The seals on the actuator rods are most likely shot. You can replace those seals quite easily and it's a lot cheaper then buying new actuators. Test the seals by applying vacuum to the actuator ports that face forward with a hand held pump like the Mityvac. If they hold vacuum they are not leaking, failure to hold vacuum means they need to be replaced. You could test the integrity of the actuator diaphragm the same way, but apply vacuum to the rear port. Failure to hold vacuum on the rear port means it's time (unfortunately) for new actuators. The seal kits come with a piece of rubber shaped like a witch's hat and a metal retaining piece. Remove the valence panel, headlight control valves, and the round braces that angle towards the center (the outer ones can stay) after disconnecting the actuator linkage you can gently remove them from underneath for the seal kit installation. You also may need to remove the horn if it's mounted on that center brace. Remove the old retainers and seals, polish the actuator rod with a little crocus cloth, and lube the rubber piece with silicone spray prior to installation, and install the new retainer piece.  Proper adjustment of the actuator linkage: fully extended with vacuum applied, the link should extend about 1 to 1-1/2 turns beyond the end of the travel of the headlight mechanism. Adjust to where the link pin fits in nicely, then remove the pin and turn the link out 1-1/2 turns.

[QUOTE=mbarney]OK I did the test, pasanger side everything was great. In fact when I applied vacuum to the port that faces the front of the vehicle the light went up. On the drivers side the port that faces the engine was good, however when vacuum was applied to the port that faces out I couldn't get more than 2 inches of vacuum and it never went up. Seal kit or replace? Thanks[/QUOTE]

Seal kit, but make sure by checking the port on the back side of the actuator first. Leakage there means the diaphragm is shot. Most of the time it's just the seals. I would recommend doing them both as long as everything is apart, it's not a real major job.

Edit: I see that you already checked the back side (I'm getting old). Yep a seal kit should fix the problem.

Thanks, I will do them this weekend. Seems like its always something but I bought the seal kits a while back just in case.

It corrected the vacuum loss problem. Then I figured out I had the advance plugged into the wrong port on the carb. So the combination of the two corrected a lot of problems. The idle has finally settled down. Everything I do is an experiment. Thanks again