Topic: Timing woes
in Forum: C3 Engines
Already a Member?
Click Here to Login
Not yet a Member?
Click Here to Register for Free!
Former Member
Send PM
Charleston AFB, SC - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 111
Vette(s): 1979 Cream Beige Coupe w/383 & 700R4
Mine is around 11:1 in my 383. Right now I have a HEI and the Hyfire VI Digital Multi-Strike Ignition Control. My vacuum to the advance is running ported (above throttle plates). This is how it was setup when I got the car. I believe when I changed it to direct it got worse, however I'm not 100% sure.
I'm really at a loss now as to what I can do to fix this. I guess I can buy a MSD setup since everyone thinks that will fix it, but I hate to spend that kind of money when I have the Hyfire already in there.
defsegx 2008-02-03 11:17:05
I'm really at a loss now as to what I can do to fix this. I guess I can buy a MSD setup since everyone thinks that will fix it, but I hate to spend that kind of money when I have the Hyfire already in there.
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
Former Member
Send PM
Charleston AFB, SC - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 111
Vette(s): 1979 Cream Beige Coupe w/383 & 700R4
Ok, I got out there tonight and was tested the vac can on the dist. It looks like it's providing about 25 degrees. It is on ported if that matters, but that's what I've come up with using a vac gauge.
From what I've been reading (like on http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113) that is WAY too much for what I have. With 16 initial, 20-22 from the centrifugal, and then another 25 from the vac that means I'm running about 61 under full load. Does that seem like way too much to anyone?
Like I said, it's hooked up ported, and this problem usually only happens when I'm in 4th and the TC is locked, and I try to give it gas at lower speeds. This puts a lot of load on the engine.
I disconnected the vac can from the carb completely (eliminating the vac advance from the system totally) and it seems like the car is making more power as well, but I'm told this is bad to do because of fuel economy/etc.
So C3VR, what next
If 61 is indeed way too much, especially with my 11:1 compression, should I just buy another vac can and try that? Would changing the vac advance to full manifold help at all?
Thanks a ton
-Josh
Edit: I just took it for a drive on the highway. With the vac can disconnected, I think the pinging is just as bad if not worse than before. I'm totally lost
defsegx 2008-02-03 19:19:50
From what I've been reading (like on http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113) that is WAY too much for what I have. With 16 initial, 20-22 from the centrifugal, and then another 25 from the vac that means I'm running about 61 under full load. Does that seem like way too much to anyone?
Like I said, it's hooked up ported, and this problem usually only happens when I'm in 4th and the TC is locked, and I try to give it gas at lower speeds. This puts a lot of load on the engine.
I disconnected the vac can from the carb completely (eliminating the vac advance from the system totally) and it seems like the car is making more power as well, but I'm told this is bad to do because of fuel economy/etc.
So C3VR, what next

If 61 is indeed way too much, especially with my 11:1 compression, should I just buy another vac can and try that? Would changing the vac advance to full manifold help at all?
Thanks a ton
-Josh
Edit: I just took it for a drive on the highway. With the vac can disconnected, I think the pinging is just as bad if not worse than before. I'm totally lost

