I finished putting on the new seals I got for my calipers last night. I did the front two only. I also chose not to replace the pads at the moment. I want to see if cleaning them off will work good enough for right now. I have air in my lines so I'm going to have to bleed them tonight. I really hope this works. If it does, I just want to let you know that it is really easy. If you don't want to spend a lot of money on new calipers because a seal has gone bad, then just get a seal kit for $10.50 and do it yourself. The longest part was actually getting around to order the kit and finding time to actually do it. It took 10 minutes tops, to put the new seals on. But like I said, all the above is good info if after I bleed the brakes tonight I get some pressure back in my pedal, and the fluid chooses to stay in the brake system. I've never bled brakes before. Any tips? I believe I only have to do the front two because they are the only lines I opened up. Correct??

I personally would bleed the whole system. Not sure if just bleeding the one I worked on would actually work or not. Never tried it that way but the sequence you bleed them is
right rear inner,
right rear outer,
left rear inner,
left rear outer.
Front calipers only have one bleeder.
right front,
left front.

Dale,
I agree with James totally on bleeding the whole system. It might not be required, but it would be best. I have a manual from Stainless Steel Brake Corp. that I will scan the proper way to bleed corvette brakes, and e-mail to you.

|UPDATED|6/10/2002 10:09:28 AM|/UPDATED|

I just did my brakes which inevitably led to needing a new master cylinder. Bleeding all four brakes may take some extra time but then you can inspect the rear brake pads as well.I suggest that if you have minimal brake pad left, get new pads and spend the extra $15 and get the roters turned while your at it.

My pads are in good shape as well as my rotors too. The brake equipment only had about 10,000 miles on them. The reason I asked about the bleeding is that my Haynes manual says you only need to bleed the brake lines that have been opened. But I'll probably do all four if I have the time because it wouldn't hurt. I'm just hoping for no leaks and a nice stiff pedal.

I'd also recommend bleeding all the lines, especially if you're using regular DOT3 brake fluid (it never hurts to get the old stuff out of there periodically). The Haynes manual I have lists the bleeding sequence on page 9-9 - Section 15.

I only had time to bleed the front lines last night. This brought good news and bad news of course. The good being that the fluid wasn't leaking like it did two weeks ago. Even after a short ride the fluid level was the same as it was when I left. But the bad, which isn't really that bad, is that as my friend was pumping the pedal I could see fluid coming out of the soaked pad and when I was driving I could hear the rotors slipping. So I just ordered new Bendix semi metallic pads for the front for just under $30. They will be in tomorrow. I can't wait to get it rolling again. After the new pad installation I'm going to take it out again and closely observe everything. Hopefully the cheap overhaul kit worked for me.

That's great. Hopfully you can get by with this, and it may just run 3 or 4 years with out any trouble. Later
Glen


|QUOTE|VTHokie77Vette said: I only had time to bleed the front lines last night. This brought good news and bad news of course. The good being that the fluid wasn't leaking like it did two weeks ago. Even after a short ride the fluid level was the same as it was when I left. But the bad, which isn't really that bad, is that as my friend was pumping the pedal I could see fluid coming out of the soaked pad and when I was driving I could hear the rotors slipping. So I just ordered new Bendix semi metallic pads for the front for just under $30. They will be in tomorrow. I can't wait to get it rolling again. After the new pad installation I'm going to take it out again and closely observe everything. Hopefully the cheap overhaul kit worked for me.|/QUOTE|

Good job on the calipers. Too bad you ended up with fluid on the pads. Make sure you really clean the rotor or you are gonna end up in the same situation. I don't know what to tell you to use to clean it with to make sure it really gets all the fluid off. Any good suggestions out there?

|QUOTE|glenns said: Good job on the calipers. Too bad you ended up with fluid on the pads. Make sure you really clean the rotor or you are gonna end up in the same situation. I don't know what to tell you to use to clean it with to make sure it really gets all the fluid off. Any good suggestions out there?|/QUOTE|

There is a product for spraying brake dust off of wheel cylinders, and rotors, I've got a can of "brake dust remover". It will remove the brake fluid, too. Any good parts store will have all different kinds of spray can stuff that will do the job. Wal-Mart has all kinds, too