new77guy said: Check this bad boy out..... As I have been told, and I after some more research a 'supercharger' or 'turbo' is nothing more than really addind displacment to your motor.

no.. it doesnt add displacement..

it increases your effective compression ratio..

Wow, I'm off for less than one day and missed all this.

But I must agree with AfterShark on every point.
Built stock, or 800 HP will be the same end effect.
If the engine can only handle 500 HP, and you get 600 HP from it, it's going to come apart. If the same engine produces 400 HP, it will stay together.
Nitrous, Turbos, Superchargers, all produce more HP. Can your base engine handle it?
And properly built, there is no reason a stroker won't hold up. The 400 does fine, and that's the crank being used.

Start at the crank and start building.

kstyer said: And properly built, there is no reason a stroker won't hold up. The 400 does fine, and that's the crank being used. Start at the crank and start building.

I hate doing this but I must disagree slightly with you Ken...

long strokes are not good for high RPM applications..

Ben, that's not a disagreement. You are right. They don't work as well for high RPM. But that was not the issue. It was the durability of the engine. It can hold up as well and last as long, provided you don't try to overrev it. No matter what you build, if you try to exceed it limits, it's coming apart. If you don't exceed it's limits, the stroker is as good as the others in terms of use and wear.

http://www.c3sharktank.com/sound/sound4.html

Michael-Jon, Go and click on the last two videos and see what a 9 second quarter looks like. Also the very last one can happen to you if you dont strengthen your drivline properly. LOL

here's a good EFI site http://www.affordable-fuel-injection.com/

so would you all suggest calling speedomotive and telling them I want an EFI engine built that can handle a twin turbo upgrade that brings the horsepower up to 750? or should I try to rebuild the engine that's in there now, bore it out, pick a different crank, etc, build from scratch?

and what EFI system should I be thinking about using? The AFI website intrigues me, but I look at the Holley and I'm wondering if I shouldn't go with that one...if it could handle the power. the Holley's 950 forced induction system can only take a max boost of 14.7 psi...but then how many psi am I going to need to hit 750 hp. I could look for one with a 20 psi max, but that over 6 psi is gonna be another what...100, 150 hp? what am I ever gonna need that for. 10 seconds is very borderline with driveability and necessary reinforcements...I think if I reinforce the drivetrain and everything I need, the car will be perfectly driveable with electronic boost control keeping the turbos at around 5-7 psi on the street, 14-14.5 on the track (no idea what max I should run with that 950, if I should stay with 14 so I have an extra pillow, or push the limit and run 14.5 max). as I drop below 10 seconds and go above 750-800 horsepower, I'm going to lose driveability and need so many more reinforcements...roll cages and such...and it would stress the body even more. it just doesn't seem necessary. anyhow, input please.

I can tell you that you can get 3 bar map sensors for the commander to run 14.7 to 29.4 psi boost. The issue will be tuning it, you will need a good tuner for the type of engine you will be building. You will also need the Wide Band 02 upgrade kit if you decide to go with the commander. Price wise you the commander has more features dollar for dollar compared to other units on the market, but I'm not here to tell you what to buy. There are other units out on the market that will do just as well.

I know the Acel DFI system has a good database of tuners around the country for their system. Holley does not have much of database, but there are certain tuners we can recommend. Can't tell you if there is one in your area or not.

Something you said needs to be address, about turning up the boost for running on the track. First off you may only get one pass down the track and they you will be banned. Any car that runs quicker then 11's is required to have a roll cage, drive shaft loop, and safety harnesses. So if your planning on adding them later then just to save the hassle at the track you might as well add them now.

thought 10s only needed bars, not a full cage. yeah they'll be added before the turbos are put on, every reinforcement and safety precaution necessary will be added before the turbos are put on. that's another thing...if I build an engine meant for a twin turbo system, can I put it in and drive for a few months before I put the turbos on? or no.

It can work fine normaly asprirated as long as you realize that a low duration cam and low compression will not be very good for power of non boosted applications. You will need have your fuel injection computer calibrated for that and then recalibrate it for the boosted app. but most aftermarket computers will allow you to do it yourself on a laptop. you just need to know what your doing.