Topic: EFI or carb and why?
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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Bismarck, ND - USA
Joined: 10/1/2004
Posts: 380
Vette(s): 1970 stingray, t-top, mulsanne blue with black interior, 406 ci with 444 hp, racing suspension, hooker headers/sidepipes - SOLD :(
anyone happen to know where I can locate a prefit roll cage for my 77? seems it'd be a lot less hassle than trying to make one. I couldn't find too many roll cages using google. also, I looked for some drag rules on www.nhra.com, couldn't find em...so if anyone could point me in the right direction I'd be obliged. and let's not forget my post about where to get the block for this, speedomotive or having my own engine rebuild and bored and a new crank, just by a mechanic around here...and what about the psi for the horsepower I'm wanting.
Mike
My old Stingray...sure do miss it:
(click image to see a bigger version)
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Portland, TN - USA
Joined: 4/29/2003
Posts: 805
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe
Anything, but Stock and more mods to come!
SSBC Force 10 Brakes, 3.73, TH350, 355 CID, Rack and Pinion, Vette Brakes suspension front and rear.
you may want to try competition engineering for the roll cage. They may not have something specific, but they may have a weld in kit or a somewhat universal kit. They are a division of moroso.


Bismarck, ND - USA
Joined: 10/1/2004
Posts: 380
Vette(s): 1970 stingray, t-top, mulsanne blue with black interior, 406 ci with 444 hp, racing suspension, hooker headers/sidepipes - SOLD :(
as for the boost...should I try to reach a max of 20 psi? I'm just thinking I'm not gonna need it...it seems like I should be able to hit 750-800 horsepower in 14 psi without a problem...10 second quarter mile right now. low to mid 10s seems adequate, I'm really not hungering for anything faster. and I don't want the body to be totally ruined, I want the car to still look pretty.
Mike
My old Stingray...sure do miss it:
(click image to see a bigger version)
Former Member
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Portland, TN - USA
Joined: 4/29/2003
Posts: 805
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe
Anything, but Stock and more mods to come!
SSBC Force 10 Brakes, 3.73, TH350, 355 CID, Rack and Pinion, Vette Brakes suspension front and rear.
If you look at the article I told you about in Superchevy they made 720 at 14 psi. So that will put you in the ball park.


Bismarck, ND - USA
Joined: 10/1/2004
Posts: 380
Vette(s): 1970 stingray, t-top, mulsanne blue with black interior, 406 ci with 444 hp, racing suspension, hooker headers/sidepipes - SOLD :(
I'm not entirely sure what places around here would have the december superchevy, or any superchevy. it's Bismarck, ND guys.
Mike
My old Stingray...sure do miss it:
(click image to see a bigger version)
Former Member
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Portland, TN - USA
Joined: 4/29/2003
Posts: 805
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe
Anything, but Stock and more mods to come!
SSBC Force 10 Brakes, 3.73, TH350, 355 CID, Rack and Pinion, Vette Brakes suspension front and rear.
its a major publications so any bookstore, walmart, kmart, or even some convient stores like seven eleven. I also know that Advance auto, auto zone and others are carring these magazines as well.

I would recommend going with EFI (to stick with the thread).
Now as to some other things mentioned in this thread.
Its my opinion that torque is more important than horsepower, anyone that has driven a 70 454 knows this. take a look at some specs as the torque is a better gauge of light to light performance.
Aftershark is 110% correct, plan on some major headaches if you stuff a high torquing engine into a car that hasn't been set up for it. I watch a friend of mine toss a 502/500hp into his 81 and it twisted the drive shaft right out of it (not to mention tore up the tranny and 1/2 shafts).
Lastly small blocks are nice to play with but everyone should know there is NO Replacement for Displacement. Big blocks produce more torque and horsepower naturally, they are alittle heavier and don't tend to spin as fast (although i can spin my 427 around 7000 w/o a problem)BUT if you want to go light to light the BB is the better choice.
Speaking of BB check this out, its complete and i can get it to your door for under $12K
http://www.gmpartsdepot.com/store/product1.aspx?SID=2&Product_ID=458&Category_ID=64
I can also get just about any other GM part on that site way below list (just lmk if you need a hook up).
Regardless of what you build just use your common sense and drive safely :D
My $.02
Tom
Now as to some other things mentioned in this thread.
Its my opinion that torque is more important than horsepower, anyone that has driven a 70 454 knows this. take a look at some specs as the torque is a better gauge of light to light performance.
Aftershark is 110% correct, plan on some major headaches if you stuff a high torquing engine into a car that hasn't been set up for it. I watch a friend of mine toss a 502/500hp into his 81 and it twisted the drive shaft right out of it (not to mention tore up the tranny and 1/2 shafts).
Lastly small blocks are nice to play with but everyone should know there is NO Replacement for Displacement. Big blocks produce more torque and horsepower naturally, they are alittle heavier and don't tend to spin as fast (although i can spin my 427 around 7000 w/o a problem)BUT if you want to go light to light the BB is the better choice.
Speaking of BB check this out, its complete and i can get it to your door for under $12K
http://www.gmpartsdepot.com/store/product1.aspx?SID=2&Product_ID=458&Category_ID=64
I can also get just about any other GM part on that site way below list (just lmk if you need a hook up).
Regardless of what you build just use your common sense and drive safely :D
My $.02
Tom
69' 427/435 4-speed. #matching LR (Tri-power).
|IMG|http://home.tampabay.rr.com/tommyab/images/personal/lrear.jpg|/IMG|
I found a video of a twin turbo camaro at the drag strip doing 9's. Michael-Jon this will give you a good idea of how turbos sound as opposed to supers or normal aspirated. http://www.ls1motorsports.com/media/QMP-TurboZ-9.86@136.wmv

