Topic: Kwiklift ?
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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Does anyone have any experience with a Kwiklift?


I do not have the room for a 4 post lift, but would like something to make it a bit easier to get under the car for routine maintenance, plus I like the portability of this type of lift.
Note: Pictures "borrowed" from Kwiklift's website....not my cars...


I do not have the room for a 4 post lift, but would like something to make it a bit easier to get under the car for routine maintenance, plus I like the portability of this type of lift.
Note: Pictures "borrowed" from Kwiklift's website....not my cars...
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Chris,
I agree. Like everyone else, they always advertise the rock bottom price...no options, but if you want to use it...be ready to pay more. From what I saw on their website, the $1295 or so option is the way to go, powder coated, with bridge, chocks, and ramp extensions....I think....
Jim,
I also posted a similar question on Corvetteforum (hope I not going to get flamed for that comment). I was told to search their archive files for Kwiklift...which I did. Several good threads of information....most if not all that I've read so far have all been good. Someone has even pulled his rear suspension out while on the lift.
I agree. Like everyone else, they always advertise the rock bottom price...no options, but if you want to use it...be ready to pay more. From what I saw on their website, the $1295 or so option is the way to go, powder coated, with bridge, chocks, and ramp extensions....I think....
Jim,
I also posted a similar question on Corvetteforum (hope I not going to get flamed for that comment). I was told to search their archive files for Kwiklift...which I did. Several good threads of information....most if not all that I've read so far have all been good. Someone has even pulled his rear suspension out while on the lift.
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moro, IL - USA
Joined: 2/11/2002
Posts: 406
Vette(s): 1979 Black coupe. 11256 original, documented, miles on it when I bought it in April of 2000. It now has 13100 on it. Oyster interior, like new. Everything original, everything works, except the clock. Paint has a couple of minor flaws.
A fellow from another forum built some ramps out of 3 sheets of particle board, and 2x12's. here is the info, I'll try to send a pic.
blk79
Binnie77
Junior Member
Member # 46
Rate Member
posted April 15, 2002 08:55 PM
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The ramps are indeed easy to build.
Both sections are built identical. The ramps are 10'9" in length. You can
construct them from 2"x10" or 2"x12". In this set I used 2"x10" and then
nailed a couple of lengths of 1"x6" on each side on the bottom to give some
extra lateral support. The top and bottom are 2"x10" with 2"X10" uprights on
16" centers. You will need 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood or waferboard for the
sides. Cut each sheet of plywood into 3 strips 16" wide. It will take one
sheet per ramp. Use 2 1/2" spiral nails on the side pieces. Use 3 1/2"
spiral on the framework. On the ends where the car comes up, spike another
piece of 2" x 10" to support the planks for driving the car up on. These 2
planks only need to be about 7' long with a couple supports under them.
With that short a length my side pipes still clear fine. I am going to mount
a couple of permanent lights and a 110v receptacle on the inner sides of the
supports. If you have a good level floor they will be very stable and will
support a bulldozer. I can almost sit on the floor under the car but not
quite. I mark the floor with a felt marker so that each year it only takes
me about 5 minutes to place them and drive the car up on them.
I have attached a couple of pictures of my car up on the ramps. Over the
winter I cleaned up the under carriage and did a bit of detailing.
--------------------
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Posts: 3 | From: Nova Scotia | Registered: Apr 2001 | IP: Logged

blk79
Binnie77
Junior Member
Member # 46
Rate Member
posted April 15, 2002 08:55 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The ramps are indeed easy to build.
Both sections are built identical. The ramps are 10'9" in length. You can
construct them from 2"x10" or 2"x12". In this set I used 2"x10" and then
nailed a couple of lengths of 1"x6" on each side on the bottom to give some
extra lateral support. The top and bottom are 2"x10" with 2"X10" uprights on
16" centers. You will need 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood or waferboard for the
sides. Cut each sheet of plywood into 3 strips 16" wide. It will take one
sheet per ramp. Use 2 1/2" spiral nails on the side pieces. Use 3 1/2"
spiral on the framework. On the ends where the car comes up, spike another
piece of 2" x 10" to support the planks for driving the car up on. These 2
planks only need to be about 7' long with a couple supports under them.
With that short a length my side pipes still clear fine. I am going to mount
a couple of permanent lights and a 110v receptacle on the inner sides of the
supports. If you have a good level floor they will be very stable and will
support a bulldozer. I can almost sit on the floor under the car but not
quite. I mark the floor with a felt marker so that each year it only takes
me about 5 minutes to place them and drive the car up on them.
I have attached a couple of pictures of my car up on the ramps. Over the
winter I cleaned up the under carriage and did a bit of detailing.
--------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posts: 3 | From: Nova Scotia | Registered: Apr 2001 | IP: Logged

|IMG|http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/601_700/616/blk79.jpg |/IMG|
Sounds like a low cost solution even I could build...!!! Would like to see the pics whenever you can get them posted.
Jim O.
I can see where you'd need to put some lighting under there as a lot of it would get blocked from the sides, but the ramps sure look simple to make and certainly have a lot more ground clearance than I'm used to having.
Thanks for sharing!
|UPDATED|5/29/2002 12:03:33 PM|/UPDATED|

Jim O.
I can see where you'd need to put some lighting under there as a lot of it would get blocked from the sides, but the ramps sure look simple to make and certainly have a lot more ground clearance than I'm used to having.
Thanks for sharing!
|UPDATED|5/29/2002 12:03:33 PM|/UPDATED|

Moab, UT - USA
Joined: 12/4/2001
Posts: 633
Vette(s): 82 Collector Edition (*sold 12/2006)
Steve built his a few years ago when he wanted to do an oil change on his new C5. They've worked really well on his Vette and on mine and come in handy for other cars too. They are easy to build and totally portable and not too heavy. Even I can move them around. His are much simpler than the one's shown here, but basically the same.
Dar (darla)
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82 CE Registry # 82 (aka: VetteObsessed)
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NCM # 8647
Former Member
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Eastern part of, CT - USA
Joined: 1/29/2002
Posts: 319
Vette(s): White 73 convertible - 350/auto, A/C PS, PB, PW, leather, t/t, two tops
Also had a 69 t-top 20 years ago
I also saw a different set of drive-on ramps that were made with removable center sections to allow access to the car from the sides. Take a look over at corvetteforum.com. Joe
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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