Topic: 1980 Corvette stops running
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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Just seeing the fuel in the carb is not enough. It is pumping quite a bit with a load. Also the fuel filter may appear clear but may not be. Did you try to blow through it? I tried mine and wondered how to fuel could pass when I tried the new one. Doesn't taste too good and but I never claimed to be too smart.
71Shark 2007-10-30 16:27:51
Also, someone may have installed an inline filter as well.
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
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Damn! I posted a response to this earlier today! Mustta got lost in cyber-space!
I was kinda thinking maybe jumped timing for a while, after reading the update, but...maybe not.
Tim is right in the fuel squirting out of the carb has to be a strong, steady steam...not just a spit. It's the heat thing that keeps me going back to an ign problem. If the carb was low/empty of fuel, it wouldn't fill up after sitting for a few minutes...it either has fuel when it dies, or it don't. I think you have a weak spark, from the coil. You say you changed the module, but what about the coil? This is starting to sound like a classic case of GM coil failure.
You may try to test the spark when it dies. If you have a spare plug, any plug will do, start the car and let it run until it dies. Then quickly pull the easiest plug wire to get to off, and stick the spare plug in the wire, and hold it tightly against the exhaust manifold, while someone else cranks it over. You should see a nice, blue spark jump across the gap. If it is a faint yellow color, or no spark at all, you've found the problem. (You can also buy a cheapo spark tester at most parts houses, that will do the same thing.) Unless, of course, you replaced the ign. module with another bad one, which happens more than you might think.
Also, when replacing the HEI modules, be sure to spread the gooey grease stuff over the entire bottom of the module before bolting it onto the dist. This is a heat sink grease, that helps transfer the module heat to the dist. Without this grease, the module will fail.
I'm going with a bad coil, module, or pole-piece(pick-up)
(dam spel-chek!
)Adams' Apple 2007-10-30 19:25:04

I was kinda thinking maybe jumped timing for a while, after reading the update, but...maybe not.

You may try to test the spark when it dies. If you have a spare plug, any plug will do, start the car and let it run until it dies. Then quickly pull the easiest plug wire to get to off, and stick the spare plug in the wire, and hold it tightly against the exhaust manifold, while someone else cranks it over. You should see a nice, blue spark jump across the gap. If it is a faint yellow color, or no spark at all, you've found the problem. (You can also buy a cheapo spark tester at most parts houses, that will do the same thing.) Unless, of course, you replaced the ign. module with another bad one, which happens more than you might think.
Also, when replacing the HEI modules, be sure to spread the gooey grease stuff over the entire bottom of the module before bolting it onto the dist. This is a heat sink grease, that helps transfer the module heat to the dist. Without this grease, the module will fail.
I'm going with a bad coil, module, or pole-piece(pick-up)

(dam spel-chek!

Joel Adams
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Don't forget,... if you suspect a fuel issue, always check the 3" fuel hose couplers ( just to the right of the gas cap) before replacing the pump. Even a pressure test is deceiving if the pickup line is sucking air. 

Jimmy B.
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I am still with ignition - Coil, Ign module.
The ign module I bought from Canadian Tire (Parts Store) had bent connectors - it was the last one they had so I had to take it as it was the last cruise night and I really wanted to go. It worked fine but you never know about the second one you picked up.
It is possible someone swapped the old one they had and returned it.
Another thought ??? - With all the trying could you have possibly flooded the engine and fouled the plugs?
Good luck.
Martin
Ok, so I replaced the coil. No improvement. Same o, same o. Stops dead. Ignition module already changed earlier. I did spead the "gooey grease" over the entire bottom.
Do I persue the fuel pump now. Then the tank filter (the tank is full
). Getting close to a tow to the $$$$ Chevy dealer.......

Thanks

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#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Get ya a large drain pan, and stick it under the fuel pump/line area on the pass. side. When it stops running, pull the rubber hose from the frame to the fuel pump off(Take the clamp off, and break the hose loose first, before starting, so it will be easy to get off.) Once it dies, pull the hose, and see if fuel comes out from the frame side of the line. If you have a steady stream of fuel, the sock filter is ok, and you may have a bad pump. If there is no fuel, or just a trickle, then you have either a stopped up sock, or a collapsed fuel hose at the tank end.
If you have an air compressor, and you find no fuel coming from the line, remove the gas cap, and blow back thru the metal line for a fews seconds. This will blow most of the crap off of the sock. If the sock is really stopped up, it might also blow the sock off completely. Either way, hook it all back up, and see how it runs then. If it seems to have corrected the problem, then out comes the sender unit, to change the sock.
It would be nice to have a pressure gauge on it, so when it does die, you'd know for sure if it was a fuel issue or not. There's just no easy way to do that without cutting the steel line from the pump to the carb, tho...or rigging up a "T" fitting on the carb inlet fitting
Adams' Apple 2007-10-31 19:09:05
If you have an air compressor, and you find no fuel coming from the line, remove the gas cap, and blow back thru the metal line for a fews seconds. This will blow most of the crap off of the sock. If the sock is really stopped up, it might also blow the sock off completely. Either way, hook it all back up, and see how it runs then. If it seems to have corrected the problem, then out comes the sender unit, to change the sock.

It would be nice to have a pressure gauge on it, so when it does die, you'd know for sure if it was a fuel issue or not. There's just no easy way to do that without cutting the steel line from the pump to the carb, tho...or rigging up a "T" fitting on the carb inlet fitting

Joel Adams
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How did you make out with this problem?
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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