I started this thread to keep it cleaned up. Please only post if you have question or are submitting something.

The purpose is to compose a checklist of what to look for when purchasing a C3. None of us know it all. Not even close. We need each other. No tidbit is too small to consider. Your own past grief can add to this list.

Information can be submitted by file transfer, mail, or if you need it I will give you a fax number.

Ben (cthulha) has agreed to compile the list. I will edit the information.
We are hoping different folks will step up to help in any catagory. Body, interior, matching numbers, frame, any catagory. Our forum catagories are a good guidline.

Adam, where do you want this when done? That's up to you. When I finally finish the Q-jet article, Adam will distribute it. That will be worked out in the future. We may do somthing similar. Suggestions?

Keep in mind, this will be an purchase/inspection list. Not a repair manual.

All submission can be posted here or sent to:

Ken Styer
1675 Williams St
Cuyahoga Falls OH 44221
bunky44221@yahoo.com

or

Ben
cthulha@staff.direclynx.net

After going back through this thread, I did't see anything pertaing to checking the rocker channels. Is there a way to check the rocked channels for rust with out removing or lifting the body.

Silver69 said:Is there a way to check the rocked channels for rust with out removing or lifting the body.

Educated guess. Inspect the body mounts at #2 and #3 location. If those areas are pretty rusty, chances are real good the channels have had it. If they are REAL bad you may notice loose latch or hinge pillars. You will need to remove the kick panels, rear wheels, and the small rear inspection covers to accomplish this. If you get a seller who refuses to let you do this, seek another car unless it looks really, really clean underneath.

Don't forget to inspect the frame for straightness and repairs, rust, damage , etc.

I pushed mine on the trailer and pushed it off, I bought a project, my biggest concern was what was there and what was not. I checked the door corners, pillars, crawled along the ground and poked the frame with a pick, accounted for everything other than bumpers paid and left. Found a few more things some 4 months into project. Rearend cover where it mounts to the cross spring, cracked bolt holes, common, but overlooked. Fuel tank had been removed and put back, sorta. Build sheet gone. Both of those items were easy to spot once I looked closely. It was represented that the car had not been touched other than engine swap in 76. He knew of rearend plate when he attempted to swap the fuel tank, it was rusty. Anyway just my four dollars & twenty cents worth.
But! I keep smiling each time I look in the garage.

MIkey and his 73 beast.

There is always something that you are going to find,no matter how good a pre-inspection you do .but so far I think you guys are doing great at this list.like I say somethings you wo'nt find till you start really digging into the car,and then KACHING$$$$$$$$$

I heard of a great idea to check for rust.

Get some plain white paper and place it under various rust prone parts of the car and simply open and close the doors. If there is a rust problem you will see rust on the paper.

This can be especially useful by placing paper under the dash by the kick panels to check for significant windshield frame rust.

I would also ask if you can remove a screw on each side of the windshield pillar post mouldings. If they are frozen in place chances are good there is at least some rust. You will have to use extreme care but when you are spending 20k - 60k why take a chance.

Even dry weather cars will rust on the corners just because when use wash them the water might get trapped between the frame and the vinyl covered mouldings around the windshield.


Bill

Ken & Ben,
Between now and good weather time, many people start seriously looking at C3 purchases.
Do we have enough info here that a logical checklist for the novice can be created and kept in a handy, easy to find location?
I would be willing to help in any way I can.
What do you guys think?

I still have everything submitted so far. If anyone has anything new or to add, please send it along. Then I will get what I have to Ben.

Man, time sneaks up on you when you're busy!

will the car start ?
warm up ?
idle on its own power for 20 minutes ?
look for leaks after idle.
is the rear spring flat?
is there water in oil after 20 min idle?
is there moisture coming from tail pipe after warm up?
is the idle smooth in park/neutral
is the idle smooth in drive (auto only)
is the idle temp high?
is the vaccum stable at idle, is it stable at 2000 rpm?
does the exhaust pass the burnt valve paper test?
pull three random plugs, check condition.
does wiper door open (68-72) does it close properly?
do head lights open and close properly?
check parking brake operation

do rear wheels have play?
check drive shaft u-joints for play
check half shaft joints for play
check body mounts for excessive rust and damage (including ones behind wheel well access panels)
pull one front and rear tire (opposite sides) and check brakes. (look for brake fluid on the inside of wheels)
check tie rod ends.
check convert top operation
check rear windows for creases,
make sure deck lid opens and closes properly

useful tools to take along

good floor jack
2 jack stands
flashlight
mechanics mirror
small ruler (measuring body gaps)
spark plug sockets (5/8 and 13/16), ratchet and extension
regular socket set. (1/4 and 3/8 drive)
vacuum/fuel pressure gauge


keep this going please !

|UPDATED|7/26/2004 8:57:12 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|