I’m new to this and have a couple of questions. I found a 68, convertible, 350, 4 speed. The owner says is a numbers cars, is there a way to verify this?? Also, the frame has what it looks like surface rust but no holes anywhere I can see, Can some one tell me were should I look for rust?, another question I have the vin number 194679S728894, How can I find what color, options, etc this car had?. Any help will be highly appreciated. There is also a 1973, available for a bit less money, it is also a convertible, 350, 4 speed, but it has an L46 engine and A/C. they are both in need of restoration, since they have being sitting for over 8 years. Which car do you guys think, will be a better car to own and enjoy?.

Regarding matching #'s, Try this site:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3000/matchnos.html

Regarding other questions, the year you want to own is a matter of personal preference. 73's are desirable in that they were the last steel bumper c-3 (back bumper). '68's were the first c-3's but had many problems, from what I understand. Others on this site may be able to give more info on problems with '68's with parts, etc. It seems in this market a convertible has more value. If you are not a mechanic, I would suggest trying to get a knowlegable corvette person to look at both cars for you. Restorations can be very costly. My personal experience, having owned 3 c-3's, and not being a mechanic is 'buyer beware'!!! If you try to save money going into a sale, you will end up paying later on when you go to restore it. My rules of thumb (not being a mechnaic) would be: 1.buy the best mechanical matching #'s car you can afford. 2. Expect even with that, that there will be some suprises. I'm sure with the many experienced people on this site you'll get some other opinions.

|UPDATED|4/26/2003 8:00:12 AM|/UPDATED|

J,

Looking in the Corvette Black Book (1953-2003) by Mike Antonick there isn't a 350ci engine listed for the '68s. There is a 350hp/327ci though. The 350ci first shows up in the '69s, with 300hp or 350hp.

Here on the site on the Tools tab is a VIN decoder. I plugged the year and VIN number you listed into it and here's what it displayed back:
Your VIN Report:
Division (1): Chevrolet
Car Line (9467): Corvette Convertible
Model Year (9): 1969
Plant (S): St. Louis, MO
Sequence Number: 728894

If the seller insists it's a '68 I don't think the 'numbers match' claim holds any water.

Here's a few things to look for if it is truely a '68:
- ignition switch on the dash (moved to the steering column on the '69s)
- outside push button for door latch (incorporated into the upper finger well in '69)
- narrower wheels, '68s have 7x15 - 8x15s started on the '69s
- no Stingray lettering on the body (showed up on the '69s)

There's a bunch more little differences between the two years. Go to a bookstore or the library and get most any large 'coffee table' type picture book on Vettes and there should be differences between the two years highlighted in the text.

I agree with David that it is a personal decision on whatever year you pick. The '68 (or '69?) will have more get-up-and-go because of higher horsepower ratings over the '73 (unless it has had some motor tweeking done to it). As David pointed out the '73 is a bit more unique because it is a transition year (like the '61-62s) and it is the 20th anniversary model. The '73s (and beyond) also don't have the vaccuum operated wiper door (which can be a major P.I.T.A.) like the '68-72s.

And as far as finding out what either car was like when it was built - GOOD LUCK...!!! G.M. didn't keep track of things very well at the St. Louis plant so the only sure fire way to know is to find a build sheet somewhere on either car. Most of the time they were glued to the top of the gas tank but they have been known to surface in other places on cars.

Almost forgot to mention - on the driver's side front door jamb there should be a silver, rectangular plate called the trim tag. If it is original to the car it will tell you the month/day the car was built (within a day or two in most cases), the original exterior color, and the original interior color/trim level.

Lots of little things to consider...!!! Enjoy...!!!

|UPDATED|4/26/2003 11:27:08 PM|/UPDATED|

I couldn't agree with dlrshort more! Take your time and get a good C3 education, especially if you aren't a mechanic. There is nothing wrong with buying a good 'driver', but, there is also something to be said for a matching numbers car that is gaining value while you're out having fun with it.

Chrome bumpered convertibles are definitely becoming a hot item and anything with an engine above the base model is getting tough to find (mine took over a year). The L-46 350 is a great choice (L-79 327 in '68) as is any original LT-1. Personally I think any legitimate LT-1 (350/370 hp 1970-72 only) is going to see a substantial jump in value and is WELL worth the money for restoration. Bear in mind though, I wasn't able to find a worthy LT-1 convert in a years time. The other problem is the high octane requirements, see my thread "high octane fuel anyone" under the "Fuel Emissions & Exhaust" forum.

However, if you are planning on having the engine rebuilt on whatever you buy you may be able to save a few bucks by buying a base 300hp model and then have the engine built to perform to the level you are looking for.

The Black book is an inexpensive must, and, I just picked up a book for my vacation last week (no vettes in the Caribbean anywhere, just Toyotas, wife's vacation choice) called "Corvette 1968-1982 - sports car color history" by Mike Mueller & published by MBI Publishing. It's a great intro book that goes into good detail on all of the C3 years (over 100 pages well written for $22.95 with great pictures). How they were developed and changes that were made from year to year as well as the slow dropoff in performance in the early '70's is all in there.

Bottom line, take you're time and buy whats right for you so that you can enjoy with no regrets!! I suggest deciding on what is the most important to you and what your budget looks like. Depending on what you decide there are many knowledgable people here that can help you with your search. Best of luck!!

PS: the book information is also being posted under general discussion

The VIN you gave indicates a 69. what is the seller calling it? The only way to tell colors is from the trim code on the driver's door pillar. No other information can be obtained from the VIN. Buy the Corvette Black Book, the NCRS Spec guide and take along a knowledgable Corvette enthusiast who really knows Corvettes and what to look for. To tell you what to check out would take all day and we would all have writers cramp? Do not buy on impulse because there are some hidden areas on the frame that often have rotten spots. Same with the windshield pillar.
Gary

Thanks everyone for the response, you are all correct it is a 69 not a 68. I went back Sunday to inspect the car with a friend that has done a body off restoration on a 72, after inspecting the car we decided not to buy it. This car has being sitting outside, uncovered, on a farm for over 8 years,and the Florida sun and rain have done lots of damage, the engine was removed and there are parts everywhere. I’m not a mechanic by trade, but I’m one by choice, and hobby, but I’m afraid that this is over my head. The owner was asking $6K for the car, but after looking around I think I can purchase, maybe for a bit more, a car that is at least on one piece. Again than you for your help, and I will definitely buy the books recommended……. The search continues………..