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Topic: Turbo

in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems


Turbo

Posted: 3/1/05 6:12pm Message 21 of 48
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Bismarck, ND - USA
Joined: 10/1/2004
Posts: 380
Vette(s): 1970 stingray, t-top, mulsanne blue with black interior, 406 ci with 444 hp, racing suspension, hooker headers/sidepipes - SOLD :(

ignore this one too.  I suck.

CorvetteRacer197038413.1569791667


Mike

My old Stingray...sure do miss it:


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Turbo

Posted: 3/1/05 6:27pm Message 22 of 48
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Bismarck, ND - USA
Joined: 10/1/2004
Posts: 380
Vette(s): 1970 stingray, t-top, mulsanne blue with black interior, 406 ci with 444 hp, racing suspension, hooker headers/sidepipes - SOLD :(

ignore, kay thanks.

CorvetteRacer197038413.1567013889


Mike

My old Stingray...sure do miss it:


(click image to see a bigger version)

Turbo

Posted: 3/1/05 9:59pm Message 23 of 48
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Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
[QUOTE=CorvetteRacer1970][QUOTE=After Shark]

I have not been under the hood of a 77, but I can tell you there is room for the turbos on my 72 but it will take some other modifications to the rest of the car.

I believe that the turbo(s) can be mounted in one or both areas.  After removing the factory AC system and going to a flat fire wall.  This can be done with a hot rod air kit.

Then on the drivers side you would need to remove the Vacuum storage canister.  That would require going to the electric headlight conversion kit.  You would also need to use the Steeroid kit to get rid of the steering box.

The question is how much time and engineering are you willing to put into it.  Everything will have to be custom made and engineered.  anything is possible with time and money.

[/QUOTE]

Vaccuum storage canister on the driver's side?  see, I'm only barely learning my way around under the hood yet, which is sad considering the other stuff I can do.  anyhow, when I look under the hood of the 70, I have a fair amount of room toward the bottom/rear of the engine compartment on the driver's side, and less room on the passenger's side.  I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with the steeroids conversion, anything that earns me more room for my turbos is cool with me, plus I've heard great things about that setup.  Only problem is...well, I've got a young lady comin to stay with me at the end of March, so I want to get the 70 running fairly well by then, which leaves me wondering how I'm going to afford that steeroids package...I'd like to go in for that 10% off thing, and I just read on the site that the price is going to be increased to 1,249 on the 1st of April...only a hundred dollar increase but still.  Anyway, the 70 hasn't been touched since I bought it mechanically...which means a change of spark plugs and wires is in order, along with oil, and the fact thatit takes me a good 30 seconds of grinding the starter to hell makes me think...I'm gonna need to do the plugs AND the carb.  I've already established that the carb is leaking, so I'm receiving a power drain, and I think that's what might be messing with my ignition...since getting the engine to turn over and make some noise is no problem...getting it to run takes a bit.  If any of you'd like to help me with this problem, I'd love advice.  I'd need a cheap 4 bbl carb and cheap intake manifold, something I won't feel bad about removing when it comes time to twin turbo and convert to EFI.  Anyhow I get myself off track.  I want that problem solved, and at least my custom sound system in there and have the car starting right before she gets here for the last two days of March/first week of April.  Brakes aren't as big a deal, but the fact that I can be going 30, floor the brakes, and still take 10-15 seconds to come to a complete stop WHILE fighting with my steering wheel because it drags the car off toward the driver's side whenever I floor the brakes makes me nervous.  So as I was sayin, yeah I'd like to go in on that 10% off purchase, but I dunno when I'll have the money for it.  Sometime in mid-April probably.

[/QUOTE]

well in mid april 10% off will get you back to roughly where it is right now..

i have to buy mine before that..




Turbo

Posted: 3/2/05 2:39am Message 24 of 48
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henderson, NV - USA
Joined: 2/7/2004
Posts: 715
Vette(s): 1977 Corvette l48 Custom
Well if you look on ststturbo's website www.ststurbo.com you will find that this turbo is mounted twoards the back of the car, and then the air blows back up. Like ben said it makes for a good topic. There is no intercooler required because it travels from one end of the car and back twice. Also, there is a lot of room back there where I can mount it. The only thing is that I was going to keep the rearend stock, is this going to be a problem? I see Racer70 is modifying his rear, I'm not. Also I tried to get a hold of the Carb Shop, and noone responded. I'll call tmorrow morning and see whats up.


-LOUIE

Turbo

Posted: 3/2/05 3:39am Message 25 of 48
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Bismarck, ND - USA
Joined: 10/1/2004
Posts: 380
Vette(s): 1970 stingray, t-top, mulsanne blue with black interior, 406 ci with 444 hp, racing suspension, hooker headers/sidepipes - SOLD :(
well apparently every message got posted even though it said it didn't...so now I feel like a donkey...


Mike

My old Stingray...sure do miss it:


(click image to see a bigger version)

Turbo

Posted: 3/2/05 3:45am Message 26 of 48
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Bismarck, ND - USA
Joined: 10/1/2004
Posts: 380
Vette(s): 1970 stingray, t-top, mulsanne blue with black interior, 406 ci with 444 hp, racing suspension, hooker headers/sidepipes - SOLD :(
I'm modifying my rear, but only because I plan on running three times the horsepower to the rear wheels as I am stock.  It'll just be strengthening of joints and axles so stuff doesn't snap...and probably different gears in back.  If you're looking to bump up the horsepower of your vette like that, you may wanna consider some strengthening as well.  when those wheels spin out and then catch, it can be nasty.  I'm curious as to whether or not those rear-mounted turbo kits can even produce the kind of boost I'm looking for.  Also, the Banks twin turbo kit was mentioned earlier in this thread...with the cost placed at 25 grand, it's not.  The setup's around 8 grand and comes with everything, or at least that's what the Banks representative told me.


