I've recently removed the body from my frame. It's a '68, so it's basically the same. I have seen many different ways of supporting bodies, it depends on resources I suppose. I made mine out of tube steel and welded posts at each body mount point. It's a bit of an exercise determining these locations and heights. I've seen them made from 2X4 lumber also. I've also seen a group of people "share" an old 'vette frame modified to accept a body for restoration. I have also seen universal type body supports in magazines for a few hundred bucks. And no, you don't have to take the dash out.

Thank you for the info, I like the idea of welding a quick frame together that match the body mount location.

On the matching numbers question, I was under the impression that there wasn't identical numbers on the block and the car body but you looked for production time periods with the block being molded a month or two before the car came off the production line. Am I way off base on this issue?

You actually have both. The VIN number is stamped on the forward passenger side of the block deck. Counterfeiters and overzealous restorers replicate these stamped numbers. You can even rent the stamps to do this with. In my mind, it's still a fake. Dates in the casting are also an issue and can be faked as well.

On Corvettes in particular, the VIN# is stamped in four places that I know of in addition to the VIN tag.

1. There is a machined pad on the passenger side front of the motor that should have two stamps. One matches the last 9 digits of the VIN amd the other specifically identifies the motor, the date the motor was assembled and at what plant the motor was assembled.

2. The Transmission is stamped with the last 9 digits of the VIN.

3. The rear is stamped with the VIN, again last 9 digits.

4. The frame itself is stamped with the last 9 digits of the VIN.

It gets kind of techinical with the other componenets on the car for it to truly be a numbers matching car. Most people are referring to the Motor, Trans, and Rear when they say numbers matching.

For example, the heads, intake, exhaust manifolds, water pump etc must have dates the occur before the actual build date of the motor for obvious reasons.

If you are really interested NCRS has a judging guide that will detail what your car should have to be correct. The amount of detail you want to go in to is commesurate with your pocket book unless you purchase what is called a "survivor" type original car. This means Bubba missed that one!

There are more than a few guys who have spent $50k on a car that is only worth $30K just to have it "correct".

There are unscrupulous people that will restamp components to make them appear correct. That is wht there appear to be soooo many 427/435 hp cars! They do it so well that even the experts can no longer tell them apart.

I hopes this helps rather than confuses you.


Bill

Great info, unless for some unknow reason this car was sent from the factory with a 327 block I lack only the block of having a numbers matching corvette. The heads, transmission, rear end, etc are original. The block was made in 1969 but it only a two bolt main instead of the four bolt that corvette's were known for. I found another 350/4 bolt main which I will trick out a little, or maybe a lot. I was going to try and get back to original until I found out about the block. I am now going to keep as much orginal as I can and also at the same time change just enough so I can have fun.

It's not unusual to find a car that's been re-blocked. Unfortunately a 327 would not have been put in a '70 anything.
You could look for a correct dated block to get as close as you can though. (for appearances). Although I don't agree with restamps, you could "deck" the block and remove any wrong numbers. No numbers better than wrong ones. More difficult to find, but acceptable would be to locate an "over the counter" or replacement block.
The car will never be original, and I think Norsky said something like "once they leave the factory, none are original!" Don't sweat it and enjoy the car.
Another way of looking at it is, the cars that were on the street kicking butt and blowing motors were the ones that earned the vette it's reputation!

Very true, after I was over the disappointment of not having a numbers matching car I did resign myself to the fun part of owning a corvette. It is a awesome car even if the numbers are not the ones it rolled out of the factor with. The car is in need of lots of TLC and I feel honored being the one to put her back on the streets again.

I'm enjoying seeing mine start to come back together too. I hope to have the body back on in a week or 2.
Mine is a legitimate 427-435, but the only thing remaining when I bought it was the tank sticker. I'm putting it back together with the correct part and casting numbers ,dates are secondary, AND I ABSOLUTELY REFUSE TO RESTAMP OR MIS-REPRESENT THE CAR! It's a true restoration, not an original car that's been hiding for 36 years. I'm putting build sheets in the car as it goes back together, but they will be printed from a scan of the original, put in a plastic cover with a note or diary of the project.

I applaud those unwilling to misrepresent their car!

I also have a legitimate 427/435 that has all its documentation. When I bought the car it came with the remnants of the tank sticker, but the original window sticker was complete along with copies of the original bill of sale and registration, and the subsequent bill of sale. I'm now the third registered owner. It also came with receipts for the engine overhaul, etc. from the last owner.

I wish my '78 Silver Anniversary came with such complete documentation. The car is in great overall shape but I'm still fighting gremlins from prior owners that keep cropping up.