I have pulled my gas tank out(no build sheet how sad) and I'm going to clean it up and re-paint it. I drained the tank but is there some kind additive to add to the tank so that I can work on it without blowing up the house?

I'd suggest taking it to a shop that will "vat" it. Most radiator shops will do that. The inside will be clean and fume free. Then you can safely detail the outside. Be sure to replace the screen on the pickup tube while you're at it. When I took mine out, it was crumbs! Eastwood has a tank finish, check out their catalog. I got the catalog with this months Hemmings. Man, they got some really neat stuff!!!!!!!!

Yep, take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned out. Then you can safely do anything you want, and it will be clean as a whistle inside. Both good things.

replacements aren't that expensive.Cleaning them up and re-finishing may be too much trouble. Give it some thought to a 30 y/o gas tank. Replace all the lines and be careful of that "infamous vapor separator" that is non exsistent if you break it.
Yes - replace the fuel sock......it will be crumbs...see what I mean by just shot gunning the whole mess???

R.H.,

If you need 'em, I have some parts that I can send your way. I changed my gas tank & sending unit about 2 months ago, & I have some extra new parts:

1 Sending Unit Retaining Cam
2 Sending Unit Rubber O-Rings
1 Filler Neck Cork Gasket
Full Set (10) of Filler Neck Screws

If you keep the current sending unit, I agree with Blu72, replace the strainer sock. I found that it was easier to replace all hoses, clamps & especially the filler neck boot & overflow hose. Make sure the overflow hose has a support spring, otherwise it will crimp as it passes over the edge of the tank.

Send me an e-mail with address if you want them.
Good luck,

Anthony

My '72 had a replacement tank put in and it needs one again soon(rusted bad). Is there a product I can spray in it that can delay the rust from returning?

JR

If it is rusting from the inside out you're getting a buildup of condensation (water) in the tank. A few things will help to keep that from happening:

1) DRIVE THE CAR so you cycle fuel through the tank;
2) top the tank before parking the car for extended periods of time (especially if there are large temperature swings);
3) use some fuel additives that help to reduce moisture in the fuel system.

I'm sure there are plenty of other tips out there but those are the ones that quickly came to mind.

J.R.,

I could be wrong, but most of the tank repair kits require that the tank be out of the car.

Otherwise, the sealer gets into the fuel system.

Personally, if I'm pulling the tank, I'm replacing it.

I would suggest that you keep the tank full, this will help to prevent condenstaion which promotes rust.

My 2 cents,

Anthony

Thanks for your quick replies, Gents....

Anthony:
I'm definitely replacing, but coating the inside of the new tank with such a product was what I was referring to. I'm driving it about twice a week so I'll just have to get used to "topping off" before parking it.

JR

JR,
I don't know if this is available in Florida or not, but
Christie Dry Gas (blue bottle) is what I use. Just pour it in before you fill up, good stuff.
P.S.
You may want to change gas stations, for all you know there may be a problem with their underground tank or, just bad gas. It does happen.

|UPDATED|1/11/2005 1:18:32 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|