Mike

My old Stingray...sure do miss it:


(click image to see a bigger version)

Turbo

Posted: 3/2/05 7:48am Message 27 of 48
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Batavia, IL - USA
Joined: 3/27/2003
Posts: 622
Vette(s): 496 big block, Dragvette 6 link, 12 bolt IRS conversion, Going for fastest Vette IRS E/T
25K with the motor and efi included, you can't bolt the turbos to a stock motor and expect it to survive. 8 grand gives you the turbos, wastegates, exhaust manifolds and the oil line plumbing. There is alot more needed to be done and bought after that purchase. you can do cheaper than 8k for those parts if you get the parts from cheaper sources. epecially if you fabricate your own exhaust manifolds.STS looks like its good for about 450 - to 550hp worth of steetable power if what they say is true. banks style kit is worth over a grand in hp in a properly prepared engine. Its all about money and doing your homework in what you want your car to do. I am looking at a procharger centrifugal supercharger for a simpler and cheaper alternative to turbos. I am not looking for 1000+ power but set my sites to 450 rwhp. For about $3000 I can accomplish that after I finish my custom efi setup. I am going to put in a stronger shortblock for all the power. my current short block is good for about 400hp gross right now.Tumarr38413.3308333333


Turbo

Posted: 3/2/05 8:00am Message 28 of 48
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Portland, TN - USA
Joined: 4/29/2003
Posts: 805
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe Anything, but Stock and more mods to come! SSBC Force 10 Brakes, 3.73, TH350, 355 CID, Rack and Pinion, Vette Brakes suspension front and rear.

If I was laying down the money I would do what Tumarr is doing.  I would pick a centrifical supercharger over a turbo setup just for shear ease of installation and cost.  You definitely need to do your homework when your doing these types of upgrades.  One thing will impact the entire car.  I'm going through some of that right now and it has slowed the completion time of my final project. 




Turbo

Posted: 3/2/05 8:13am Message 29 of 48
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Bismarck, ND - USA
Joined: 10/1/2004
Posts: 380
Vette(s): 1970 stingray, t-top, mulsanne blue with black interior, 406 ci with 444 hp, racing suspension, hooker headers/sidepipes - SOLD :(

oh yes I know how that goes...I'm going turbo because of the better control over "streetability" than a supercharger offers.  and yeah I set my sites on 650 rwhp maximum, on the highest boost setting...down around 450 on the lower boost setting.  those rear mounted turbos have caught my interest, but I would imagine there'd be some major problems with a kit like that...I might have to take the car down to a shop and have them pop the hood and establish what would have to be moved where and what would have to be removed in order to get twins to fit under the hood.  a single, larger turbo setup would work for me too, but the twins would help keep temperatures down, splitting my boost between two turbos instead of piling into one...anyhow first comes the engine rebuild...

forged internals...

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail. asp&part=WRL%2D101095&N=4294925232+4294919598+429485 4588+4294832643+4294891094&autoview=sku

and Tumarr, if you're looking for around 450 rwhp, you may wanna look at this one, the kit I'm mixing with that rotating assembly.

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=500+hp+sbc+kit &Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&a mp;N=0&target=egnsearch.asp

the rest of the power is comin from boost, which will be added later, after transmission, driveline, rear end, brakes, and suspension upgrades, and EFI.

In the meantime, does anyone have an idea for a cheapie 4 bbl carb and intake manifold I can bolt onto the 70 for short term solutions...since my current carb is leaking which might be messing with the starting of the engine.  just something rather inexpensive that will suit me temporarily, and maybe when I'm ready to go with EFI, I can take the carb and intake off and put em on my 77.




Mike

My old Stingray...sure do miss it:


(click image to see a bigger version)

Turbo

Posted: 3/2/05 8:28am Message 30 of 48
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Portland, TN - USA
Joined: 4/29/2003
Posts: 805
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe Anything, but Stock and more mods to come! SSBC Force 10 Brakes, 3.73, TH350, 355 CID, Rack and Pinion, Vette Brakes suspension front and rear.

Ok one problem that I suggest that you look into.  With any type of power adder like a turbo or supercharger you are raising the compression of the engine because you are forcing air into it.  the kit you have selected has a 11cc dome piston.  I could not see the trick flow kit  you were looking at, but I'm guess it has 72cc heads in it.  If you zero deck the block your going to running somewhere around 12 to 12.5 compression.  That is way to much for any type of forced induction.  You want to keep it in the 8 to 9 range.  Just looking at a chart that I have it stops showing what boosted compression would be with a 11:00 combination.  Example 11:00 with 5 psi of boost makes the finall compression 15:1.  You would need to o ring the block and heads, plus run race fuel all them time.  More likely nitro like the top fuel guys use.

5 psi on a 8.5:1 engine is roughly 11:1.  Do your homework.  Remember with a supercharger and turbos your not trying to make killer power with the engine naturally aspirated, thats what the power adder is for.

 

 




in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems


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