When you get the new oil pump, remove the bottom plate, and flat sand it, to make SURE it is perfectly flat. Do the same with the bottom of the pump itself. You'd be surprised at how many are warped beyond recognition. Then put a small amount of a light grease(lubriplate works well) on the pump gears, inside the pump housing, and on the bottom plate before re-assembling it. This will ensure the pump will pick up oil instantly when you first fire it up, as well as provide some lubrication to an otherwise DRY oil pump, on start-up.

If you want to verify the outer ring on the balancer, get the #1 piston up on Top Dead Center on the compression stroke, and check the marks. The groove/line on the balancer should be aligned EXACTLY on the "0", or "V" on the timing tab. If it's just a wee bit off, it could simply be the tab is bent, or something like that. If it is off more than a few degrees, the outer ring has moved. Of course, if the rubber is cracked all to hades, you should go ahead and replace it..."while you're there".

Joel - Will do on the new oil pump and the balancer, keep the tips coming !! Wow, Summit Racing just made the top of my preferred vendor's list. Online order placed late Wednesday night about midnight PST, the complete shipment from their Sparks NV warehouse arrived at my door this morning !!

|UPDATED|4/17/2015 11:58:33 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

John, You are right about Summit Racing. I use them a lot for the various cars I work on. Living in southern Oregon I usually get my parts from them the next day. Their customer service is No.1, at least in the Sparks Dist. Center. 

Thats what i said too and look what happened to me.

a-man    been there  don't want to go back   dwa

Cindy - been there, done that (twice), looks like your doing a great job !! I am desperately trying to keep the body on and engine in this one. Keep us posted on your progress. What your current ETA on completion ??

So its been a couple weeks since I started my water pump to rear main seal project and I thought I'd post some pics and an update. Overall the project has gone smooth, really smooth. Things were pretty dirty and grimey, but no major problems during the tear down. Nothing busted, stripped or otherwise threw a monkey wrench into the works. I've been taking my time, cleaning, tagging and bagging everything for easy re-assembly. The only real issues I've had so far were some new parts that were close, but required some exchange.




|UPDATED|5/22/2015 12:12:32 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

The 40769 fuel pump is correct for the car. Same pump was/is used for several year/car models....very common pump.
Looking good!!

Hey Joel, thanks for confirming the fuel pump P/N. I also did some digging and found date code information on the NCRS website - the 305L preceeding the P/N is the Julian date code for the pump. 305 = October 31st, L = 1972, both are perfect for my December 13th, 1972 car !!

Wow looks great, sadly I'm a long way from where you are.  Just finished seeding so hopefully get to sandblasting the frame in June.My hopes are to have suspension all back on car this fall, I do have some of it all redone and just waiting for frame so I can continue.  On the other hand I have been working on my 92, just back from shop where i had the cracks fixed on fenders and a paint job.  Looks like previous owner had fender flares on it and did a poor job of fixing the holes, hence the cracks, now I'm hoping to replace front and rear seal as it has developed oil leaks and that drives me crazy.  Not going to do that I will take it to a shop some things are just worth paying for when you don't have a hoist to work on these cars.