Topic: valve rubbers /valve adjustment
in Forum: C3 Engines
i have those "cups" and those rubber rings that came with the gasket set.

now i got 2 different opinions :
1- just install those "cups" and forget those rubber rings
2- i have to put those rubber rings on top of the cups.
can someone help me out of this confusion?
ohh.. further more... for right adjustment of the valves is this the right order:
nut on valve tighten so the pushrods have no "play" anymore
then first piston at TDC (ignition) and tighten the nuts of :
cylinder 1 in and exhaust valve (3/4 turn)
cylinder 3-4-8 exhaust valve
cylinder 2-5-7 intake valves
then make a 180 turn ( harmonic balancer 1 complete turn)
and then all the rest
tia
art-corvette
You have to adjust the valves when the are "neutral", IOW when the piston is at the TDC for that cylinder. You then tighten the nut to the point where it first grabs the rod but you can still move it, then tighten a half turn and you should be good.
That's the way I was taught a couple nights ago and it seems to work great.
Lifetime Member #73
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A lot of folks will only put the seals on the intake valves, but I prefer putting them on ALL of the valves.
I don't have my chart here, and I can't remember which valves to adjust when doing the 180deg. method.

It's best to just do one cylinder at a time. Adjust the intakes when the exhaust valve is just starting to open. Adjust the exhaust valves when the intake is just starting to close.
1/2 turn past "touching" should be just right.
Joel Adams
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i got the blue/black umbrella kind from a chevy engine rebuilder who told me to put the blue ones on the intake and the black on the exhaust valves.... and i could use those useless o-rings from the gasket kit as .. hmm.. how do i say.. somekind of cushion/bumper on top of the others...
the life of a corvette rebuilder is not easy

art-corvette

Moderator

The blue ones pictured are designed to be pressed onto the valve guides, and sometimes that requires machining. They also will rub the valve as it moves up & down, which causes it to wear quicker.
The black, umbreller ones just stick on the valve, and move with it. They will get hard over time, but other than that, they work great.

I can't believe an engine builder would suggest using the o-rings on top of the other seals as "cushions"...

Joel Adams
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Don't know if they are available by themselves at the parts house, tho.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
It's best to just do one cylinder at a time. Adjust the intakes when the exhaust valve is just starting to open. Adjust the exhaust valves when the intake is just starting to close.
1/2 turn past "touching" should be just right.[/QUOTE]
hmm. . reading this again i see that have adjusted the exhaust valve when intake valve is just starting to OPEN... .. did i go wrong here or doesn't it matter (i thought exhaust valve is in neutral then too?? )
anway.. i have done 8 valves sofar.. takes some patience for sure

here is the result of what i found on old rings so far:

some were "squeezed/twisted " a little.. one ( on an intake) was even broken .
hope replacing these rings solves the oilconsumption of the engine

art-corvette

Moderator




Looks like they have all been pinched by the valve retainers!! If this happened with the cheesy o-ring seals, then umbrella seals will get even more damage, as they are thicker! You really need to check the height of your valves. They may be too short for the heads, or you may have had the adjustments too tight, and they were bottoming out on the seals. Or...you may be running too high a rocker arm ratio for the heads. Do you know what you have? 1.5 is the stock ratio, I think. If you are using 1.6, or even 1.7, it may be too much lift, and the retainers are bottoming.
With the intake valve just starting to open, the exhaust valve will still be slightly open! Remember, the intake opens after the exhaust stroke. This is called "overlap".

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
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Looks like they have all been pinched by the valve retainers!! If this happened with the cheesy o-ring seals, then umbrella seals will get even more damage, as they are thicker! You really need to check the height of your valves. They may be too short for the heads, or you may have had the adjustments too tight, and they were bottoming out on the seals. Or...you may be running too high a rocker arm ratio for the heads. Do you know what you have? 1.5 is the stock ratio, I think. If you are using 1.6, or even 1.7, it may be too much lift, and the retainers are bottoming.
[/QUOTE]
hmm. more homework to do .. i have no idea about these things since this is how i bought the car.....i thought valves etc were still the original.. only they had put in an edelbrock prerformer cam.... and i guess to find out about the valve i need to take the heads off

that rocker arm ratio.. what is that and how to find that out?

thankz
art-corvette