Topic: Valve cover makeover??
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Since I started doing some stuff under my hood I been looking at my valve covers. The black aluminum L-82 ones. The paints coming off in enough places to bug me.
Is removing them a pain?
Should I strip them to bare metal to repaint?
Is there special primer for aluminum?
Is the proper finish satin or high gloss and should it be high heat paint?
Is it hard to get them back on and not to leak?
Thanks, I don't want to pry them off if I'm going to be sorry.
Jeff
Is removing them a pain?
Should I strip them to bare metal to repaint?
Is there special primer for aluminum?
Is the proper finish satin or high gloss and should it be high heat paint?
Is it hard to get them back on and not to leak?
Thanks, I don't want to pry them off if I'm going to be sorry.
Jeff
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You should have no problem getting them off,if they haven't been off in a while they might take a little persuasion.you should strip them down and degrease them,I don't know about the primer, I think they were gloss black,sealing them back up shouldn't be a problem,being cast aluminum they don't warp like stamped steel ones,I always use rubber gaskets,other folks prefer the cork ones 

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You can have them soda blasted to get all the old paint off and prep the surface. They were called gloss black, but weren't as shiny as exterior paint. I would not use a primer because of the heat, and would use high temp black paint. There is a paint available that is just for those valve covers. It is only about $7.00 for a can that should do both covers. Then use a sanding block and about 320 sandpaper to clean the paint off the tops of the fins. The new emblems are also about $7.00 each.
I am old, so I grew up firmly convinced that only cork gaskets are ever acceptable. They do conform better, and you are probably not going to remove them again. Use a thin layer of silicone sealer on the cover, set the gaskets in place, and set the covers, gasket side down, on a flat surface to dry. Lacking an inch/lb torgue wrench, use a nut driver with a screwdriver sized handle, and give them a pretty good twist. Again, that is my Old F$%^& method.
Good Luck
Larry
I am old, so I grew up firmly convinced that only cork gaskets are ever acceptable. They do conform better, and you are probably not going to remove them again. Use a thin layer of silicone sealer on the cover, set the gaskets in place, and set the covers, gasket side down, on a flat surface to dry. Lacking an inch/lb torgue wrench, use a nut driver with a screwdriver sized handle, and give them a pretty good twist. Again, that is my Old F$%^& method.
Good Luck
Larry
Thanks, Looks like some good advice to get me going on another little project. Didn't even think about a torque wrench for valve covers. Us carpenters don't check the torque when we nail stuff together.

i learned the hard way about torquing the valve cover nuts down.
i overtightened mine and crushed the gasket and they leaked like crazy. my method of wrenching is to tighten it until it breaks then back it off a quarter turn.
don't forget to replace the gaskets.
i overtightened mine and crushed the gasket and they leaked like crazy. my method of wrenching is to tighten it until it breaks then back it off a quarter turn.

don't forget to replace the gaskets.
I use rtv on BOTH sides of the gaskets, I've used both cork or reinforced rubber. My concern isn't removing them again, it's sealing them FOREVER!
Use black engine enamel, and if mama lets you, pop em in the oven @ 250 degrees for 30 minutes after they dry. Lastly, sandpaper on a block cleans up the exposed fins. Mask off the black around the oil cap hole to keep from scratching there, tho. If your original crossed flags emblem survived removal rtv will hold it on fine. Or get a new one from any of the venders.
As for torqueing the bolts, I use a 1/4" ratchet with the socket extension between my middle fingers. Just what my wrist will twist is enough torque.
in Forum: C3 Engines
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