I agree with Dave. If the 71 has a good frame; body, and engine, I would be all over it for that kind of money. This is without a doubt the best forum in the world for C3s. These guys are the best of the best when it comes to knowledge of these cars. I would highly recommend joining even of you don't currently own a C3. The resources here are worth every penny. You will not regret it for a minute.
Welcome aboard,
Scott

There is nothing negative about a '71 that you need to know. It was the first year Chevy started to "detune", so it should run just fine on pump gas. Also, it was the last year for fiber optics - make sure those work OK. I'm having a blast with mine, and if the one you want to look at has fairly low mileage, that is an especially good price as long as everything else is in reasonably good shape.

Here's what I got so far:

• Original paint was grey and repainted red in 1979
• Engine is 350cu 200hp Manual trans
• needs a tune up
• interior is in excellent shape
• no rust anywhere
• doors open and close like new, they don't drop
• new bf goodrich tires
• needs brakes and calipers
• original radio has been replaced by aftermarket
• chrome is original and in good condition
• has original documentation from GM
• mileage is unknown(not sure what that means
• car was inspected this year.

The car is located 5 hours from civilization(not joking!)  there is nothing nearby and I can't tow it to my place. He told me that the car is not drivable, it has no brakes and they have to be replaced on the spot. It has been stored for 4 years in a barn in back of a farmhouse.

one more thing. It has a 200hp engine. tfidas2007-02-07 18:45:50

One of the 350s was 270HP not 300. I am curious as to why he thinks it is worth 30k. If it was an original LT1 or big block it would be worth a lot but a low power SB, with a repaint(color change) that needs brakes: probably calipers and lines and possibly a master cylinder is not worth 30K. I would also be concerned about wheel bearings and trailing arms. If everything else is good I would probably go 13K IF I knew the approximate mileage and at least some history on the car. It may be a great car.. it is tough to evaluate without being there to see it. If I were you I would certainly think about it.
Good Luck,
Scott
ranger32007-02-07 19:06:41

He's asking 12,000 cdn which is equivalent to about 9,500us. I wish I could bring some of you guys with me to see it!!

tfi,

Jump on it! I still think that's a bargain. New brakes are simple to install in a couple of hours. Getting the old ones off is another story, plan on all weekend, or if you're lucky, all day for someone doing it the first time...... All the brake parts should be readily available at NAPA, AutoZone, O'Reilly's or Advance Auto Parts. Get EVERYTHING, calipers, pads, rotors, hoses, and solid lines. A new master cylinder wouldn't hurt and is pretty cheap. After sitting as long as it appears to have the brakes on these things are almost always shot. You will also likely need a new vacuum booster , but that can wait till you get home if you have a strong right leg.

The pix of the car look great!!! Any time you buy an old 'Vette, plan on a lifetime project! I'd give $9,500.00us for it in a heartbeat and somehow figger out a way to get it home, if I was in the market for any more moving parts (which I definitely am NOT). I have a 2 pals with trucking companies in and around Picton who may be able to help you get it home or find someone who can. If you want I can PM you his phone number. The other is a member of C3VR..

The car is not worth 30 grand, but is definitely worth 10 (which you will have in it by the time it is driveable).

DaveAutom8r2007-02-08 10:10:12

Is that an HEI distributor sitting on top of the engine?  I thought 71's had points/plugs/condensers.  Would lead me to check the numbers on the engine really close.

Also, be careful of the Auto Zone calipers.  You want to make sure you use stainless steel calipers, not the crap they sell on the low end if you want to keep the car.  Definitely go with the braided steel hoses.

If he will let you, jack up the rear of the car and pull/push on the tires top and bottom.  If there is movement, I'd be careful trying to drive it home.  If a rear bearing goes, so goes the rear quarter panel.

dnv is right, you gotta check out the rear wheel bearings with the test. My original mutt had that problem and it cost a bundle at a rip-off place, before I joined C3VR and knew NOTHING about 'Vettes, that was reccomenced by an ex-friend.

At that price, if you are not looking for NCRS originality, I wouldn't sweat the engine numbers match. If it didn't run OK, I'd yank it and drop in a GMPP ZZ-4...... To me the fun of a 'Vett is driving it!! HARD....

Dave
(who doesn't have much original stuff left on his '78)

ABSOLUTELY!!!  Autom8r is dead on!  Mine isn't a numbers match and to me, it is a more fun car cause I can work on it, personalize it and not be afraid to drive it.

If you are mechanically inclined at all and it is not rotted out underneath, I know I would definitely go for it.  It's a much better deal than I think I got on mine and I wouldn't trade her for a numbers match just like her.