A while back I built a 383 for my '72 Chevelle using a ' crate motor ' long block.  I drove the car for about 1000 miles and then put it on a dyno.  It promptly blew up.  A sleeve in the ' premium ' block lifted and bye-bye birdie.  Anyhow, I really liked the way the car performed and decided to build my own 383 using the 'right stuff'.  Well, life happened, I was offered a small block 434 and that is what is in the Chevelle now.  I still have all the stuff I was going to use for the 383.  I am offering this to the registry members first cause I know that many of the C3 Vettes are kinda lacking in performance.

   I have a seasoned standard 350 block.  That means it is a 'used' block that has never been over-bored.  This is good because once it is machined, it should remain at the new blueprinted dimensions with no worries about dimension changes from heat cycles.  It is a 4 bolt main (good for strength).  It will have a forged Eagle stroker crank.  Standard I beam rods.  Speed pro flat top pistons.  The block will be bored, honed, decked, aligned honed and rotating assembly balanced by R&W Machines.

   The heads are factory iron heads that have been ported and polished by Spyder Prep Racing Heads.  Spyder Prep will also do the assembly work which includes blueprinting the motor.  All new Clevite 77 bearing will be used.  The compression should fall in right around 10.0:1 which I what my other 383 ran and it was fine on pump gas.  As a side note, my 468 big block Vette runs 10.0:1 and runs just fine on pump gas.

   The cam is a hydrolic roller ground by Predator cams.  Specs are:

duration   233 / 236

lobe seperation   106 / 114

lift  538 / 544

As you can see, this is a fairly mild cam.  The motor will (or at least should ) make around 420-425 HP and roughly the same torque at under 6000 rpm.

   I will put an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake with Endurashine on it with a Holley 770 Street Avenger with vacuum secondary.

   Things like valve covers, starter motors and water pumps are not included because they are usually  personal choice items due to looks or whether or not you want to use V-belt or serpentine pully system.  The distributor is also a personal type thing.  You may want a nice billet unit or a period correct unit with a vacuum advance on it.  It doesn't need a vacuum advance to run right.  Run the motor at 2600 rpm, and set the timing to between 36-38 degrees and then fine tune for performance.

   The shops around here that have an engine dyno want $850 so if you want a dyno sheet, it will cost an additional $850.

   I have to get $4400.00 plus shipping.  I know that sounds like a lot but you have to look at what you are getting.  The motor is being built by two shops that have been in this area for many years.  Spyder Prep has dozens of cars with their name on them running at Maple Grove,Penna., Cecil County,MD. and Englistown, N.J. every weekend.  His motors have many class titles and one of his motors won 'True Street' last summer at Maple Grove.  Spyder's motors have to be good because his LOCAL competition for hand built motors are John Force, Grumpy Jenkins and Pat Musey let alone all the crate motors.

   Hope to hear from any of you who want or need a great street motor!

Glenn (glenns)

 

Yep I do!    Welcome back to "home"...!!!