In '76 a VIN with an "L" indicated a car equipped with a 180 hp L48 engine.

thanks for all responce.

I dumped every piece of emission junk including the heat riser. Now I am in the process of building a new engine not that the old one was bad, it's just that it can always be better. I think that's part of the problem with our hobby. We seem never to be satisfied with what we have.

Joanne, I'm no expert in any sense on this subject, but I see that you're a trial member, and I'd like to try to show you that this Forum can indeed be a great source of info on just about anything related to C3 Corvettes. So I'll attempt to pass along what I can, to try to get at least part of your basic question answered. I'm sure that much more knowledgeable members than me will chime in here soon--so don't give up on us just yet!

Here's what I think you can dispose of without affecting your engine's performance:

- the A.I.R. pump (Air Injection Reactor, commonly referred to as the 'smog pump'). This is located on the top of the front passenger side of your engine. It's driven by a belt, just like the alternator, power steering pump, and air conditioning compressor are. If you have A/C in your car, the A.I.R pump is located right next to, and just 'inboard', of the A/C compressor. You'll need to cap off the places around the engine where the various hoses that go from the A.I.R pump are attached; but plugs to fit these holes can be found.

The other emissions component that you can remove without problem is the pipes that go into the top of the exhaust manifold, again on the passenger side of the engine. Once you remove those pipes, you can plug the holes that are left in the manifold with an appropriately-sized bolt or maybe a machine screw. Probably a good idea to seal the bolt/screw with some high-temperature sealant, just for a leak-free connection. (Or, since you're looking to 'wake up' the engine, and don't have to stick with the factory/emissions-equipped exhaust headers, spring for aftermarket headers. Various companies make them, and by themselves, they're not terribly expensive...)

Problemenko already addressed the heat riser (attached by a bracket to the exhaust manifold on the passenger side of the engine).

From what I understand (and again, I'm no expert!), the rest of the smog equipment can/should be left on. The PCV valve (which is inserted into the top of the valve cover on the driver's side of the engine, near where the alternator is located; it has a vacuum hoses attached to it) is important to the engine's basic operation.

The EGR valve (attached to the the top part of the engine--the intake manifold--just below the carburetor, on the passenger side, at a angle. It's usually light gold in color) can be left on, or removed. I've seen different opinions, and the aftermarket parts suppliers sell plates and gaskets to cover the opening that's left if you do remove it. Or, if you choose to replace your factory intake manifold with a better-performing aftermarket one, you can get ones that don't have the opening for the EGR valve at all. (Again, these intake manifolds aren't very expensive.)

The charcoal canister--which looks a little like a coffee can, with vacuum hoses and other lines attached to it, and is located way down below the windshield washer reservoir and brake master cylinder/vacuum booster, on the driver's side, down by the frame--should be left intact.

With that, I've exhausted my limited knowledge--and I hope what I've written is accurate (and ideally, helpful!). As I say, other members who are a lot more savvy than me will add on to or correct what I've written.

At any rate, welcome to the Forum! My wife is English and a lifelong Corvette lover, so we have that much in common...(and we live in California, so we know firsthand just what you mean about our emissions laws here. They don't call 'em the 'smog nazis' for nothing!)

hi,we brits get everywhere!!

Sounds great, Joanne!

Now we just need some of the experts around here to post their advice on your smog equipment, and it sounds like you'll have one fine-performing '79...

hubby says go edelbrock performer rpm way,should push close to 400 horse if what edelbrock say is true

What SFVette has said is good advice and what hubby is saying is good.  Just remember to get the low profile edelbrock performer manifold if you have a standard bonnet (hood).  I've also got a Holley 600 with vacuum secondaries which I find performs better than the standard Rot-chester.  If your standard carb is working fine just leave it, if not I would opt for the Holley.