Topic: Newbie here
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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First off, I'm new here and wanted to introduce myself. I live in Arizona and although I've never owned a Vette, I've always liked them (especially C3s).
And lately I've been seriously considering getting myself a C3. I seem to lean toward the 1980 models for some reason, but am open to others.
Anyway, not being particulary well versed in C3 knowledge and lore, I was wondering if I might get some advice on what to look for (and look out for) when buying one. I'm not looking for a project or a high dollar show car either. Just a good solid driver I can enjoy.
So... any helpful hints?
Thanks!!!!
And lately I've been seriously considering getting myself a C3. I seem to lean toward the 1980 models for some reason, but am open to others.
Anyway, not being particulary well versed in C3 knowledge and lore, I was wondering if I might get some advice on what to look for (and look out for) when buying one. I'm not looking for a project or a high dollar show car either. Just a good solid driver I can enjoy.
So... any helpful hints?

Thanks!!!!
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Well you are limited in the 80's there are only 3 years to choose from,But they do have opening hatchbacks,the closest thing to a trunk in a C3,there are so many choices,Chrome bumpers,flat glassers,bubble backs,big blocks ,small blocks,sticks,autos,coupes,convertibles,.Have I totally confused you yet? C3s were built for 14 years the longest run for any model vette with the same body stile and there's still a lot of them out there.Don't buy the first one you look at,and don't rush into it,it takes time to find the RIGHT one,all C3s have little problems,and some big ones,but nothing you cant fix. there is a ton of info on this site,we think it is the best site on the web. If you have questions about anything somebody in here has an answer,welcome aboard and remember SHARKS RULE Ron 78






C3VR Lifetime Member #93
I;d widen my look for a 77 -82 but skip the 80. I have read and heard that 1980 is the most problem year for Vettes. firdt of all get a corvette book like the 1978 anniversay one that has all the factory info on vettes. also there are other posts of books too. . but for a few tips look under it for rust on the frame, or bent frame, body for any work done on it, wavy spots for example, miles on it, and known work history, matching vinn numbers and as you can see do your homework first before buying, look a lot to learn also. that is what we did. last of all cheers to you for joining this site. you will learn a lot here , I have for sure

|UPDATED|10/29/2003 7:17:53 PM|/UPDATED|


|UPDATED|10/29/2003 7:17:53 PM|/UPDATED|
Former Member
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Castle Rock, CO - USA
Joined: 4/21/2002
Posts: 179
Vette(s): 1973 T-Top
1993 Coupe
Hi Newbie!
It is definitly a good idea to widen your search. There are many differences among the C-3's and all of them are potentially to your like or dislike.
I agree that you should buy the most car that you can afford. I have seen $3K Corvettes end up costing well more than their finished value. I have also seen $10K cars worth $13K+. Try to find the most bang for your buck. Whatever you find the most important thing in my opinion is that it is complete. Missing parts are very expensive. Worn parts can be lived with until you have the money to replace or repair them.
Don't make the common mistake of finding a running driving car, bring it home, and then start a frame off resto. I have bought several unfinished restos for a song because the owner was tired of it sitting in his garage and the wifes car sits outside. (It happens alot!)
Drive it and fix it as you go. That way it keeps your interest and doesn't seem to cost alot without return.
Have fun!
Alex
It is definitly a good idea to widen your search. There are many differences among the C-3's and all of them are potentially to your like or dislike.
I agree that you should buy the most car that you can afford. I have seen $3K Corvettes end up costing well more than their finished value. I have also seen $10K cars worth $13K+. Try to find the most bang for your buck. Whatever you find the most important thing in my opinion is that it is complete. Missing parts are very expensive. Worn parts can be lived with until you have the money to replace or repair them.
Don't make the common mistake of finding a running driving car, bring it home, and then start a frame off resto. I have bought several unfinished restos for a song because the owner was tired of it sitting in his garage and the wifes car sits outside. (It happens alot!)
Drive it and fix it as you go. That way it keeps your interest and doesn't seem to cost alot without return.
Have fun!

Alex
Former Member
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HINGHAM, MA - USA
Joined: 9/5/2003
Posts: 36
Vette(s): 1970 COUPE - LS5 454 - AUTO - A/C,PS,PB,TILT. WHITE WITH RED INT. PRISTINE - LIKE THE DAY IT WAS BORN. (Previously owned a White '76. Sold it in 2000.)
Just some simple advice. Try to talk to former owners, who usually love to talk about their old vettes (both good and bad experiences). Then try to speak with a mechanic who has worked on the car. Find as much history, ie repair receipts as possible. If you can find a few people who think the car was a good one, then it probably is. Finally have your own mechanic go over the car to be sure. Remember even small parts can be expensive.
But, as you drive it home, your adrenaline will flow and you'll be so excited like you will with no other car.
Happy hunting!
Kevin
Kevin
But, as you drive it home, your adrenaline will flow and you'll be so excited like you will with no other car.
Happy hunting!

