thanx. No more wiser.Put vacuum gauge at manifold and at idle is about 18 , reving 2500 it is steady 24.

Ok , ground engine.But can a engine start that easy and not having good ground for ignition ?

Catalyst ? collapsing exhausts? i just have side pipes as the originals making enough noise . Ok, up till 3000 rpms....

2 things are not clear to me from today :
1) the coil + is connected with 2 wires : one gives car voltage , increasing with revs from alternator , the other does nothing, also NO voltage during crancking .

2)can it be that 3000 rpms are about max mechanical advance ? and at that point problems start ???? but weights and springs are again the originals when all went well...???

spooooky !

Baryy/Norbert, it is apparent you have a problem with the coil+ voltage @ higher rpms. Take a jumper wire, and go from the back of the alt(+) to the + side of the coil. Take the other wires on the + side completely loose from the coil. See what happens then. If the problem goes away, then there is definitely a problem with the resistor wire from the ign. switch to the coil. If this is the problem, the easiest way for you to correct it would be to wire in a ceramic type resistor in the + side of the coil from the ign. switch. Many older Chrysler cars were set up this way.
The resistor wire may be killing the voltage to the coil as the rpms rise, because the coil is requiring the full voltage available at that speed. If the resistor is faulty, the voltage will not make it to the coil, and this could be the problem.
You may need to unplug the firewall wiring connector, and see if there is any corrosion in there. That would create a low volatage situation, also.

Sorry guys ,here i'm again.......
What did whe do today :
-checked battery-chassis cable and chassis -engine.Ground OK.
-put a jumper wire from +alternator to +coil.Also checked wiring at firewall connector and fuses.test driving there was a litle improvement.I could get 4000 rpms but pufpufs.
without that jumper i have 8V +coil , with 12 V .Feeled coil after test drive and i find it rather hot.( almost no toucheable with hands.)It's a new ACCEL , on the coil there is mentioned 12V.
For those who try this remember you cannot turn engine off once running with that jumper wire ! You need to interrupt that wire !
So far no better.

I find that discoloring was different on the primary tubes of the headers.So i let engine idle at 2500 rpms and in the dark i see the tubes go glowing red except sure nr 1 and +/- nr 3 ! ,so the first 2 on driver side.
checked compression of nr 1 and nr 8 and both give 12 bars  just crancking  a few turns.Does this mean a compression of 1:12  or is running compression lower ?  or just higher ????

Now for that different coloring : just checked also the valve-rockers moving and they seem ok compared tho the others.
i have a Weiand 8004 , so dual plenum, a Holley 4 barrel.Doesn't that mean that every primary barrel of the 2  is feeding 4 cilinders ? as if later every secondary ? so i tought if 1 primary side where not working there should be 4 exhaust tubes with no discoloring??

OR , are the glowing ones not normal????? i don't know......

And still i have faith to find it .....sorry for comming back here with my doubts....

thanx for advise or idees.

 

I would still like to know what the dwell and vacuum gauges read if you have them hooked up while running down the road.

The car has to be under load to get it to act up, does it not?

You would be watching for a big change in dwell. The puff-puff I think is the engine backfiring through the carb, am I right?

Engine torque will lift the engine, that's why I thought a wire connector might be pulled enough to break contact. I have seen that also happen with a fuel line going to the fuel pump from the frame, causing it to suck some air making it starving for fuel at higher RPMs.         

Do you have headers? If you do, it's possible the burnt a wire or boot, but I think you said you checked that already.

I hope you can find the problem.

Good luck and good hunting,

Denny

Barry...

You are geting WAY too theoretical on us now.... go fix your car, June will be here in Pigeon Forge before long and you won't be there...

I guess 12 bars is 12:1 compression.... that's 176 PSI over here, pretty high compression but that is not what is causing the pufpufpufpuf... I'm afraid..

Dave

We posted about the same time, sorry, I type very slow!

I think you better do a compression check on all the cylinders, record them and let us see the figures in PSI if you can, some of us old guys can't relate to BARS. 

Denny

thanx Denny and Dave.I don't think its backfiring trough the carb.No , just some minor pupufs from exhaust.Checked dwell idling and is 30� , becoming 28-26 with reving engine.
Forgot to mention : with the jumper wire on , there is a increase of 2� dwell showed on the meter.
Good idee Denny , i 'l wire dwell and vacuum gauge up in the car so i can read it driving trough that 3000 rpm wall... did it with fuel pressure but as mentioned that kept 0.4 bars very steady.
 
the headers clear well the wires and boots and they are even new now.....

 

Denny,

A bar is BARometric pressure, 14.7 psi. Correct me if I'm wrong Barry, but 1 bar is atmosphere that we call zero psig (g=gauge), 12 bar might actually be 12 x 14.7 = 176.4 psi less the atmosphere of 14.7 making the actual compression reading 161.7 psi, which sounds more normal.

I think a gauge reading in bar starts at 1 bar where our psig reading starts at zero. Barry, am I correct to say a bar gauge starts at 1 bar??

Talk about theoretical........

pufpufpufpufpuf.......

DaveAutom8r38810.6859722222

Dave,

I thought a puff was a carb, and putt was exhaust?????

Denny

[QUOTE=Autom8r]Denny,

A bar is BARometric pressure, 14.7 psi. Correct me if I'm wrong Barry, but 1 bar is atmosphere that we call zero psig (g=gauge), 12 bar might actually be 12 x 14.7 = 176.4 psi less the atmosphere of 14.7 making the actual compression reading 161.7 psi, which sounds more normal.

I think a gauge reading in bar starts at 1 bar where our psig reading starts at zero. Barry, am I correct to say a bar gauge starts at 1 bar??

Talk about theoretical........

pufpufpufpufpuf.......

Dave[/QUOTE]

I don't think so, that is I believe the bar gauge starts at zero. In one of his posts he mentioned .4 bars of fuel pressure, so that would be almost 6 PSIG fuel pressure. Remember we are talking about gauge pressure, not absolute.

Big Fish38810.7061921296