Topic: Carb Choices
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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Oak Creek, WI - USA
Joined: 5/21/2008
Posts: 1965
Vette(s): 1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190 hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vettes Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!! Now own a 1998 C-5!
Well, I must be lucky. I have the quadapuke on my 350 and have had it rebuilt and it works fine. What I hear about the quadrojet is that "when it works, it works good and when it dosn't, it don't"
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Lifetime MemberWell, after 4 trips to different shops that "supposedly" carry what I need, I think I have the parts I need to make this work. Apparently, Edelbrock wants you to buy their fuel pump (about 2 - 3" shorter and clockable from the side) to fit their hose. It has nothing to do with fitting an OEM pump. Silly me, why would I think that a statement like direct bolt up and works with your existing set-up would mean it worked with OEM stuff.
Hope to get her up and going (oh yeah, Edelbrock doesn't like 5 - 6lbs fuel pressure so had to have a regulator down to 4.5lbs) by tonight.
We shall see. Can't wait to be driving again.
I run a 600 on my 64 belair 283 beater with a stock chev fuel pump with no trouble, and it puts out about 5+lbs, my buddy runs one on his roadster, with a holley pump and he put a reg on because the holley put out 7+ lbs anips 2010-07-21 20:10:51
Okie Dude,
Firstly I must remark on the choice of the hood on your '80.That is my favorite Vette hood.It reminds me of my miss spent youth when I callously drove the Vettes of that year.Great look.
I have a '80 California Vette which means it had a Q-Jet which was governed by the computer by two solenoids on the carb along with an O2 sensor.
After being in Fl. for a year the carb which operated like a champ in CA. started to take a dump here and I changed it to an Edelbrock 750 electric choke, has a fuel pressure gage which never exceeds 5lbs cold and operated at 2.5-3 psi warmed, with a stock OEM fuel pump.
I am still on the stock intake manifold, albeit I have a spacer converting from spread bore to a square bore,which made me change my mind about buying a hood like yours to accomadate the carb and spacer,however did not have the problem of space due to using the air cleaner I had, and had Spectre Corp make a 1.99 in X 12 in. K/N type air filter.
All and all everything works perfectly. I have better low end (off the line) torque than the Q-Jet,however I can foresee a top end problem after 140 MPH because of smaller secondaries in the Edelbrock than the Qjet,albeit my days of running that fast are numbered along with no place to run that fast here in Florida,unlike Interstate 5 in CA.
Good Luck on the transition from Q-Jet to Edelbrock.I must also suggest you have the brand new out of the box carb be checked thoroughly as the advertisement erroneous states "put it on right out the box",is not true.I have had brand new carbs "right out the box" air/fuel mixture screws almost closed off instead of 2.5 turns out(stock setting from Edelbrock)
Well, it's on. Fuel leaks fixed and, while still running way rich, it is much smoother than before. I have to take it in for warranty on the cracked radiator bottom neck anyway so I'll have the guys @ Loomis Automotive put the final tune on her for me.
I went with the Edelbrock fuel flow regulator, and with it choked down to 4lbs it's still rich. I'll try the 2 1/2 turns each on the air and fuel and see how that works for a start. Mine were turned almost completely out.
One more question. Is in leaning or richening?
Good Job Okie Dude,
I assume you marked on the carb completely closed after you turned the air/fuel screws in all the way without twisting too hard.There is a bottoming point and you don't want to smash the needle too far.
I don't know the elevation where you are however you should start out at 2.5 turns out to richen and turn in to lean out the carb. I have found that these carbs are sensitive to elevation and need to be set at the best setting for the altitude..You will find people who can not believe this,however here in Florida,my house is the highest elevation here abouts and is 62 ft. above sea level and my carb is turned out at 1.75 turns...
I also have friends who also have the same carbs here and had to reset them to my spec's and are very happy and vehicles perform and have good mileage as well.
Before I forget you must have the air filter in place before you adjust the air/fuel screws to do it correctly.Also if you have a vacuum gauge it would be an asset as you can see the vacuum increase as you get close to your optimum operating setting.You can also set the timing this way(with a vac gauge)when you increase the vac value to around 15-18 in. Hg. depending the cam you have.
You should set timing before you adjust carb either by timing light of vac.gauge.Start at 8 degrees BTC and get to 12-14 static if you have a vacuum advance and using it,that will get you a total of 32 - 34 total with vac and mechanical advance ...This will keep you from detonating on hard pulls.
I hope this helps and not confuse.. Have a great day..Take care.
Sal C
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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