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
kstyer said: Ben, that's not a disagreement. You are right. They don't work as well for high RPM. But that was not the issue. It was the durability of the engine. It can hold up as well and last as long, provided you don't try to overrev it. No matter what you build, if you try to exceed it limits, it's coming apart. If you don't exceed it's limits, the stroker is as good as the others in terms of use and wear. |
I was referring to the turbo app...
I wouldnt use a turbo with a long stroke..
There were some HTML tag errors in After Shark's reply which were causing page display problems so it was deleted. Here is his reply:
After Shark said:
Ummm, just to let you know that turbos and superchargers are injecting the engine. You are forcing extra air and fuel into them raising the compression. That is exactly what nitrous does.
Incorrect, nitrous can cause damage to an engine if the engine is not equipped with the right parts to handle it. Most people make the mistake of putting a huge shot on a stock motor. You can kiss that engine good bye. Build it with forged pistons, steel rods and steel crank and 200 shot is a cake walk.
Wrong!!! Nitrous is a none a flamable gas, same thing the dentist office and doctors use to numb you for surgery.
gas! Only difference is this is laced with a couple lethal addatives to keep people from abusing it. Nitrous is only flamable when it is mixed with fuel. Can a bottle explode, yes, but there is a safety valve that you install on the bottle that will prevent that.
Yes that would be the ticket for living long term.
If you want to learn more about nitrous get the facts: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/NOSTech5.html
On another note, if you would pick up that issue of Super Chevy I think your problem would be solved.
Someone suggested Speed O Motive. I was involved with that engine and that was another great project that turned out well. I would recommend it as well.
Someone also mentioned the Venom 2000 turbo spray control. NOS already has this covered. Its a simple pressure switch that installs in the fuel system. All boosted (turbo and Supercharged) engines have a fuel system that will raise fuel pressure based on boost. Basically the fuel pressure will rise as boost climbs. The NOS pressure switch senses the fuel pressure rise and shuts the nitrous off once maximum boost has been reached on the system. Basically your using the switch to spray nitrous to help with spool and to shut if off once boost has been reached. Its user adjustable so it can be adjusted to the boost level you like to run. This has been used for years on the Buick grand nationals because those racers were notorious for running turbos that were too large for the engine creating lots of turbo lag.
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After Shark said:
nitrous just...isn't my thing. I like to think that my car can win a race on its own power, without injecting anything...foreign...into the engine. |
Ummm, just to let you know that turbos and superchargers are injecting the engine. You are forcing extra air and fuel into them raising the compression. That is exactly what nitrous does.
nitrous creates more wear on the engine and fuel lines, and is rather...volatile. |
Incorrect, nitrous can cause damage to an engine if the engine is not equipped with the right parts to handle it. Most people make the mistake of putting a huge shot on a stock motor. You can kiss that engine good bye. Build it with forged pistons, steel rods and steel crank and 200 shot is a cake walk.
if I have turbos and I get into a fairly bad accident, the car could end up fixable. if I have nitrous and get into a the same accident, BOOM. |
Wrong!!! Nitrous is a none a flamable gas, same thing the dentist office and doctors use to numb you for surgery.

the people here told me that B&M made TH-400 automatic transmission could handle it. |
Yes that would be the ticket for living long term.
If you want to learn more about nitrous get the facts: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/NOSTech5.html
On another note, if you would pick up that issue of Super Chevy I think your problem would be solved.
Someone suggested Speed O Motive. I was involved with that engine and that was another great project that turned out well. I would recommend it as well.
Someone also mentioned the Venom 2000 turbo spray control. NOS already has this covered. Its a simple pressure switch that installs in the fuel system. All boosted (turbo and Supercharged) engines have a fuel system that will raise fuel pressure based on boost. Basically the fuel pressure will rise as boost climbs. The NOS pressure switch senses the fuel pressure rise and shuts the nitrous off once maximum boost has been reached on the system. Basically your using the switch to spray nitrous to help with spool and to shut if off once boost has been reached. Its user adjustable so it can be adjusted to the boost level you like to run. This has been used for years on the Buick grand nationals because those racers were notorious for running turbos that were too large for the engine creating lots of turbo lag.
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in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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