Hi gang, Does anyone know of some pretty reliable data on about what VIN # the switch took place in the engine color? My 77 is #942 and when I purchased it the engine was orange. I'm getting ready to pull the motor to do some work and when finished paint it. Any thoughts?

Good Afternoon, It has been my experience that in 1979 GM Chevy painted their engines Blue and stayed that color until 1984 when they went Black.Another change on the engines was they moved the oil dipstick the right side of the block.Also in 1980 they(GM Chevy)went to using metric fasteners(nuts/bolts etc.),which when I built my '80 Vette I changed to SAE..

 

My VIN is: 1Z37L7S421334 (total production 49,213)

For the 1977 Corvette production year, between August 23 and September 7, 1976, the Flint Engine changed from orange paint to blue for Corvette engines.

 

 

Additionally: the alarm activator was moved from the driver side fender to the driver side door lock starting around serial number 27,373 (my '77 has the fender alarm activator).

 

Other 1977 Corvette somewhat rare options:

 

Code C49:...electro-clear rear window defogger

Code: UM2...AM/FM Stereo Radio W/Factory 8-Track Tape Player (Another first for a Corvette option) Original Radio and working

Code: ZX2...Convenience Group (This option consists of dome light delay, headlight warning buzzer, underhood light, low fuel warning light, interior courtesy lights and right side visor mirror.

 

Code: YJ8...Aluminum Wheels

 

Code: V54...Luggage and Roof Panel Rack (Rare option only...factory option in 1977 as previous years this was only a dealer installed item. This luggage rack has special brackets and a strap that fit onto the rack allowing the t-top roof panels to be strapped on and you can drive the vehicle like this).

|UPDATED|7/22/2016 10:20:21 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

vettjack is correct..I typed 1979 and was supposed to be 1977,Bad eyes and fat fingers.

The correct color is corporate blue. Eastwood is the only place that has the best match to original. The paint from local parts stores and corvette vendors isn't even close. it is a dark blue/green fro eastwood. The rattle cans from other places labeled Gm blue, chevy blue and corporate blue are a bright blue. 

Good information. Thank you. I haven't pulled the motor yet. Has anyone tried to pull the motor with the transmission attached? Can I get them out together? In my garage I.e. No lift.

It would probably be more troublesome trying to pull the motor/tranny together. I'm sure the radiator and surrounding components would have to come out...with the obvious of the hood coming off as well, no matter the configuration. My mechanic got my help in putting in 2 motors (1 in a C2 and 1 in C3), and both were put in without trannys. It seemed safer that way as well. Having an adjustable engine lift, a transmission lift, a 2 post and a 4 post lift, certainly goes a long way in a well equipped garage that my mechanic has.
The only guy that touches my 77 and 82 is: Corvette Interiors (Ron Wood), 2459 Cheney Hwy, Titusville, Florida 32780, 321-269-3887 

I'm going to wait until the weather calls a little. I have to pull the radiator since it seems I have a small leak. I might just pull the engine and trans fwd a bit to get to the trans bolts by the firewall. Your car looks great

I actually prefer to pull the engine and trans based on the type of transmission. Auto, leave the trans in. Manual, pull the trans with the motor. I'm not a big fan of trying to align the engine and trans in the car. Auto trans seem to be a little easier because there is no immediate connection from the flex plate to the torque converter, that can be accomplished once the motor is in. Manual trans on the other hand I prefer to align everything including the input shaft spline/clutch on the floor prior to installing the engine. Jack is correct that it necessitates pulling the hood, radiator, A/C condenser if equipped and the core support. It also requires you to pick the motor from the front of the car rather than over the fender if your pulling motor only. No lift required, just a good engine hoist. You may want to eyeball the reach of the engine hoist to make sure it is long enough if your coming fron the front. My buddies engine hoist also has front legs that spread out pretty far. Great for safety and stability, but it requires removal of one front tire. Good luck which ever way you do it and let us know how it turns out !!

To add to what John is saying concerning the manual cars....  I removed the tranny before I pulled the motor.  Might be more work than keeping them together, but certainly do-able and nothing too hard about it.  Now going in...different story.  I installed the tranny with the motor in the car and it was a bit of a bear.  Requires: help, patience, strength, a good back, and a fair amount of luck!