Topic: To Roller or not to Roller
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Looking for an opinion from the obviously more educated than me on this subject :-)
The motor has yet to be started so everything is essentially new.




I purchased a 383 stroker this past weekend from a guy who was in a money bind. He built the motor with all intentions of installing it in his car, but had some unforeseen financial difficulties.
It's a high nickle block 350, 4 bolt main block that's been machined for a 383 stroker kit and bored .30 over.
Installed is an Eagle 383 Stroker kit with Eagle H Beam rods and rod bolts.
Speed Pro forged flat top pistons
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads
Comp Cams roller tip rockers
Comp Cams hydraulic flat tappet lifters
Comp Cams flat tappet cam with 470 lift. He was not able to provide more details on the cam other than the lift. I was planning to pull the cam to get the model number off of it but thought, if i'm doing this, would it be worth going to a roller setup ? Or stick with the cam that's in it once i ID it since my plan was to take it to a shop who offers the service of break in, tuning and dyno once i finish putting it all together. My fear is the cam break in process.
The motor has yet to be started so everything is essentially new.
A complete roller setup from Howards runs just under $1000 and would include, cam, retrofit lifters, Springs, retainers, valve stem seals, timing chain/gears and cam button. Sticking with what i've got..$0
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Overland Park, KS - USA
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Vette(s): 1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.
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Nice looking engine. Doesn't the seller have the cam info?
Hopefully whoever assembled the engine put the cam lube on.
Be sure to prime the oil pump before first start.
Hopefully whoever assembled the engine put the cam lube on.
Be sure to prime the oil pump before first start.
1973 L-82 4 spd

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I think I would do edzachary what you are planning....get the cam out and see what the heck it is to start with, and then make a decision on whether or not to use it. Going full roller is kewl and all, if you can afford it, but at the same time, if the cam that's in it now is a nice one that will work well with the combo as built, then there's no real need to change it other than "just 'cause".
Breaking in a flat tappet cam ain't all that hard, as long as the the durn engine will start right off the bat without having to crank on it for days, or mess with adjustment for 30 minutes to get it to idle. By then, the damage is already done. If you plan on having someone else do the break-in/initial tune, then let them handle it. They should be able to double-check everything to make sure it will fire easily first time, and then do the break-in procedure.
Breaking in a flat tappet cam ain't all that hard, as long as the the durn engine will start right off the bat without having to crank on it for days, or mess with adjustment for 30 minutes to get it to idle. By then, the damage is already done. If you plan on having someone else do the break-in/initial tune, then let them handle it. They should be able to double-check everything to make sure it will fire easily first time, and then do the break-in procedure.

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Thanks Joel, i did some reading comparing Roller vs flat tappet and while it does offer a HP increase, the horsepower per $ cost is pretty steep. The shop i called charges $600 for break in, test and tune with dyno output sheet. That's less than the cost of that roller cam !
But i think you're right, i'll pull that cam this weekend to ID it and if a reasonable cam, will stick with it and put the money elsewhere.
Appreciate the advice !
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Overland Park, KS - USA
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Vette(s): 1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.
2023 Accelerate Yellow HTC Stingray
You could put a degree wheel on it and dial indicator on a valve and develop the spec plus would be a good check to see if it's timed right.
I've read where it's recommended that you add GM's EOS (lots of zinc) to the crankcase for break-in.
|UPDATED|7/15/2016 7:05:02 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
I've read where it's recommended that you add GM's EOS (lots of zinc) to the crankcase for break-in.
|UPDATED|7/15/2016 7:05:02 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
1973 L-82 4 spd
Okay, pulled the cam and it was definitely put together right, had lots of assembly lube on it, but i put a fresh coating when i reinstalled it and re-lashed the valves.
It's a Comp Cams
Grind 270H010
470 lift
270 duration
110 lobe seperation
will continue with re-assembly and get it ready for the dyno ! I'll post back results when done. I know the shop is on vacation the next 2 weeks so probaly 3-4 weeks out for results!
Thanks for your help !
Update to the forum. I decided to stick with the cam setup that was in the engine and brought it to a local machine shop who offers the service of breaking the cam in on the stand followed by engine dyno test runs and tuning. After breakin, re-jetting the carb and adjusting valves and timing, the end results are 390 horsepower and 440 lb ft of torque !
While not crazy high that should be more than sufficient to move my C3 :-)

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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


It'll loosen up some after it fully breaks in, and the power numbers will go up some. Still, that's a pretty healthy engine!
Joel Adams
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My Link
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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Overland Park, KS - USA
Joined: 7/9/2003
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Vette(s): 1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.
2023 Accelerate Yellow HTC Stingray
Sounds like a keeper.
1973 L-82 4 spd
in Forum: C3 Engines
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