I'm starting to look for my first vette, and what I want is a 68-70 big block, convertible, 4-spd. car. What I don't want is a $30,000 car, I want one that needs some work but runs and isn't a basket case, what should I look at paying for a car like this???
Thanks Randall

I don't know much about the 70, but do know quite a bit about the 68 and 69. I have a late 68 big block. If interested in the 68 or 69,try and get a later 68 or 69. The early 68's had quality control problems, but then again you may be able to pick one up cheaper. A 427 numbers matching car will run anywhere from 17,000 to $35,000. The tri-carb 435 hp and 400 hp bring a premium. If you're trying to save some money, look for a 390 hp. I've seen basket cases running $9,000, but I think you can pick one that needs some work or may not have an original engine for $14,000 to $19,000. I would make sure you got a big block car. One way to tell is if it has an original rear sway bar. Small block cars did not come with the rear sway bar unless the F-41 suspension was ordered. Just because it has a big block hood on the car doesn't mean its an original big block car. Also, if it has the L88 hood, then you really need to look the car over, as there are no original L88's out there in most people's price ranges.

I'd suggest you log on to e-bay and track the process on several cars for a while. See what their selling for, etc. If you find one your interested in, then let us know and we'll all be glad to answer any questions you have regarding numbers, etc. I have all the books to help you out with.

Mark

Well risking the wrath of the purists matching numbers is NOT a problem, but how do I tell if it's a later made 68?

On the A pillar (drivers door) by the cowl area there will be a metal tag. It has the interior, exterior codes and the date the car was built. The build date will have a letter and then a number. The letter denotes the month built. A = August 67, B = Sept 67 and so on. F = January 68 etc. Also look at the serial number of the car. I think anything with a production number after 12,800 would be considered a mid-to late production car. Also an early 427 usually has a block casting number of 3916321, where a later one has 3936439. This number is located on the block above the transmission bell housing You can tell the casting date of the block by looking on the passenger side of the block. The casting date will be upside down. The codes are different from the production date of the car. In this case A278 would equal January 27, 1968. On the engine pad, right front (by the front of the head) the cars partial serial number will be there along with a code that tells you what hp the engine is. It will have some numbers with two letters at the end. IL = 390 hp/4 speed. IM = 400/4 speed, IR = 435/4 speed. In the 69 model years LM = 390/4 speed, LQ = 400/4 speed, LR = 435/4 speed, LP = 435/4 speed (alum heads), LT = 435/4 speed, LU 435/4 speed (alum heads), MH 390/4 speed, MK 400/4 speed,

Hope this helps.

Mark

Hey Mark I was wondering if a car I found is worht the trouble and money? It's a 69 convertible 427/435 with 3 2's and its manual. The front end is wrecked from what the guy says its just body damage and the radiator. He wants $15000 but it comes with all the parts (brand new in the box) to fix it. Am just curious about your opinion.
Thanks Randall

Check out item number 2421315267 on e-bay. It's a 69 conv. 427/390 hp. It needs quite a bit of work. The current bid is $12,000. I personally don't feel it is worth more than the $12,000 bid. Perhaps $14,000 max. Maybe someone else will see more, but this one looks rough.

$15,000 for the tri-power car may be a pretty good deal. Doubt I would pay more. But you want to make sure its got the goodies on it. Engine block should be 3935439 up to late Dec. 1968, then 3955270 until late Jan 1969 and then 3963512. The 3963512 block goes into the 1970 year, so be sure to check the casting date on the passenger side. You want the date to be within 3 months of the cars production date. On exceptions, NCRS will go back 6 months, but you need documentation. If this guy has the protecto plate in the warranty book, you can look for the engine code. That will really show that it is a tri-power car. Look for 7 digit number on the engine pad that matchs the protect o plate. You especially want to look for the letters LR, LP, LT,LU. These are 435 hp codes. It could be a 400 hp tri power as well, which is not a bad deal.

Here are numbers to look for.
435HP 400HP
Heads 3919840 3931063
Alum. Intake 3937797 3937795
Holley Carbs 3940929 Center same
3902353 front & rear same

Also, a true 435 HP engine will have a transistorized ignition. look for an amp mounted inside the drivers side fender. The distributer should have #1111928.
Look for a metal band around the distributor, that is where the number is. Also, very important is look at the tach. A true 435 HP will have a red line on the tach at 6500. A 400HP or 390 HP will have a redline at 5600. If not one of these two, then its not a big block car.

If the car has these goodies, then $15,000 isn't bad, as you have something to work with and a nicely restored tri-carb can bring up to $30,000/$35,000 without original paper work. Hope this helps.

Mark

P.S. If the car has air cond., then its not a 435HP car, as A/C was not available on the 435HP.

|UPDATED|6/30/2003 6:05:45 PM|/UPDATED|

xlegionaire said: Hey Mark I was wondering if a car I found is worht the trouble and money? It's a 69 convertible 427/435 with 3 2's and its manual. The front end is wrecked from what the guy says its just body damage and the radiator. He wants $15000 but it comes with all the parts (brand new in the box) to fix it. Am just curious about your opinion. Thanks Randall

I sent you a im message about this car,
I was wondering what you were doing, did you pass it up do you have contact info on the owner email?
pictures maybe?

Im interested in it

thanks

johnny