I plan on doing my seals this weekend, and I also found some useful info, pretty much what was posted here, but this below site has a few pictures. With all the help in these posts it should be a fairly easy task... would one reccomend measuring spring height and the pushrods while they are out. How about just replacing the valve springs for extra measure... I have 63 K on a '73.

I once had a '69 350/350 that broke a valve spring and the valve dropped in and you know the rest of the story

http://www.spectracreations.com/corvette-101/valvestem.htm

The springs are not that expensive, and cheap insurance.  Plus, you may get better top end.  The spings get weaker over time, and may not be as responsive as the should be, causing a bit of valve float at high RPM.

ah yes, the valve seal job is one of my favorites. A little air, A good spring compressor, and a couple of hours and your done.

which style of seals did you use? 

[/QUOTE]

The adapter to provide air to the cylinder must a specialty item not found at your local tool shop, right?.......Matco or Snap-on website maybe.

JR

[QUOTE=kstyer]You can buy it from those suppliers, or just make one yourself.  It's not that hard to do.[/QUOTE]

I better stick to the store-bought kind, I got enough problems  

Thanks, Bossman!

JR

Thanks for the good tips....will try.

JR

How many PSI required from the compressor ?

Oh and BTW, that link above explains it well but I'm still a bit apprehensive about the adjust the lash part of the thing. I've never done this before and it worries me A LOT. 

 I'm scared I won't loosen it enough or too much.

The valve adjustment in the article is the exact way I do it with a new set of lifters.  But it does not always work with used lifters.  You may need them just a bit looser.  With used lifters I always use the engine running method.

The lifter will allow two full turns of the rocker nut from top to bottom of it's travel.  One turn puts the adjustment right in the middle of the lifter.   But used lifters build sludge and wear patterns.  They might hold the valve open a bit and create rough idle and or misfire if that happens.

The alternative running method is to start the car with the valve covers off.  Make sure you plugged all the vacuum lines etc.   Tighten any very noisy lifter by tightening the rocker nuts.  Once you get them all relatively quiet, start the actual adjustment.

Back off the rocker nut until the lifter is making a lot of noise.  Allow it to run this way for maybe 15 seconds to allow the lifter to fill with oil.   Now tighten it down slowly until the clicking noise stops.  Now SLOWLY go another 1//4 turn.  Let the engine run for a few seconds, and tighten it another 1/4 turn.  Repeat twice more until you have the one full turn.  If the engine starts to misfire, stop tightening and wait.  If the lifter pumps down, the engine will smooth out.  Then you can keep shooting for that one full turn.  If it won't smooth out, loosen the lifter slightly until it does, and leave it there.

You will get oil on things. It will leak on the exhaust manifolds and create a lot of smoke.  If you rev the engine very much you will get oil on EVERYTHING!  There are aftermarket tools available to clip on the rockers to stop a lot of the mess.

Do all sixteen valves, and then put the covers back on.

Ken,

 I run 100 PSI and had no problem... when connected it cranked the engine over...

Another trick I use for putting spark plugs back in is.. I use a piece of hose over the insulator... seems trying to start them by finger or socket is a problem... this works great for me... and you wont crossthread and after it's started you can pull the hose off and tighten it... use as log a piece as you need, but about 6-8" works for me..