Didn't know how to title this or if this is the best area for it so here goes. These are questions sorta related to my radiator replacement questions in "Cooling". Figured I should do some other things while I got a little more room to work with the radiator out.
1- Water Pump. Looks old, very worn blue paint and "GM" #'s on it, but it works. I'm thinking replace before it bites me sooner or later??
2- I would like to clean up minor surface rust and worn paint. What should I use on the front frame cross member and radiator tray? Flat? Glossy? Also the black pulleys and brackets on the front that hold all the belts tight?
3- Blue engine paint. Whatever's blue I would like to redo blue. Is brushing in place a possiblity or should I get spray cans and cover everything? Do you prime under engine paint? Who sells the good stuff?
I have done a little painting in the past so i do know to clean grease and stuff real good and use that metal prep stuff.
4- The front wheel A arms or whatever they are called. The rubber bushings, 2 each side top and bottom I believe. Very dried, cracked and old looking. Looks easy enough to do or am I missing something? Are the nylon ones better than new rubber?
Sorry if this is a lot of questions, but I really appreciate all the help I have gotten from all the C3VR members since I joined 1 year ago.
Jeffm2008-02-21 20:09:05

1) Water pumps are reasonably cheap(around $20 here)...I'd suggest replacing while you have the radiator out, and have the extra room to work with. Pay the core charge for the new pump, and keep your old one, if it is original to the car. They can be rebuilt.

2) Semi-gloss, or a Satin black

3) GM "Corporate Blue" is the correct color. Don't think brushing would yield very good results, but then, I've never tried it, either. I'd clean everything as best I could, mask off what I didn't want to paint, and then spray it on. I would also suggest you do this before spraying the black parts. No primer needed. Most decent auto parts houses have Krylon, or some other name brand, and should also have the correct blue engine enamel paint.

4) Replacing the upper and/or lower control arm bushings is a pretty involved job. If you are removing your radiator shroud to do this other stuff, then that would make it much easier to get the upper control arms off for bushing replacement.
Rubber or urethane bushings is a decision you would need to make considering the use of the car. If you just use the car for a daily driver, or a weekender, I'd suggest staying with what GM used, which is the rubber ones. If you drive hard, and do some autocrossing, or kahana type stuff, then the urethane bushings would be a better choice. If you want to do the bushings yourself, I would recommend you get the factory service manual first, and follow the procedures listed. Removing the lower control arm can be dangerous if not you're careful!
Of course, if you run into any troubles, you always have C3VR to help out!!

Listen to Joel......

I would stick with an American made water pump.  You can do a lot of damage if a cheap foreign one fails at speed.

Use a good rust converting paint such as POR15 if there is surface rust, unless you canget every bit of it off.

If you are going to replace the control arm bushings, you might as well get a front end rebuild kit and do it all. We sell a kit of all American made parts.  Joel is right in saying that unless you are going to race the car, you will be happier with ride of the original rubber.  Before you break loose the ball joints, put a chain through the spring and something solid so it can't fly out at you.

Before you hop to painting, steam clean or pressure wash the engine and underhood areas.  You'd be surprised what a difference it will make.  Once things are clean, take another look and go from there.

for #2, if you have a "Tractor Supply" store by you, buy a few spray cans of satin black "Implement Paint". This stuff is more durable than the original chassis paint when it dries. It's made to protect farm equipment that sits outdoors....just clean up real good before you start. You'll be happy with this stuff!

Thanks everyone, Lots of good advise. I will be taking it all into account. I got all the stuff off the front of the motor and now I'm looking at the timing chain cover behind the balancer wheel. Some sepage around the lower part of the cover. Should I keep going and do the chain? One of the books says you have to loosen or remove oil pan to do timing chain cover?
Between the front control arm bushings and timing chain cover, I might just go see my local machcanic and see if he needs any carpentry work done. Gotta save money somehow.
When do you stop? It's a long way to the back bumper.

[QUOTE=Jeffm] Thanks everyone, Lots of good advise. I will be taking it all into account. I got all the stuff off the front of the motor and now I'm looking at the timing chain cover behind the balancer wheel. Some sepage around the lower part of the cover. Should I keep going and do the chain? One of the books says you have to loosen or remove oil pan to do timing chain cover? Between the front control arm bushings and timing chain cover, I might just go see my local machcanic and see if he needs any carpentry work done. Gotta save money somehow.When do you stop? It's a long way to the back bumper.
[/QUOTE]

Oh man I love that.... when do I stop..... NEVER! If and when you find a stopping point Jeff you send me a PM!

It doesn't matter if they are new or old you just keep shoveling $$$ at them... I have spent a boat load on both vettes this winter and it's not over yet... I sure hope Spring comes soon cause if I'm driven them I'm not spendin $$$ on them.....

 Yeah man it's hard to stop once ya get started. I got no preference either way but the local vette shop here refuses to install poly A-arm bushings, said they have a tendancy to not stay put.

well jeff, i've become a master at replacing the timing cover/oil pan.  i've been trying to stop a leak out of the  timing cover seal for  2 years now.