Topic: Electric vs. 'exhaust heat-style' choke
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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Lifetime MemberYou found the unit on the snorkle. Yes someone disabled it, OR the flap is all of the way up (open) and you didn't see it looking in.
The 1/4 way counter clockwise is a bit much. That should make it too lean, and open too fast. So that part makes sense. The resetting right away does not. It's cooling too quickly or the choke thermostat (coil) is bad. I would guess it needs replaced, even if it new. If it doesn't heat up enough, it will close very quickly. But first check the ground. There is no ground wire. Then inside of the coil housing is the ground contact to the body of the carb, then grounds through the carb, so it needs grounded as well. I still suspect this, or a bad choke heater. You will see two metal dots on the surface of the choke coil cover. One is the power hot lead, the other is the ground lead where they are soldered inside the cover. Touch each one with a test light or volt meter, one at a time, with the key on. The one close to the wire should light. The other one should not. If they both light you have a bad ground. If it does not, shut the key off and see if you have a ohm reading or a connection between the two solder dots. If not, the heater coil in the choke is open, and bad. This will require replacing the choke thermostat, and explain your problem.
As too the question can you change it back. Granted it's getting more difficult to find the regular heated system. The carb is different, it has a slight vacuum in the choke chamber to draw heat up the tube to the choke. If it has vacuum, it can be converted to a electric type, but the opening for the tube needs plugged to prevent air from entering and cooling the choke. If it does not have the vacuum, only the electric will work. And you would need to make sure the intake gaskets has the opening for flow to the intake manifold. If you intake is aftermarket without an EGR the passages probably are not there. You can get a kit from NAPA the wraps a tube around the exhaust manifold and leads to the choke. If you can't find the kit you can use a piece of copper tube, wrap it around the exhaust manifold and leave the end open. Then connect the other end to the choke. It's ugly, but it works.
I would rather see the electric work properly. It's easier and should work.
Ken Styer
|UPDATED|3/5/2004 8:30:09 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
The 1/4 way counter clockwise is a bit much. That should make it too lean, and open too fast. So that part makes sense. The resetting right away does not. It's cooling too quickly or the choke thermostat (coil) is bad. I would guess it needs replaced, even if it new. If it doesn't heat up enough, it will close very quickly. But first check the ground. There is no ground wire. Then inside of the coil housing is the ground contact to the body of the carb, then grounds through the carb, so it needs grounded as well. I still suspect this, or a bad choke heater. You will see two metal dots on the surface of the choke coil cover. One is the power hot lead, the other is the ground lead where they are soldered inside the cover. Touch each one with a test light or volt meter, one at a time, with the key on. The one close to the wire should light. The other one should not. If they both light you have a bad ground. If it does not, shut the key off and see if you have a ohm reading or a connection between the two solder dots. If not, the heater coil in the choke is open, and bad. This will require replacing the choke thermostat, and explain your problem.
As too the question can you change it back. Granted it's getting more difficult to find the regular heated system. The carb is different, it has a slight vacuum in the choke chamber to draw heat up the tube to the choke. If it has vacuum, it can be converted to a electric type, but the opening for the tube needs plugged to prevent air from entering and cooling the choke. If it does not have the vacuum, only the electric will work. And you would need to make sure the intake gaskets has the opening for flow to the intake manifold. If you intake is aftermarket without an EGR the passages probably are not there. You can get a kit from NAPA the wraps a tube around the exhaust manifold and leads to the choke. If you can't find the kit you can use a piece of copper tube, wrap it around the exhaust manifold and leave the end open. Then connect the other end to the choke. It's ugly, but it works.
I would rather see the electric work properly. It's easier and should work.
Ken Styer
|UPDATED|3/5/2004 8:30:09 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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