Topic: Valve cover removal
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Any tips or tricks out there for removing valve covers without damaging them? The previous owner put on some crome valve covers which I'm going to leave on for a while cause they look nice, but I want to take them off without bending the crome. I want them to have a good seal after I put them back. Any tips will help..
Thanks,
Glenn
Thanks,
Glenn
Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

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Sealer does not release very well when trying to lift it. But it does tend to shear.
Instead of trying to pry them off, hit them on the side and/or ends with a rubber hammer. Don't hit them too hard and dent the covers. This shears the sealer and they can then be lifted off.
Some sealers don't give it up no matter what. They are just stubborn. It depends on what was used when they were put on. Hardening Permatex almost requires a jackhammer. Silicone is easy.
When reinstalling covers it's not a good idea to use silicone on both sides of the gasket. This allows them to move and shift position causing leaks. This can happen several months after installation, or right away.
If you use a bonding sealer on both sides the gasket and covers are very difficult to remove.
Over many years I have developed a excellent method. Use a bonding sealer to the valve cover and place the gasket on the cover and let it set up a few minutes. I personally like Permatex High Tack. This keeps the gasket from ever walking out of position. But it is fairly easy to clean off when the cover is in your hand later.
Then put silicone sealer on the engine side of the gasket and install the cover. The silicone will do a better job of taking up the rough surfaces and slight bends or uneven spots on the head or in the cover. When removing the cover later, the silicone will shear and can be removed easily.
I have been doing this for years, and to hundreds of engines. It has never failed me. Never created a comeback. And it's easy to service in the future when needed for whatever reason.
Instead of trying to pry them off, hit them on the side and/or ends with a rubber hammer. Don't hit them too hard and dent the covers. This shears the sealer and they can then be lifted off.
Some sealers don't give it up no matter what. They are just stubborn. It depends on what was used when they were put on. Hardening Permatex almost requires a jackhammer. Silicone is easy.
When reinstalling covers it's not a good idea to use silicone on both sides of the gasket. This allows them to move and shift position causing leaks. This can happen several months after installation, or right away.
If you use a bonding sealer on both sides the gasket and covers are very difficult to remove.
Over many years I have developed a excellent method. Use a bonding sealer to the valve cover and place the gasket on the cover and let it set up a few minutes. I personally like Permatex High Tack. This keeps the gasket from ever walking out of position. But it is fairly easy to clean off when the cover is in your hand later.
Then put silicone sealer on the engine side of the gasket and install the cover. The silicone will do a better job of taking up the rough surfaces and slight bends or uneven spots on the head or in the cover. When removing the cover later, the silicone will shear and can be removed easily.
I have been doing this for years, and to hundreds of engines. It has never failed me. Never created a comeback. And it's easy to service in the future when needed for whatever reason.

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
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Chips58 said: I also use spreader bars on my SB to spread the load from the nuts over the length of the covers rather than just at the holes. |
they are worth every penny..
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HARROD, OH - USA
Joined: 7/25/2003
Posts: 335
Vette(s): 1976 - L-48 Auto, A/C, AM/FM, Power Windows, Tilt Telescopic Wheel, Factory Aluminum Wheels, Inferno Red Matalic Custom paint with Black Leather Interior.
I second the spreader bars idea. I use them and they stay tight and don't move a bit.

in Forum: C3 Engines
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