Well,

I figure this much. I still label myself as a retard because the majority of the people I know think I am. Computers are a dying field for American engineers, and programmers. Cars are slowly falling behind. With American cars being made in Mexico, and Canada. And Hondas, and Nissans, all being made in Tennessee You can see the irony. Anyhow... I figure that the performer EPS #27012 intake is actually all that I can get under that hood safely.

I also get that part number #1806

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail. asp&Ntt=650+cfm&N=4294925239+400065&part=EDL%2D1 806&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch

It is around 650CFM, with the single fuel inlet. They have a double fuel inlet, but at this point with a 100CFM more than needed and a better carb I don't want to be dumping too much fuel in. I was going to keep that EPS as I mentioned before #27012, and get the Holley electric blue fuel pump. After that I'm done. No more fooling around, or tweaking here and there, I still need to get the ignition box, and the spark plugs/wires. Not to mention sleeving/hose kits. I wanted to try and hit the 400HP mark, but I guess the '77 won't hit it, oh, well it's my first engine and I think its pretty damn good at 360HP for a first....

-Louis

 

P.S. is this all ok?

360 is quite good.  You can always do more later.  That engine can produce 400 hp, or more.  But as you now know, and as the racers say, "How fast do you want to go? How much do you want to spend?"

As for cars being a dying business in the USA, very much not true.  Granted there is a lot of off shore mfg, but most of the imports are not really imports.  They are being built here in the USA.  VW, Toyota, Mazda, Nissan, BMW, Honda, all build cars in the USA.  But that's not even the real point.  The cars are sold, repaired, and customized right here.  And people here do that.

How to drop the compression?  Two choices.

1. Use different heads with larger chambers.

2. Change the pistions to lower compression designs.

kstyer38414.3615393518

Hey Ken,

what I ment was American cars. Like CHEVY, and FORD. Not crappy import Hondas, and shat I hate those cars, as far as I'm concerned someone needs to burn those factories down so that I don't ahve to look at those cars again. But Ken how can I up the compression ratio? I already got me some flat-top pistons I believe their volume size is 70CC. I don't know what the chamber size on stock heads are for my '77 but it was bored .30 over. anyhow, I know the stock compression ratio is 8.5:1, wtf is that. what was GM thinking????? I believe it is 10:1 now, how can I get it to 11.5:1 at least, if not more?

No louis, Ken was answering Michael-Jons question about how to raise compression, 10:1 is fine for your engine. GM lowered compression so that it can pass the EPA's regulations on smog and also lower horsepower because of the rising insurance rates on fast cars.

here is something to remember.  anytime you are using a supercharger or turbo, they are not always running at maximum boost.  Boost is pressure and during crusing speed that pressure actually becomes static meaning it levels off.  I'm trying to think of a good example, but think of it like this.  If you mash the throttle the rotors or blades will in the turbo or super will spin like made pushing its maximum amount of air.  The pressure or boost is that air being forced into the cylinders against the piston and the pressure in the intake because there is no place for the pressure to go.  Spin it faster and the more pressure you will see inside the engine inductions system.  let off the throttle and the turbo and supercharger slows down and the pressure decreases because its not pushing as much air into the engine.  So just like an engine has a HP curve and supercharger has a cfm flow curve that varies with RPM. 

Sorry If I'm not good at explaining this, but what you need to be aware of is the super or turbo makes very little boost at idle and will make maximum boost at wide open throttle and some boost at part throttle.

As far as carb sizing Ben is correct, but I believe left out one factor.  Volumetric Effiency.  This is how well the engine intakes and exspells air and exhaust gases.  Most stock are 75%, mild to mid range engines are 80 to 85% and wild to race are 85% and above.  Intakes cylinder heads, cam, lift, headers, carb, head swirl design, flow and whole lot of other variables affect effiency.  So your formula should be:

CID X MAX RPM / 3456 = CFM X .VE = Final CFM 

Example

355 x 6000 / 3456 = 616 CFM x .85 = 524 Final CFM

 

Yes, 10:1 is quite adaquite.

[QUOTE=After Shark]

carb sizing Ben is correct, but I believe left out one factor.  Volumetric Effiency.  This is how well the engine intakes and exspells air and exhaust gases.  Most stock are 75%, mild to mid range engines are 80 to 85% and wild to race are 85% and above.  Intakes cylinder heads, cam, lift, headers, carb, head swirl design, flow and whole lot of other variables affect effiency.  So your formula should be:

CID X MAX RPM / 3456 = CFM X .VE = Final CFM 

Example

355 x 6000 / 3456 = 616 CFM x .85 = 524 Final CFM

[/QUOTE]

I did leave it out..  i generally assume 100% when calculating as it leaves some room at the top..  my engine is 89.6% at peak... but in general most people dont know what their efficiency is.

also.. this gives you growth room...

 

I just put edelbrock part numbers 1406 and 2101 on my 70...the 4 bbl performer carb and performer intake.  if this is the route you're looking for, you will need a low profile air filter housing.  the stock housing would not even fit on the edelbrock, and even edelbrock's 14" filter and housing was touching on the electric choke...with a spacer put on, it was too bad to get the hood closed...I now have one of those edelbrock...tri-flow or whatever they're called, triangular shaped foam air filters on there...and the hood still won't close properly.  I just spent 22 hours straight working on this stuff...you might have a little more room on the 77, but I highly doubt it, so just be careful.