Topic: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
BobOvette said: I wish I would had read before I started removing the pump. I got gas in my eyes, mouth and up my nose.
I guess its real men's cologne!
I remember next time!!!
Not laffin at you, laffin WID you!! btdt....more than onced. Welcome to the club!!!
Joel Adams
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Hey Bob, sorry about that, in reading your first post I thought you had the fuel line clamped off and the pump out already. As Joel said, welcome to the club, been there done that many times. Not quite sure if I have a preference for the fragrance of regular or premium though, LOL. Just one last note, a small vise grips as suggested works great to clamp off the rubber line, but it's one case where really tight is not a good thing. Those little teeth on a new set of grips can be pretty sharp. Double check your rubber line a couple times after you get it all buttoned up to make sure you don't have a leak or a small seep out of the rubber line - another one of those "been there, done that" on my part a few fuel pumps ago.
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member
Duct tape is the new Black !!
Vman73 said:
Hey Gary - it's true, I've never been accused of giving too short of an answer !! How's that LT1 been treating you ?? Got some of the bugs worked out that you were having ?? My offer still stands to take that troublesome thing off your hands
F4Gary said:
Vman73 said: Bob - the bolt they are referring to is on the right front corner of the block about two inches from the bottom. If your looking down from the passenger side fender, the RH fuel pump bolt you took out is almost pointing right at it. The bolt is all by itself and the only one that looks like its not doing anything, just looks like a bolt screwed into the block. Remove that bolt and install the longer bolt they are referring to to hold the pump push rod in its up while position while reinstalling the pump. When your done make sure you remove the longer bolt and install the original or you will have a very nasty oil leak. If the rod fell down when you removed the pump, either use a piece of wire bent with a hook on the end to snag it and push it up, or I generally remove the fuel pump mounting plate which is held on by the two bolts right below the fuel pump bolts. If you remove the plate, you will need to clean an buy an additional gasket to replace, but the rod will be openly accessible to push back up where it belongs. Also watch out when you remove the plate because the rod will probably fall out. Note which end of the rod was up in the block and which end was out at the pump. Last but not least, the rod and pump are actuated by a lobe on the cam, if you reinstall and the lobe is pushing the rod out, you will have to compress the spring in the fuel pump as your trying to reinstall it. It's much easier to check the lobe position by putting the rod back in and hold while you turn the motor over by HAND with a wrench on the crank pulley. When you can get the rod to achieve its highest position in the block, tighten the longer bolt you installed in the front of the block to hold it in that position, then install the mounting plate and the pump. Tighten the bolt just enough to hold the rod in position, you dont need to reef on it and REMEMBER to remove the longer bolt and reinstall the original when your done !! Sorry for the long winded answer, hope this helps. Oooooops, beat to the punch while typing !!! Better three replies than none.
Good explanation.
Good explanation.
Hey Gary - it's true, I've never been accused of giving too short of an answer !! How's that LT1 been treating you ?? Got some of the bugs worked out that you were having ?? My offer still stands to take that troublesome thing off your hands
Got it running pretty good now. $48 grand and it's yours.
Thanks for all the previous tips on changing the C3 fuel pump. I’ll try to summarize the entire job the way I found it to be easiest to do on my 1981 L81 350ci. It is not a hard job if you do it right, just tedious.
|UPDATED|11/11/2017 12:37:01 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
1. Jack up the front of the car to lift the tires about 8”-10” off the floor, turn the wheels full over to the left, then block up under the front tires and lower the jack until the tires rest onto the blocks.
2. Get at least a 8’ length of 3/4” or smaller garden hose and siphon all the gas out of the gas tank.
3. Pop the distributor cap hold downs and carefully bump the engine over by pecking the starter, checking under the cap until the distributor rotor is pointed at the #1 spark plug wire. It doesn’t have to be exact, just close. (This will position the cam so the pump will be easiest to reinstall.)
4. Remove the two formed rubber fuel hoses from the steel fuel lines coming from the tank.
5. Remove the steel fuel line at the carb coming from the fuel pump. (Hold backup with a wrench on the fuel filter housing then don’t forget to remove fuel filter housing and replace the paper fuel filter. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE FUEL FILTER HOUSING GASKET)
6. Remove steel fuel line from the fuel pump.
7. Using a long (18”) 1/4” drive socket extension and 7/16” socket insert it thru the cutout in the right wheel well adjacent to the fuel pump and remove both fuel pump attach bolts. A 3/8” drive socket will be more difficult to make work but it will.
8. Remove the fuel pump by maneuvering it out underneath the car.
9. Remove the two fuel pump mounting plate bolts and remove the plate being careful to catch the push rod as it will tend to slide out.
10. Remove the short 3/8”-16 bolt (that is at the same level as the fuel pump attach bolts but on the front of the engine adjacent to the fuel pump) and replace it with a 3/8”-16 x 1-1/4” grip bolt that you will have to provide.
11. Clean and slide the push rod back into its hole (making sure to insert it the same way it came out) all the way in until it bottoms out on the cam and hold it there. Then finger tighten the longer bolt you just installed until it contacts the push rod. FINGER TIGHT ONLY! I used a long socket to hand tighten the bolt.
12. Clean the gasket surfaces on the fuel pump mounting plate and engine block and reinstall the mounting plate with a new gasket.
13. Remove the fitting from the old pump (if there is one) and reinstall in the same orientation on the new pump.
14. Permatex the new gasket onto the fuel pump and let it set up a few minuets. Run both bolts thru the gasket which will hold them in position for installation.
15. Maneuver the fuel pump into position and carefully install the bolts evenly by inserting the long socket wrench extension back thru the wheel well cutout adjacent to the fuel pump. Run the bolts in evenly then torque the bolts.
16. Unscrew the long bolt holding the push rod in place and replace it with the original short bolt. (DON’T FORGET TO DO THIS !!!)
17. Install the steel fuel line to the pump.
18. Install the two formed rubber fuel lines onto the fuel pump then onto the steel fuel lines from the tank. (Use new formed hoses from Eckler’s and new clamps. Don’t try to use regular fuel hose, it will crimp, the bends are too tight.) If one of the hoses contacts the car frame, tie-wrap it back to the fuel pump just enough to clear so it doesn’t rub on the frame.
19. Install the steel fuel line at the carb making sure the fuel filter housing is tightened properly first.
20. Fill the gas tank back up.
21. Start the car and check for leaks. VERY IMPORTANT !!!
|UPDATED|11/11/2017 12:37:01 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
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Overland Park, KS - USA
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Vette(s): 1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.
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Another way to keep the pump push rod from sliding out is to put a small dab of the old style (pre-disc brake) wheel bearing grease on the end of the rod and installing 'til it hits the cam. The grease is sticky enuf to hold it.
1973 L-82 4 spd
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems
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