Does the choke coil/rod look like it has been installed backward? Could this be why the choke isn't fully opening?

 First thing...the choke is NOT fully open in that pic. Second thing, what you have circled is the AIR VALVE lock-out. The actual secondary throttle blade lock-out lever is down on the bottom. The design is for the secondary throttle blades to open with the throttle linkage(at 3/4-full throttle), and the air valve is controlled by the amount of air rushing past them with the throttle blades open.....like a variable venturi effect. The air valve assy keeps the engine from bogging down completely when the secondary throttle blades go wide open.

So...first thing I would do is adjust the linkage from the choke coil to the choke lever, and get it to be fully open with the engine warm. Then see if full throttle will open the secondary throttle blades. NOT the air valve( on top), but the throttle blades themselves. If the throttle blades are not opening, the air valve will not move either.

Sometimes, the little lock-out "tang" for the secondary throttle blades will gum up, of otherwise stick, and keep the secondaries from opening. You have to make sure the choke is opening fully when warm before doing anything else.

Adams' Apple said:

With the choke coil, I will reverse this as literature is telling me it is around the wrong way.

 

Also the choke coil cover is missing, I know this has an impact and may result in the fast idle not kicking down when warm?

73shark said: Without the choke cover on, I don't think the engine heat will ever completely warm up the coil and thereby opening the choke fully.

manchestershark said: Yes, you can purchase a cover for the coil. ALSO, the coil base and connecting rod are in BACKWARDS. The rod should come down straight, and the connection on the front of the coil. That is the way my 72 is set up. It works very well. I have a SBC, BBC may be different. Maybe you have the incorrect coil on there also.