Former Member
Send PM
Yelm, WA - USA
Joined: 7/12/2007
Posts: 356
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.
Josh, here's a couple links to threads on timing I got these off hotrodders.com they helped me out a lot and cleared out some of the things I was confused on.
What I've learned so far is to stop looking at 350 timing and idle standards and don't use the ported vacuum on you carb That I figured out pretty early on. I got alum heads, maybe that's helping me to not have detonation issues? On mine I have a 280 cam so my idle is best around 1-1200. Initial comes out to 16 with 36 total. I get the highest vaccum from my manifold with this setting, when I hook up the advance and run it up to 26-3000 rpm my timing light says I'm off the chart as well around 60 but I stopped paying attention to that cause it runs pretty good. Pulled everything off and timed it by ear, lol comes out the same actually a little higer up around 17-18 initial. It's hard to tune using either the light or the vaccum gauge cause of the cam on mine so I set it with the light to start and then use the vacuum gauge and my one good ear after that. I fouled up my plugs pretty good so I didn't get to play with it today.
Keep playing with it, if it's pinging at WOT then retard it a little and try tuning your carb with the vacuum gauge to get it dialed in right. Also I would say since your compression is higher than mine your probably going to have issues, and like hippo69 said and your probably a good candidate for the higher octane. I went with my engine cause the compression wasn't too crazy and I would be able to run pump gas(supposedly). I don't have the 5-600 bucks right now to switch out to an msd so I'm going to get myself schooled up on tuning with the HEI. Seems like I would be able to get it close to good messing with the hei for a lot less money. Probably the same as what your looking at doing changing out the springs and possible a restrictor plate for the vac adv. Good luck! And, I didn't mean to barge in on your thread!
Former Member
Send PM
Mounds View, MN - USA
Joined: 5/24/2007
Posts: 1031
Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
The first thing I would do is verify the timing mark is actually at TDC. Then I would check the air fuel mixture. If your headers are glowing, you must be running pretty lean, or are dumping still-burning fuel into the headers. When you increase airflow through an engine, you usually need to fatten the mixture several jet sizes.
Independent dyno tests have shown that you don't make any more horsepower with replacement distributors. The factory unit works just fine up to at least 6,000 RPM. You tune for power without vacuum advance, then adding vacuum advance improves mileage and cooling while cruising. Joel is right that when your timing is advanced at cruising, stabbing the throttle will remove vacuum and therefore retard the timing back to what you had it set mechanically.
As far as your lock-up converter lugging the engine, there are kits to control the lock-up by vacuum, or by RPMs, or by throttle position. You can decide which probably works best for you.
Independent dyno tests have shown that you don't make any more horsepower with replacement distributors. The factory unit works just fine up to at least 6,000 RPM. You tune for power without vacuum advance, then adding vacuum advance improves mileage and cooling while cruising. Joel is right that when your timing is advanced at cruising, stabbing the throttle will remove vacuum and therefore retard the timing back to what you had it set mechanically.
As far as your lock-up converter lugging the engine, there are kits to control the lock-up by vacuum, or by RPMs, or by throttle position. You can decide which probably works best for you.
Former Member
Send PM
Charleston AFB, SC - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 111
Vette(s): 1979 Cream Beige Coupe w/383 & 700R4
Ok I think I have it mostly figured out. Spent like 4 hours in the parking lot today with a vacuum gauge, timing light, and spring kit.
I have been running gold+gold in my dist for a while (kit is gold/silver/black). I don't know why I never thought about it before, but gold+gold makes my timing coming in early. Early is where I was having problems with being too lean and pinging like marbles in a coffee can. I changed one to silver, and set the timing back to 12deg BTDC and viola, no pinging.
I still need to get a new vac advance, 24 degrees of advance from the can is WAY too much. I am going to buy an adjustable one (tried today, nobody carries them locally ugh). Then I will adjust it down to like 14-16, and I should be able to advance my BTDC to ~16 without pining (I hope).
This is still all running ported manifold btw. I tried full manifold and it ran like butt, I had to retard the timing to almost 0 to get it to not idle 1k RPM.
I'll let you guys know what happens when I get in the new can.
-Josh
I have been running gold+gold in my dist for a while (kit is gold/silver/black). I don't know why I never thought about it before, but gold+gold makes my timing coming in early. Early is where I was having problems with being too lean and pinging like marbles in a coffee can. I changed one to silver, and set the timing back to 12deg BTDC and viola, no pinging.
I still need to get a new vac advance, 24 degrees of advance from the can is WAY too much. I am going to buy an adjustable one (tried today, nobody carries them locally ugh). Then I will adjust it down to like 14-16, and I should be able to advance my BTDC to ~16 without pining (I hope).
This is still all running ported manifold btw. I tried full manifold and it ran like butt, I had to retard the timing to almost 0 to get it to not idle 1k RPM.
I'll let you guys know what happens when I get in the new can.
-Josh
Former Member
Send PM
Yelm, WA - USA
Joined: 7/12/2007
Posts: 356
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.
Cool! My mechanic buddy was telling me that some like ported and some like manifold seems like it's trial and error to figure out what works best. I'm glad to hear you made progress
79rebuild 2008-02-04 21:51:24

in Forum: C3 Engines
SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)