My 1980 Corvette was pulling to the right when I pressed the pedal to stop. Upon inspection I found a newer caliper on the right, the original was still on the left. Someone had changed the right one awhile back without changing both. I figured I would change them both out with new hoses and pads. Getting the parts was an ordeal in itself. Autozone couldn't get the left one at all after sending me the right one. O'Reillys sent me two that were mis-matched with seals falling out. Bought 2 Centric ones on Rockauto, one came with bolts loose, the left one I couldn't get to bleed, I think there was an obstruction in it. Got the replacement today, got it bled, both left and right are bled with a stream of brke fluid coming out. Now the pedal goes darn near to the floor. It didn't do this before so I'm scratching my head. I've changed brakes my whole life and never had this happen. Anybody have any suggestions? 

Hi, "I" Have found on my 75' that you can't pump them. Just one push down. Open, close bleeder. One push down. Open, close bleeder. Repeate. Seemed to work for me. Pumping them only seemed to pull more air into the system. I even had a brake place try bleeding them to no avail. Just cost me money for no success. 

I'm with Mark on the not "pumping" method....but I have a pressure bleeder, so I don't have to deal with that anymore.

Years ago, I worked with a feller that was pretty sharp, and his method of bleeding(when replacing calipers/cylinders, masters) was to open the bleeder, and the pump the pedal(with the bleeder open) until solid fluid came out. THEN, he would start the pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, pedal up, then down, repeat as needed. It seems a little funky, but I've seen it reduce bleed time dramatically in some cases. 

I wouldn't even attempt it anymore without a pressure bleeder.....best $300 I ever spent...30 years ago. 

Hopefully this works - here's a link to a thread that shows the bleeder I made.  Scroll up and down through the thread for pics and chat about it. 

I'm guessing that the cost of the parts and pieces have gone up since I made it but I still have it and it works great.

I use this.  Brake fluid is cheap.  Buy lots.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-250-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5E1GS?ref_=ast_sto_dp

My wife and I sure appreciate the suggestions, she works from home (thankfully) and has to keep coming out to help me! So we thank everybody for the help. I never knew it was so tough to bleed Corvette brakes but it is apparently a thing. I kind of remember rebuilding the calipers on a '71 I had back around 1980. I must have gotten lucky then because I don't recall any problems. I wonder about the rebuild quality on the calipers I have now, the little "O" rings inside and the two halves bolted together and maybe not lined up, they seem a bit off. Do the rebuilders bench test them? There are no leaks but could they be sucking air? What a terrible design. Sorry wife but I'm going to to try the one push method, if that doesn't work then the pumping with the bleeder open method, lastly I will try a bleeder kit. All great ideas! I will post an update.

By myself today so no help pushing the brake pedal. Bought a Mightyvac bleeder and was able to get a good flow out of the left caliper. The right caliper I must've pumped the thing 50 times and still getting air with a sputtering of fluid. I haven't even had to put fluid in the master cylinder. Still no pedal. Alternately tried slowly pushing the pedal down and holding with a board, didn't work. As I push the pedal shouldn't there be a gurgling of the brake fluid in the master? It does nothing as I work the pedal. Is it possible the master cylinder is bad? Clogged? What about the proportioning valve, a video on Google says it could be tripped or something if brakes won't bleed. I'm about to buy the Motive pressure bleeder like F4Gary suggested and give it a try but I may have other problems. I just don't understand how the right caliper and line could have so much air, unless it is a bad rebuild and is sucking air somewhere. The brakes were decent before but the car pulled to the right when putting on the brakes so I assume the master is or was okay. 

My experience with the Mighty Vac is it can pull air in from the bleeder threads.

I would suggest bleeding the whole system.  There might be some residual air somewhere in the system.  The sequence that always worked the best for me was

1. right rear outside 
2. right rear inside 
3. left rear outside 
4. left rear inside 
5. right front outside
6. right front inside
7. left front outside
8. left front inside

Hi, Unless the 80s are different, my 72, and 75 only have one bleeder on the fronts. No inside, outside!