Topic: 500+hp in a 80 vette for drag racing...HELP!!!
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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I am putting a 383 with about 5oo - 500 hp in my 1980 vette and wondering a few things.
Do i need a heavy duty diff cover and where to get?( I don't think they make em for an 80 vette...wondering why....are the newer diffs strong enough?)
what will my drive train put up with for horsies and what do i need to change....i believe it is a borg warner 4spd....will i need to change the axels?....Ujoints?
whats the widest rim and slick combination i can fit in it with stock every thing in the back end?
My steering is sloppy and hard to keep straight at high speeds....how much play should i have in the relay rod to the steering control valve?...any other suggestions as to why it is hard to keep er in a straight line????
I don't know if i am maybe pushing my luck with sooo many questions here but i am finding it very hard to get answers and I would appreciate it sooooo much if you guys could help in anyway so i can get out there racing wit ya's
Much passion from a fellow vette lover.
Thanks
P.S. my friends ask me why i like corvettes.....i tells em "They are shaped like a beautiful women and handle like an anrgy Tiger"
Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehaw!!!!!!
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Not positive but you may have problems wiyh the rear & half shafts, especially if you run slicks. My '82 has bigger half shafts and a larger rear than the '80. I think the trans is OK.
DaveM 2007-04-25 16:05:51
Trouble keeping it straight could be the rear allignment and/or the front allignment. I would run it with slicks first and see how it goes. Maybe drag radials, but slicks will break parts.
Better to loose traction than loose your half shafts.
Dave
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82 
I always figured these vettes had the same running gear as the c2 big blocks and could handle 500 hp easy. Your clutch and pressure plate, if stock, may slip with that many ponies. Maybe go with solid u-joints. New diff clutch pack. I changed my diff cover but don't know why they don't list an '80 cover. It may be upgraded. Motor. trans, & diff bushings should be urathane. I would like some slicks for a weekend just to see what the car would do but wouldn't want any wider than is on there now. Hammering on it too much would break stuff for sure. Change out your steer cylinder and control valve and any hoses that leak. Four wheel alignment can't hurt either.
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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The earlier cars had the same basic driveline, but...the half-shafts, stub axles and flanges were beefier.
I'd have to agree with parts breakage...the half-shafts and u-joints will be the first things to take a dump.
The trans will take it just fine, as long as it is in good condition to start with.
I would suggest changing the clutch out, tho...maybe go to a CenterForce type...they work really well, without adding any pressure on the pedal.
You should have NO play in the steering...
The '80 diffs are what they are...I don't know of any heavy-duty housings for them.
Pushing your luck with questions? Not likely!!! We LOVE questions!! Just hope we can come up with the answers!
I'd have to agree with parts breakage...the half-shafts and u-joints will be the first things to take a dump.
The trans will take it just fine, as long as it is in good condition to start with.
I would suggest changing the clutch out, tho...maybe go to a CenterForce type...they work really well, without adding any pressure on the pedal.
You should have NO play in the steering...
The '80 diffs are what they are...I don't know of any heavy-duty housings for them.
Pushing your luck with questions? Not likely!!! We LOVE questions!! Just hope we can come up with the answers!
Joel Adams
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Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
I would upgrade your universals, especially if those puppies are 25 years old. I hate gettin beat up with my own half shafts!!! 
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Vette(s): 1980 with a Banks Twin Turbo
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THe 80 to 82 Rear Ends are Completly different than the Previous Rear axles. They are a Dana 44 and the Housing is all Aluminum and its Bolted in differently than the Earlyer ones. It is Basicly a C4 Rear end in a C3. When the C4 came out they went to the Dana 36 for Automatics and only Used the Dana 44's for HP Cars like the ZR-1's Etc. The Rear end was Engineered for a Hydraulic Clutch where the Tork Load could be Controled but in the C3's it was just sent out the Door with out a Hydaulic Clutch to find out how many Came back on waranty. I don't hink to many did. I agree that the U-Joints will be the Weak Point. Richard...
About the transmission. As Joel said, it better be in good shape.
I'm assuming it a BW Super T-10 (aluminum case), not a cast iron Muncie.
A few years ago I exceeded the limits of my high mileage T-10 in the '81. It cracked in two like an egg. The crate engine I put in could pump out around 380 ft.lbs. torque. The stock engine was only rated at 280 ft.lbs.
So upon replacement with a brand new T-10 now built by Richmond Gear, I noticed that they came in different torque capability ratings. My stock transmission was rated to handle 300 ft.lbs. according to their book. So I opted for the 375 ft.lbs. version. I've had great service out of this trans for a few years now. I wished that the Keisler 5 speed kit was around back when I did this. I would have gone the route instead.
my .02 cents
GEN III 5.7L "LS6" Engine swap
TKO500 5 spd.
3.54 Dana 44
'69 "N11" Sidepipes
Borgeson Steering Box
Born 8/1981
Sequence #3975
Click here to see more pics of my Vette on CarDomain.
Lifetime Member #26
Borgeson Steering Box
Born 8/1981
Sequence #3975
Click here to see more pics of my Vette on CarDomain.
Lifetime Member #26
As to the steering, check your cylinders and hoses and replace (see the latest edition of Shark Bytes for a detailed tech article on replacement).
Check your steering box on the drivers side frame rail to see if the bolts are tight. Mine on my '80 were only finger tight. Also, if the little screw on top of the steering box is flush with the nut, you need a new steering box.
Also check the rag joint for wear, tears, etc and replace as necessary.
GOOD LUCK!!!!
All the above is easy, just time consuming.
Check your steering box on the drivers side frame rail to see if the bolts are tight. Mine on my '80 were only finger tight. Also, if the little screw on top of the steering box is flush with the nut, you need a new steering box.
Also check the rag joint for wear, tears, etc and replace as necessary.
GOOD LUCK!!!!
All the above is easy, just time consuming.
Well you guys are great....thanks for all the advice.
I really do appreciate it.
Have a blast
Big Daddy,
Whatever you come up wit, I hope you have a great time wearing her out. Nuttin like stomping it and smelling da smoke as da car slightly drifts from center. What a feeling and it sounds like you will be doin just dat.
LOL, gurtz
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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