Kevin
Kevin
1970 COUPE - LS5 454 - AUTO - A/C,PS,PB,TILT. WHITE WITH RED INT. PRISTINE - LIKE THE DAY IT WAS BORN. (Previously owned a White '76. Sold it in 2000.) |IMG|http://www.C3VR.com/member_uploads/3901_4000/3925/70vettewhite1.jpg |/IMG|

Frederick, MD - USA
Joined: 2/20/2003
Posts: 548
Vette(s): Frederick County Corvette Club (Maryland)
Tan 64 365 Hp Conv 4 sp
Red 72 4 sp Conv ..running a '68 327
Blue 76 Coupe L 48 4 sp
White 79 Coupe L 82 auto
Silver 98 Conv, 6 sp
35th Anniv '88 vette
Must be my night for repling to messages....
First of all welcome ...
I have to agree with the others who advised you to buy the best car for your budget... BUT my point in repling is that
any Corvette from 1974 thru 1982 is NOT really going to
cost you much to own for say a (5) year period... No matter what you pay for "your" car you can expect to be able to sell it for what you paid for it 5 years from now... ESPECIALLY if it is not a project car that you became upside down on.
I own 3 Sharks..72 76 and a 79...along with a 64 and a 95
One of the other posters advised against buying an 80 because of all the problems 80's had... All I can say is BULSHIT !!!!! The 80 did start the weight reduction program ..changing to many aluminum parts like brackets for the alternator etc...BUT in my 20+ years in the Corvette hobby I have never heard of any specific problem areas unique to the 80...
My major dislike on my 79 is the my inability to clean the inside of the rear window without scheduling a few trips to the chiropractor after doing so..other then
that is has been a darn good car for the 20 years I have owned it...
Rust is a problem in the windshield post area and in the radiator support area on most older sharks..the radiator area is an easy fix the windshield area is NOT... plus
the floor on the later C'3 are metal and can and do rust...the only other area where I voiew rust to be a major problem (other then the frame) is the support brace right in front of the hood abd above the headlights
if you see pimples you have a support that is rusting and
it is not easy to fix without spending money for body work and repaint...the suport itself is cheap...removing it is a bitch..replacing it is not a big deal..but you still have to grind down the pimples and repaint..
Over all these are CHEAP cars to own.. (why do you think I own 3...lol) insurance is dirt chaep tires are cheap...they are not depreciating like a rock.. and they are fun to drive....
Bob Griffiths
First of all welcome ...
I have to agree with the others who advised you to buy the best car for your budget... BUT my point in repling is that
any Corvette from 1974 thru 1982 is NOT really going to
cost you much to own for say a (5) year period... No matter what you pay for "your" car you can expect to be able to sell it for what you paid for it 5 years from now... ESPECIALLY if it is not a project car that you became upside down on.
I own 3 Sharks..72 76 and a 79...along with a 64 and a 95
One of the other posters advised against buying an 80 because of all the problems 80's had... All I can say is BULSHIT !!!!! The 80 did start the weight reduction program ..changing to many aluminum parts like brackets for the alternator etc...BUT in my 20+ years in the Corvette hobby I have never heard of any specific problem areas unique to the 80...
My major dislike on my 79 is the my inability to clean the inside of the rear window without scheduling a few trips to the chiropractor after doing so..other then
that is has been a darn good car for the 20 years I have owned it...
Rust is a problem in the windshield post area and in the radiator support area on most older sharks..the radiator area is an easy fix the windshield area is NOT... plus
the floor on the later C'3 are metal and can and do rust...the only other area where I voiew rust to be a major problem (other then the frame) is the support brace right in front of the hood abd above the headlights
if you see pimples you have a support that is rusting and
it is not easy to fix without spending money for body work and repaint...the suport itself is cheap...removing it is a bitch..replacing it is not a big deal..but you still have to grind down the pimples and repaint..
Over all these are CHEAP cars to own.. (why do you think I own 3...lol) insurance is dirt chaep tires are cheap...they are not depreciating like a rock.. and they are fun to drive....
Bob Griffiths
Bob
64,72 & 98 Corvette Ragtops
76 & 79 & qa 88 ANC Corvette Coupes
Click on any image for larger view!
Former Member
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Castle Rock, CO - USA
Joined: 4/21/2002
Posts: 179
Vette(s): 1973 T-Top
1993 Coupe
I have to agree with Bob about the price of the shark being cheaper than other vintages. Right noe you can get some older c-4s cheaper in purchase price, but repair can get very expensive. As an example my 93 cost $1500 to replace the clutch. This is becasue the flywheel is a dual mass type and cannot be resurfaced safely. The geometry changes enough to create problems. My 73 cost $450 for the same procedure.
The only "expesive " repairs for the C-3 is in the rear drive train. Compared to other cars of the vintage the Corvette rear end is expensive and can cost a couple thousand to rebuild.
Have fun
Alex
The only "expesive " repairs for the C-3 is in the rear drive train. Compared to other cars of the vintage the Corvette rear end is expensive and can cost a couple thousand to rebuild.
Have fun

Alex
Former Member
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Fountain Valley, CA - USA
Joined: 9/11/2003
Posts: 407
Vette(s): 1969 Daytona Yellow Coupe - ZZ4/4 speed, Hurst shifter, Griffin aluminum radiator w/ Dual Spals, March Serpentine Pulley kit, Hookers with STS Racing Baffles, VB&P Suspension bits, 17" AR Hopsters, L-88 Hood
I think the only real downside to the '80 in comparison to other later C3's is if you gat a California car with the 305 under the hood.
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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