broken bolt out or just drill and tap the holes? Make sure there's no corrosion from the old bolt remnants to the aluminum manifold. Water passage bolts sometimes weld themselves to the aluminum because of chemical reactions between the water, steel, and aluminum. I've seen this on thermostat housings, too.
in Forum: C3 Engines
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