It is the plate that goes on top of this and the TB connect to it. I think I have found the answers I needed except where you got your picture.
Just in case someone else is following this that has a crossfire system. The top-plate is normally warped. I talked to some Crossfire people and was told lay the plate on a flat surface. Mark the holes closest to that area that are on opposite sides of the plate. Then start your torqueing there. (is torqueing a real word?) Work your way out both directions from this point. The idea is to roll the plate back flat without bunching up the gasket.
It was recommended that you torque in at least two stages. I'm more conservative so I used three. The torque is 15-18 ft# which is down at the low end of most torque wrenches and therefore the least accurate area so I would us an inch# torque myself and that would be 190-216 inch#.
Now the TB are torqued to a lower speck 10-14 ft# or 120-168 inch# (see 6C1-4 bottom left column). Also one of the TB bolts goes through the top-plate also. Have not got a good answer for which speck to use on that one. I'm going with the lower TB speck personally.
I have heard but not confirmed that the GM manual calls out 30 ft# of torque on the top plate if it does that would be wrong in my book as 30 ft# on aluminum is a lot.
By the way I found "electronic torque adapter" on Google and ordered the ACDelco ARM602-3 because it comes with a calibration sticker. I will use it to check my torque wrenches as I do not use them often and I was in the Calibration business and know that most torque wrenches will not stay in calibration if not properly cared for. For example I found my mid-range torque wrench set to 80 ft# I forgot to unload it I guess when I last used it 1 year ago. I will almost for sure guarantee it is no longer in calibration. Have not used my high-range torque wrench in 5 years.
2011111017209r.jpg "click to update your profile pic")
