I just signed up today because i've been searching everywhere for an answer. I a guy who has this 1968 roadster for sale. the console says 427, 400 horse, 10.5 cr . He says the car is an original 427 tripower 400 horse car. no options, that I can see. The engine is now some crap 350 with side pipes, I only got a quick peek at the car, Needs work but how do I know if i'm buying a big block car or a sb. The door tag said trim 414, paint 975. It's been repainted but still looks like the original color even though I couldn't find 975 as a paint code in the corvette black book. the vin # is 19A4678s402775. Whenever i put the (a) in the decoder it comes back invalid so when i run without it doesn't give me much. The car runs and drives and for what i've seen the bb 1968 roadsters going for as projects i think it's a good deal even with the 350.But I have a Tripower setup from a 1968 corvette and figured it was about time I bought the car it belonged in. But How do I know. PLEASE HELP A CORVETTE CLUELESS PERSON.

Hi . First , 68's had no info on the console shift plate-- That shift plate must be out of a '69 up Vette---- and any "tag" could have been installed . The serial # should read 194678s40**** . The last 4 numbers you gave tells us the Vette was built in late Oct. of 1967 --- The trim tag has a build code on it --- try to get that too . 975 is a 1970 paint code for maroon . when you get the body trim tag build date code we can figure that out . The Oct./67 serial # indicates an early production car , so a few things to look for are the location of the seat back releases (lower for early) , use of two piece receptical for the soft top pins at the windshield headder . Do the doors have "push buttons" like a passenger car ? '68's only had these . You need to get the info from the rear end housing --- these were date coded and suffix coded . This would tell us if the rear is correct and if it is for a big block car . The radiator and radiator support can also lend a clue . Can you get photos of these ? The radiator should have a tag on it . The shroud for a big block is fiberglass--- small block is metal . Does it have the big block hood ? '68 BB hoods had a few differences-- location of the hood prop , configuration of the hood release cable , and the upper latches were different --- can you get photos of these ? All BB's had the rear sway bar and the larger front sway bar . Have you asked if the tank sticker is still there ? Any other paper work , owner history ? What's the asking price ? Without the engine , and without paper work , I wouldn't pay any more for the car because it was "thought" to be a big block . Hope this hels a little , and try to get more info/photos . G.

Watch out, man. I smell fish on this one. Like geopar said, you have to check this one out thoroughly before handing over anything close to bigblock cheese. A "427 car" without the 427 ain't really a big block car. Unless the current owner has the original motor (with the matching VIN on the code pad, I wouldn't pay any more for this car than I would for a non-matching 350. Remember, "A car is original once. PERIOD."

Get the numbers off the rear-end and get the numbers off the windows (sides and rear). If all the glass numbers match the car, that says alot about how good a life the car has lived. Two out of three ain't bad.

Post any other numbers you can find. We're happy to help.

John

Check the tach and see where it redlines at. Let us know and that is a good clue which engine it had in the car. Also, if it has the aluminum radiator overflow tank, that is a clue the car was a small block. No big blocks in 68 had the overflow tank except the rare L88 engine.

Mark

I dont see why its really an issue other than you get a better baseline vehicle with a big block (the aforementioned sway bars, etc.) unless the 427/tripower you have has a matching VIN the point is moot. it will never have matching numbers..

i did see a place on the internet cast would "re stamp" your engine to match your VIN... but thats really cheating.

here is a site with axle codes to see if they match up

http://www.lpcinc.us/axlecodes.htm

i believe the HD (heavy duty) is only in BB cars...

crawl under the car look on the differential casing in front of the leaf spring.

Thanks for all the help so far, i am going to try and get over to check out this car, I'll check the rear codes, the radiator, the hood area and find out what the hell is going on with the car. I got a feeling this car may be a ripoff, he wants bb dough for it. I know it will nver be NCRS original but i wanted to make it a good looking codes matching original. Numbers maybe, with the right stamps , but hell we all know thats not fair. Imagine being at a show and your original block parks next to you in a ratrod. OOOOPs.
I will post pictures and more info as soon as it becomes available, Thanks for everyones help. One more question. He wants 12K for it, runs drives, top is a soft top not in bad shape, hood has bubbles, some chips but great at 50 feet. interior a little faded but 7-8 out of 10, chrome good. Tired 350, tranny isn't shifting fast, ( auto) . beat sidepipes. Frame not bad, from what i can see. sidepipes were hot and he didn't want to take it to a garage. ( old guy, pain in the ass) you know the type. he remembers when they were new yada yada yada. IS it worth buying for the price. Could I dump it if i NEEDED TO. Thanks again for all the replies

without at least an original casting number matching BB in it... he shouldnt be asking the BB price.

Kinda like this one?

http://www.c3vr.com/vrforums/message_go.asp?MID=38422

not necessarily, is he asking a BB price ?

as i mentioned in this thread your baseline car is a little better.. mainly the suspension ... but without at least a casting number matching engine, its just any
other vette (if there is such a thing)

without a build sheet or matching VIN's you have to rely on casting numbers and date codes.

you can buy a BB junker that someone totalled and take the rear end, transmission, and sway bars off of it and put it on a base model 350/300 car and say it is a big block car. sure there a few other items like fan shroud and radiator but if one had a BB junker and a SB daily driver, you could be completely fooled.. often times a daily driver has enough stuff changed that you really dont have any idea what it's from.

what if your radiator blows up while you are out of town... when you limp it in to the radiator shop do you take the first radiator that fits or wait a week for the "correct" radiator... you take the first available and keep your original swearing to rebuild it right one day.

its very easy to see how an "originally BB" car could have a SB radiator.