Topic: C3 checklist creation
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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Former Member
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Wayne, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/31/2002
Posts: 973
Vette(s): White 1975 L48 Stingray 129,000 Miles, daily driver.
How to look for Birdcage Rust. Formatting needed.
Mark,
My 75 has birdcage rust. The places that it is most obvious in are. The vertical edges of the windshield (A-Pillars) the windshield is transparent enough that you should be able to see a little rust there, my windshield also has brown stains running down the edges on the passengers side but you cannot see the rust on the pillar, obviously rusted. The bottom of the windshield frame is rusted, I can see the holes right off. these two things I was quoted around $1000 to fix, but that's assuming they don't break the windshield pulling it and there isn't more rust than expected. New windshield is around $500 from them. The other major place I noticed birdcage rust is in the lower part of the A-Pillar where the door hinges in. If you look near the hinges you might see rust if its really bad, if its not there may still be rust if you reach under the dash and around to where the hinges come into the car(may not be possible for you, depends on your flexibility and if the car has A/C ducts...mine are AWOL so under the dash is very open.) Those are the places I know of to look for for birdcage rust, another test is to have the owner run water over the roof of the car and windshield, if you can see, feel or detect evidence of the water entering the car, something is amiss be it rust or bad weatherstripping or something else.
Scot
Hope this helps! Remember, don't rush, you'll find one!
Mark,
My 75 has birdcage rust. The places that it is most obvious in are. The vertical edges of the windshield (A-Pillars) the windshield is transparent enough that you should be able to see a little rust there, my windshield also has brown stains running down the edges on the passengers side but you cannot see the rust on the pillar, obviously rusted. The bottom of the windshield frame is rusted, I can see the holes right off. these two things I was quoted around $1000 to fix, but that's assuming they don't break the windshield pulling it and there isn't more rust than expected. New windshield is around $500 from them. The other major place I noticed birdcage rust is in the lower part of the A-Pillar where the door hinges in. If you look near the hinges you might see rust if its really bad, if its not there may still be rust if you reach under the dash and around to where the hinges come into the car(may not be possible for you, depends on your flexibility and if the car has A/C ducts...mine are AWOL so under the dash is very open.) Those are the places I know of to look for for birdcage rust, another test is to have the owner run water over the roof of the car and windshield, if you can see, feel or detect evidence of the water entering the car, something is amiss be it rust or bad weatherstripping or something else.
Scot
Hope this helps! Remember, don't rush, you'll find one!
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this is from another site but what I used when i bought me 78.
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/buyform.html?
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/buyform.html?

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
what ever happened to this thread ??
any progress..
the form above is a good start but isnt very thorough
|UPDATED|7/20/2004 9:10:24 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
any progress..
the form above is a good start but isnt very thorough
|UPDATED|7/20/2004 9:10:24 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
I haven't started to edit it yet. I am still waiting for submissions. And I have things of my own. I got a few things.
Anyone care to add?
Anyone care to add?
Ken, you might want to look here
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part1.htm
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part2.htm
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part3.htm
Hank
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part1.htm
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part2.htm
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part3.htm
Hank
This might be something good to make into an ACTUAL checklist and put in shark bytes or included with your new membership package.
|IMG|http://www.C3VR.com/member_uploads/3701_3800/3714/duskbgoddesssmall.jpg|/IMG| |B|Semper Fidelis! |/B|

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
Davii said: This might be something good to make into an ACTUAL checklist and put in shark bytes or included with your new membership package. |
thats what were doing
asking members for input, ken is going to edit for contect and im going to lay it out as a pdf and edit for spelling/grammar etc.
if you have any pre purchase checklist ideas please post them.
|UPDATED|7/27/2004 1:17:22 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Former Member
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COLUMBUS, MS - USA
Joined: 1/11/2004
Posts: 331
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe; 350 4-speed with GM sidepipes;
Classic White/Saddle
(1) Remove door sill plates (four phillips screws and thirty seconds) to inspect (a) correctness, fading and condition of carpeting and insulation (b) floor pan for breaks/damages/repairs, and (c) rust stains and/or water stains/mildew on the side rails, floor pans etc. that could indicate "active" leak issues. Also helpful to confirm original finish if data plate has been "faked".
(2) Remove the ashtray for an easy glimpse of a favorite "critter nest". Also helpful in checking rubber shift boot for holes.
(3) Pull the rear window (coupe) and examine weatherstripping for cracking, holes, etc. Carefully examine ALL door and T-top weatherstrip.
(4) Crawl under both dashes to carefully examine the loose wiring and harnesses. You will need a good flashlight for the inspection . . . and prescription muscle relaxers to get to sleep for the next three nights.
(5) Check the functioning of the door locks. I know it sounds obvious, but some replacement parts can be tricky to come by and a genuine PITA to replace/repair.
(6) Road test the functioning of the speedo and odo. Not terribly expensive for the parts, but the work involved is only eclipsed by that of a rear suspension re-do. Trust me on this one - I've done both
Some of this may sound a little picky, but it's all easy and worth the trouble - especially for a big $$ buy.
John
PS - If you jack up the car (and I believe you should), be sure to open the doors, the top(s) and the hood before starting.
(2) Remove the ashtray for an easy glimpse of a favorite "critter nest". Also helpful in checking rubber shift boot for holes.
(3) Pull the rear window (coupe) and examine weatherstripping for cracking, holes, etc. Carefully examine ALL door and T-top weatherstrip.
(4) Crawl under both dashes to carefully examine the loose wiring and harnesses. You will need a good flashlight for the inspection . . . and prescription muscle relaxers to get to sleep for the next three nights.

(5) Check the functioning of the door locks. I know it sounds obvious, but some replacement parts can be tricky to come by and a genuine PITA to replace/repair.
(6) Road test the functioning of the speedo and odo. Not terribly expensive for the parts, but the work involved is only eclipsed by that of a rear suspension re-do. Trust me on this one - I've done both

Some of this may sound a little picky, but it's all easy and worth the trouble - especially for a big $$ buy.
John
PS - If you jack up the car (and I believe you should), be sure to open the doors, the top(s) and the hood before starting.

in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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