I have been having starting problems with my 70.  The starter does not turn the engine over.  It is an intermitant problem .  At times when you try to start the engine nothing happens.  No clicking absolutely nothing.  It does not matter if the engine is hot or cold. 

 

I have noticed that the amp gauge shows a major discharge when the key is turned to the start position, but other than that there are no other indications.  You can come back to the car several hours later after doing nothing and everything is fine.  When it starts it turns over very good.

 

I have replace the starter and battery thinking that was where the he problem was, but neither helped.

 

I am open to any and all ideas - Thanks Marty

Check all connections. A car that old may have enough corrosion to cause a problem, or a bad cable altogether.

Don't overlook a defective starter or solenoid, even if they have been replaced. You need to do a draw test and see what the starter is drawing...don't rely strictly on the ammeter.

Assembly line rebuilt starters are rebuilt to a general specification...small block Chevies. That means they should fit in most all Chevy applications, but not all applications include high compression engines and that alone requires a higher torque unit.

Another possibility, though probably remote is that the timing is too far advanced and the engine is working against itself trying to start. Check your distributor hold down bolt and make sure it hasn't worked loose, allowing the distrubutor to turn.

Could also be your neutral saftey swith if there is no power getting  to the starter at times. If it is loose, it will not let the starter turn over if the selector is slightly into the reverse zone of the switch. It could also just be going bad.

Thanks to both of you.  I have tried the neutral safety switch thing, but no use.  I'll look for a loose cable.

The Ford solenoid trick is good for heat soak issues, mostly on Big blocks, but it works very well for any engine in tight confines, and not much cool air circulating. I've done MANY of these on race engines, both in cars, and boats.
I would confirm all of the cables/connections are good first, then start looking for other problem areas.

If the amp gauge is showing full discharge, but you are not getting a click, or anything out of the starter, it is definitely starter related, most likely the solenoid. You say you replaced the starter, but did you replace the solenoid, also? It may seem like a silly question, but...

joel, isn't the selenoid on the starter in gm cars and don't they usually come with a new starter? anyway just an opinion on my part it sounds like a bad connection or wire.  have known a few people that had bad ground or a bad negative battery cable causing starting problems.
eddie208752007-01-06 19:20:23

Well, they normally DO come with solenoids, but it really depends on WHERE the starter came from. I've bought them with and without solenoids. (This is why I said it may seem like a silly kweschun! )

Check the wiring harness going to the starter. There are 2 fuseable links that can corrode, or just plain deteriorate. I have replaced mine, and I was surprised that I didn't have problems, the way this thing looked.

The started came with the solenoid.  About 10 years ago I had to replace the fuseable link near the starter.  I was concerned with the way it looked and just replaced it. 

I had a '77 in the shop recently that had an intermittent no-start after we worked on it. It turned out to be a fuse link, it just wasn't completely burned thru. There were other items on the car that didn't work when the no-start occurred, and that's what led me to the fuse link. If you wiggled it, it would start.