Topic: Carb Question
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
Already a Member?
Click Here to Login
Not yet a Member?
Click Here to Register for Free!

SHELBYVILLE, TN - USA
Joined: 7/5/2002
Posts: 3942
Vette(s): 1976 L48 auto
1978 L82 4speed
1994 LT1 6speed
1978 L82 4speed
1994 LT1 6speed
Kinda have to agree with Danascar, sounds a bit like a float problem, if you had gas running out the top. Been there done that... it had one of the solid plasticky foam type floats, and it was more or less sinking in the gas... but that was a loong time ago when that happened... :)
As for the smoke... well.... not so sure there... hopefully you didn't wash out a cylinder.... as stated before(and i'm sure you know... just keep an eye on it... :) )
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
Update:
All seems to be okay now. The car starts, runs, and sounds good. My mechanic (he's been working on vettes for 40 years) said to change the fuel filter and watch it. Another mechanic friend said to run seafoam through it. No harm there. He also thinks the white smoke could have been just way WAY too much gas going through the system. I burned something like 4 gallons going through this ordeal so he could be right. I just don't know. I'm still a little nervous about it but my old-timer mechanic wasn't too concerned so I guess I shouldn't be either.
However, when the engine was rebuilt 5,000 miles back the compression was raised to 9.5:1 so I don't know if this could be the beginning of a problem. I'm half tempted to replace the head gasket on the right side during the off-season. What do you all think?
When swapping out the filter I found that there were, in fact, TWO filters. One in the carb and the other in-line. Bubba had positioned the in-line filter right next to the right head. In fact, it was actually touching the head. And, the fuel line was laying on the after-market valve cover and that valve cover had a pretty sharp edge on it. So... the fuel line was dangerously close to springing a leak. I believe a fuel filter touching the head could cause the fuel in that metal filter to boil. Thus, when I try to start I have some problems. May explain hard starting after running the car for a while.

I've been thinking of putting an inline fuel filter on my car. I'd like to put it just upstream of the gas tank in the rubber hose back there. Do I need to look for a "suck through" filter vs a "pull through"? Or does it matter.
I also want to replace my bronze fuel filters on my Holley carb with paper filters that won't transfer heat from the fuel lines. Not sure where to find these either. I have hard lines from the pump all the way to the carb.
I also want to replace my bronze fuel filters on my Holley carb with paper filters that won't transfer heat from the fuel lines. Not sure where to find these either. I have hard lines from the pump all the way to the carb.
Wow... your car is a lot like mine except you have an LT1. I just have a hopped up 350. Anyway, the filter I got is mostly glass. It's easy to change the elements because the body of the filter does not change, just the element. I got it at O'Reilly. It's much smaller in diameter and now it clears any hot parts by about an inch. Makes me feel much better.
|UPDATED|8/27/2013 11:05:36 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
I have a rubber hose from the pump to about 10 inches from the carb. I wonder if Bubba cut the metal tube to install the second filter. I bet he did. 

Good luck on yours.
|UPDATED|8/27/2013 11:05:36 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Over on the other forum, a guy said he had a glass filter and he got a bunch of replies saying get rid of the glass filter cause it can break and spill gas all over a hot engine. Said to replace it with a metal bodied filter.
I want to put one in the rubber line back by the tank. Then I can get rid of the "stone" filters in the carb.
I want to put one in the rubber line back by the tank. Then I can get rid of the "stone" filters in the carb.
F4Gary said: Over on the other forum, a guy said he had a glass filter and he got a bunch of replies saying get rid of the glass filter cause it can break and spill gas all over a hot engine. Said to replace it with a metal bodied filter.
I want to put one in the rubber line back by the tank. Then I can get rid of the "stone" filters in the carb.
I want to put one in the rubber line back by the tank. Then I can get rid of the "stone" filters in the carb.
Thanks for the heads up. I would have NEVER thought the filter would be in danger of breaking. Why would someone even build something like that?


Moderator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
I've used the see-thru filters on several vehicles with no problem. Had one on the Sneezle Mercedes for years, and have one on my Goldwing now. If they are not allowed to bang up against anything, OR if they are not tightened too tight when screwing the ends on, I don't see how they would break. The one on the Goldwing pretty much just lays on top of the engine case with no problems.
All that being said, a regular metal filter is definitely safer in the long run, but the see-thrus with replaceable elements are fine.
As far as the bronze in-carb filters, I prefer those to the paper ones....the bronze ones can be cleaned/reused. I can't see being a bronze material would really pass any more heat to the fuel than the metal fuel lines, or the carb bowls....unless I'm missing something there.
Installing a filter back by the tank is iffy, in most cases, with a mechanical fuel pump. The best thing for that is to use as small of one as possible....the less volume the pump has to suck the fuel thru the better. A filter with a large canister can work the pump a little more than normal to get the fuel started thru it, since the filter will always have a small amount of air in it.
All that being said, a regular metal filter is definitely safer in the long run, but the see-thrus with replaceable elements are fine.

As far as the bronze in-carb filters, I prefer those to the paper ones....the bronze ones can be cleaned/reused. I can't see being a bronze material would really pass any more heat to the fuel than the metal fuel lines, or the carb bowls....unless I'm missing something there.
Installing a filter back by the tank is iffy, in most cases, with a mechanical fuel pump. The best thing for that is to use as small of one as possible....the less volume the pump has to suck the fuel thru the better. A filter with a large canister can work the pump a little more than normal to get the fuel started thru it, since the filter will always have a small amount of air in it.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)